Print

[CB Onyx]

Great tutorial !!

I did the x-clamp replacement and the 360 powered up fine.
only one problem...when i touch the video connector..the 360 reboots..sometime giving no screen but only sound.
Does this mean i have to let it overheat first (towel trick) ?..i did not do this after the x-clamp replacement...just replaced the x-clamps, put everything back together and powered up the the 360..

and 1 more question...is the replacement just a temporary fix...or can i expect it to last ?

[grim_d]

QUOTE(RBJTech @ Apr 29 2007, 11:08 AM)

Shouldn't be necessary - if the fix needs any type of heating, then it's the board flexing that's making the fix, not the X clamp replacement (= bad, as it will fail again).

As I think somebody has already said - you are actually masking the results by heating things - if you get the 3ROL initially after doing the clamp replacement - then you aint fixed it !

well i will be trying it as soon as i get my 3rlod box through from fleabay. No doubt i'll screw up and post here

[mzone]

hows everyone getting on since they used this method\?

i have 2 360s that i used RBJtech's Method strange they seem to run for like 30 mins theren freeze then go to 3 rol?

if i leave them off for about 15 mins to cool down they boot back up again.

i have even done the 12v 360 fan mod so they run faster on both 360,s .



This post has been edited by mzone: Apr 29 2007, 02:19 PM

[RBJTech]

QUOTE(mzone @ Apr 29 2007, 02:18 PM)

hows everyone getting on since they used this method\?

i have 2 360s that i used RBJtech's Method strange they seem to run for like 30 mins theren freeze then go to 3 rol?

if i leave them off for about 15 mins to cool down they boot back up again.

i have even done the 12v 360 fan mod so they run faster on both 360,s .

I've heard of freezing after a set peroid of time, but never the 3ROL come up again during play - As you say with the fans running @ 12v I doubt you're problem is heat - although have you done any other mods - the most important is the airflow divider ?  Also have a tweek with the nut torque - you just need to spring washers lightly tightened - not tight as this defeats the object of having the spring washer in the first place ..

I hope this helps ..

PS - Divider tut in the FAQ and on my home page ...

[booker]

QUOTE(mzone @ Apr 29 2007, 02:18 PM)

hows everyone getting on since they used this method\?

i have 2 360s that i used RBJtech's Method strange they seem to run for like 30 mins theren freeze then go to 3 rol?

if i leave them off for about 15 mins to cool down they boot back up again.

i have even done the 12v 360 fan mod so they run faster on both 360,s .

you may need to tight those nuts a bit more. Had this problem.. before i tight the bolts, after that... is working perfeclty.

the other thing you could be experienceing, could be some loose solderings, if that the case you should overheat the system for a while to get thos loose solderings solder by themself.

Toweltrick will do...

[RBJTech]

Update on a console from hell - fixed on Sunday 29Apr - (I hope).

Friend of a friend console (yea I know, word is getting around..) 3ROL, so I try my X-Clamp fix (standard), doesn't boot.

3 washers - boots but locks within seconds - checkboard.
2 washers - doesn't boot.
1 washer - doesn't boot.
GPU loose - doesn't boot.
CPU loose - doesn't boot.

NO washers - pressing hard on the centre of the GPU - boots ... wtf  
3 washers - pressing hard on the centre of the GPU - boots ...

So with the board 'flat' it doesn't want to know with corner pressure - so how do I apply pressure to the die from the centre (and don't say X clamp   ) as I wanted it to press down / not up...

My solution was to cut a 1mm thick piece of aluminium to cover the two dies (1cm x 2cm ish), heatpaste both sides + the normal heatsink and then bolt it tight with 3 washers per bolt.

3 washers = height of GPU case & die - so my theory is by putting a 1mm 'shim' on the die, I am forcing the board to flex 'down' (it's held 'level' on all the corners by the bolts attached to the case remember).

Worked a charm - I've given it a workout in COD2 for the last few hours - zero lockups of problems.  I'm going to give it a few more days before posting another success in the polls - but it's looking promising ...

I'll update my tutorial with another option if she turns out good ..





 

[kidman64]

great news:) could you please add some photos of that console and method you did?
i'll try to bring my console from the dead in a few days and i'd like to have as much information as possible.
thanks in advance

[mzone]

yeah can you post some pics of this RBJTech.

[ydgmms]

QUOTE(RBJTech @ Apr 29 2007, 03:46 PM)

Update on a console from hell - fixed on Sunday 29Apr - (I hope).

