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Author Topic: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method  (Read 17708 times)

booker

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #105 on: April 30, 2007, 08:18:00 PM »

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 1 2007, 03:04 AM) View Post

All I know is that several people have had working Xbox's for weeks (close to a month now) after removing the X clamps. I fixed two, but I have a box that continued to give me problems after I did the X-clamp mod. Then I did the fan shroud mod, then the 12v mod, then put heatsinks on the southbridge & front ram chips, then cut a hole in the bottom case & put a 12v fan there.... it still gave me problems. Sometimes the flexing apparently caused enough damage to the BMG process that only a professional reflow can help. If you feel that you've done all you can to your 360, & you still are getting red lights or freezing - at least give RBJTech's method a go next, to see if that holds things together better for you. If all else fails, send it to a professional for a proper reflow.


well thanks.. i won´t go that far ahead. I´m still having my system up n running after doing this x clamp replacement.

I just want to be sure with you and with other people who tried this mod, if my actions were correct or if i did wrong on overheating the system with the towel trick.

Also i wanted to learn how this X clamp work and if i had the idea/concept right.

Because so far.. my system is going in the right track.

Let hope it stay there smile.gif
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langnao

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #106 on: April 30, 2007, 08:29:00 PM »

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 1 2007, 12:47 AM) *

The X-clamps were probably the reason the BMG-style soldering didn't hold in the first place, but once damage has been done (ie compromised connections) - then removing the X clamps won't fix the damage done. It just keeps the board from flexing. That's why some people have to overheat for 2 minutes, that's why some people have to do the towel trick, that's why still others have to have a professional BMG reflow service. Everyones damage isn't going to be the same. For most, just removing the flexing tends to make good connections again. For others - you just gotta find what works for you....


Hi, I believe it is a couple of things acting together. First of all is the X-clamp that is not the best way to mount a heat sink. Not to mention low quality mobo and also heat dissipating design of the box inside....

Like you said, each person damage is different and everyone operating environment is different too. Thus some will have better result than others ...
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Frostbite

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #107 on: April 30, 2007, 08:36:00 PM »

I bought a broken 360 with the 3 rings of light in hopes of fixing it to get a cheap working 360 and this tutorial of yours made it possible. I had no luck whatsoever with the heat gun trick but this did the job. Thank you for sharing this valuable piece of information.
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Carkus

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #108 on: April 30, 2007, 09:07:00 PM »

Updated URL for my guide on doing this fix, with pictures.

http://users.tpg.com...0FIX-Carkus.pdf

Thanks.
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RiPpN-N-TrIppN

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #109 on: April 30, 2007, 09:51:00 PM »

ok well i just went out and bought the shite needed to do this following dvsone's part listing coz im a Aussie
the parts where as follows
2 x Dan's Premium C/S MT Screws & Nuts Size 3/16x1/2 (Qty: 5 per packet)
2 x Zenith Flat Washers 3/16 (Qty: 25 per packet)
i found the washers ok but i coudlnt find the MT Screws the dude in bunnings didnt no what they where
but he did point me to these
IPB Image
can some one please tell me if these are the correct ones
cheers in advance
Rip
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dvsone

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #110 on: April 30, 2007, 10:24:00 PM »

QUOTE

ok well i just went out and bought the shite needed to do this following dvsone\'s part listing coz im a Aussie
the parts where as follows
2 x Dan\'s Premium C/S MT Screws & Nuts Size 3/16x1/2 (Qty: 5 per packet)
2 x Zenith Flat Washers 3/16 (Qty: 25 per packet)
i found the washers ok but i coudlnt find the MT Screws the dude in bunnings didnt no what they where
but he did point me to these
IPB Image
can some one please tell me if these are the correct ones
cheers in advance
Rip
Those screws aren\'t right. I tried those, and they are too long. I got mine from Bunnings Southport QLD.

Here\'s the serial number for the Dan\'s Premium MT Screws I used: 329437 000317

Best of luck.
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RiPpN-N-TrIppN

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #111 on: April 30, 2007, 10:40:00 PM »

couldnt i just put a few extra washes on the bottom of the board to fill in the extra space ??
if so any ideas on how many i would need
im stuck at work atm so i dont have anything to compare it too
cheers
Rip
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booker

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #112 on: May 01, 2007, 02:39:00 AM »

QUOTE(Carkus @ May 1 2007, 04:43 AM) View Post

Updated URL for my guide on doing this fix, with pictures.

http://users.tpg.com...0FIX-Carkus.pdf

Thanks.


Excelent Guide!
I wish this were available when i did the X clamp smile.gif
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dvsone

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #113 on: May 01, 2007, 05:02:00 AM »

QUOTE

couldnt i just put a few extra washes on the bottom of the board to fill in the extra space ??
if so any ideas on how many i would need
im stuck at work atm so i dont have anything to compare it too
cheers
Rip

See image below. Zenith of the left and Dans Premium on the right. There is quite a big difference between the 2 screws. Because Dans is counter sunken the actual length of the screw area is only about 8mm, where as the Zenith is 12mm.