Friend of a friend console (yea I know, word is getting around..) 3ROL, so I try my X-Clamp fix (standard), doesn't boot.

3 washers - boots but locks within seconds - checkboard.
2 washers - doesn't boot.
1 washer - doesn't boot.
GPU loose - doesn't boot.
CPU loose - doesn't boot.

NO washers - pressing hard on the centre of the GPU - boots ... wtf  
3 washers - pressing hard on the centre of the GPU - boots ...

So with the board 'flat' it doesn't want to know with corner pressure - so how do I apply pressure to the die from the centre (and don't say X clamp   ) as I wanted it to press down / not up...

My solution was to cut a 1mm thick piece of aluminium to cover the two dies (1cm x 2cm ish), heatpaste both sides + the normal heatsink and then bolt it tight with 3 washers per bolt.

3 washers = height of GPU case & die - so my theory is by putting a 1mm 'shim' on the die, I am forcing the board to flex 'down' (it's held 'level' on all the corners by the bolts attached to the case remember).

Worked a charm - I've given it a workout in COD2 for the last few hours - zero lockups of problems.  I'm going to give it a few more days before posting another success in the polls - but it's looking promising ...

I'll update my tutorial with another option if she turns out good ..

Did you notice if maybe the GPU heatsink was bent? I read someone else had a GPU heatsink that was extremely bent (due to the xclamps) and he shaved it down so it was flat again.

Maybe it was just bent and didn't provide uniform pressure?

Also, what I've been doing is adding small pieces of like sticky backed felt to the corners of the gpu and cpu for so the heatsink provides pressure uniformly around the entire surface of the GPU/CPU. Good/bad idea?



like that..

[grim_d]

QUOTE(ydgmms @ Apr 30 2007, 07:05 AM)

Also, what I've been doing is adding small pieces of like sticky backed felt to the corners of the gpu and cpu for so the heatsink provides pressure uniformly around the entire surface of the GPU/CPU. Good/bad idea?
like that..

cant be a bad idea i would think, maybe ill pick some up when i go to get my parts today.

[grim_d]

well, as usual, B&Q sucked.. they had everything bar the 4mm flat washers, so i picked up some m4 flat washers from homebase, hope they suit well enough, cant wait to get this box through.

[Carkus]

Thanks RBJtech and Lawdawg0931 for both your tutorials.

I read both, and performed the mod over the weekend. (mounting method as per Lawdawg0931's guide).

So far its all working well.

I've taken pic's of the whole process, but dont have anywhere to upload my guide/pictures to. Anyone got any webspace I can post it to? PM me.

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=MPSX8P2H
May have exceeded download limit already, as im not a member...

Thanks again.

RBJtech: in regards to you needing to apply presure the the centre of the GPU from above, you could lap the heatsink, with a very small increase in height in the middle of the heatsink, in turn applying most of the pressure there. (probably harder to do with the GPU heatsink than the CPU heatsink...)

[ptr.exe]

QUOTE(RBJTech @ Apr 29 2007, 11:08 AM)

Shouldn't be necessary - if the fix needs any type of heating, then it's the board flexing that's making the fix, not the X clamp replacement (= bad, as it will fail again).

As I think somebody has already said - you are actually masking the results by heating things - if you get the 3ROL initially after doing the clamp replacement - then you aint fixed it !

In that case mine is not fixed. After X-clamp replacement, it still gave 3ROL, so I let it overheat, waited for two minutes and turned it off letting it cool.

It's been running fine for a week now though  

I'll update if it dies in the next week.  

[compuguy01]

Well, I have made some progress w/ my 3 red lights.  I adjusted the nuts, it seemed to work after loosening the nuts not tightening.  It took alot of tries to get it right but finally after letting it overheat numorous times I was able to get the system going.  It lasted 2 days and the first day I streamed music all day to give it a test and didnt have one problem.  2nd day played Oblivion for about 3 hours, then my son popped in Viva Piniata and the system froze up after about 20 min of play time.   (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)  Well looks like im taking it apart again tonight.  I was thinking of trying the towel trick too.  Oh also the Thermal compound I used was Antec Silver no Arctic should that matter?

This post has been edited by compuguy01: Apr 30 2007, 08:06 PM

[ptr.exe]

QUOTE(compuguy01 @ Apr 30 2007, 08:04 PM)

Oh also the Thermal compound I used was Antec Silver no Arctic should that matter?

Doesnt matter.

The difference between most thermal pastes of decent quality is a few degrees, if that.