IPB Image

Using Dans:

On the CPU: 3 washers on top and 3 on the bottom
On the GPU: 2 washers on top and 3 on the bottom

You would probably need something crazy like 6 or 7 washers on the bottom to make the Zenith work. And its probable the screws are too long and will push the motherboard to far off the bottom of the case.

Heres a picture of Dans packaging if you want to have another look for them at Bunnings.

IPB Image

Or you could cut the screws to size like Carkus did. Check out his tutorial.

QUOTE

Updated URL for my guide on doing this fix, with pictures.

http://users.tpg.com...0FIX-Carkus.pdf

Thanks.


Great work Carkus.
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lawdawg0931

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #114 on: May 01, 2007, 09:03:00 AM »

QUOTE(RiPpN-N-TrIppN @ May 1 2007, 12:16 AM) View Post

couldnt i just put a few extra washes on the bottom of the board to fill in the extra space ??
if so any ideas on how many i would need
im stuck at work atm so i dont have anything to compare it too
cheers
Rip


Also I don't think those will screw straight into the threads in the heatsink.
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Bravoexo

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #115 on: May 01, 2007, 09:09:00 AM »

QUOTE(Carkus @ May 1 2007, 04:43 AM) *

Updated URL for my guide on doing this fix, with pictures.

http://users.tpg.com.au/adsla7hl/XBOX%20360%203RLOD%20FIX-Carkus.pdf

Thanks.


Question, so the motherboard ain't connected to the metal case anymore on those 8 points?  Isn't that dangerous?  (I remember that board flexes quite a bit when I held it in my hand with the heatsinks on.)
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Bravoexo

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #116 on: May 01, 2007, 09:58:00 AM »

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 29 2007, 05:12 PM) View Post

@Bravoexo
I wouldn't deviate from the tutorial (other than the # of washers just on top of the mobo) as measurements have been checked & rechecked - which is CRITICALLY important. wink.gif


Hi lawdawg,  

Great tutorial btw.  Do you think my assumption on the washers I got is acceptable?

IPB Image

Technically, the point end of the original HS foot, up to the point where the X clamp latches on, is equal to the height of my washers.

I even tried doublle washers, a set on top of the board, but this time, the HS's don't get even an ounce of contact with the cpu's/gpu's.  Without a 2nd set of washers,  I was able to make it work  (bought a stick of AS5 yesterday, and after 25 games...my box is alive still. (but it's only been 2 days though. I'll observe some more.
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FrostyTheSnowman

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #117 on: May 01, 2007, 10:06:00 AM »

QUOTE(Bravoexo @ May 1 2007, 09:45 AM) View Post

Question, so the motherboard ain't connected to the metal case anymore on those 8 points?  Isn't that dangerous?  (I remember that board flexes quite a bit when I held it in my hand with the heatsinks on.)


If you use the EXACT parts and part numbers from Lowes that are in his tutorial, you will notice that the bolts themselves actually make contact with the shielding and still support the board just fine.

If you use any other type of part or part number, it may not make contact with the shielding.
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King Khan

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #118 on: May 01, 2007, 10:17:00 AM »

First off I want to thank Lawdawg and everyone in this forum! Its nice to know I was not the only one suffering from the RROL. I bought my 360 in Canada in September 2006, its DOM is April 2006 - so its just turned One. Sadly its DOB and Day of Death were exactly a year apart. Here's the kicker I live in Kenya now! Yes Kenya - so even if I had my warranty it would cost me probably twice the console price to ship it to the States or Canada.

Anyways I was suffering from video freezes (even at the dash) before I got the RROL error 0102. I thought I was screwed - I did not want to use the heat gun; tried the towel trick - but I did not want to burn the insides of the the box - its pretty hot and humid here! I came across the eraser mod but I figured it would be only temporary - so I tried the x-clamp.

Finding the right screws and washers was easy - find a torx t6/7 was a whole different story. We don't get AS5 here - in fact I doubt anyone does any real PC modding here - so I used some other thermal paste - the white kind; it came with my new PC fan so I figured it would not be half bad. To the point, I recall earlier in the forum people had trouble keeping the screws in place when trying to screw them into the heat sinks. So what I did was kept the screws in place by using the x-clamp itself - I placed the screws on a table (or a board of some kind) - I know some else suggested using a book - so some credit goes to that poster - and I aligned the screws using the x-clamp. Once they were in place I took off the x-clamp from the screws and placed the board on the table ensuring that all the screws were in the mobo. I then moved it mobo to the edge of the table so that one screw was exposed so that I could tighten it snug. I repeated with all the screws and then turned the mobo vertical and tightened the screws tight. As you can see there is some use for the x-clamp - LOL.

Then I followed the Lawdawg's tutorial to a tee - and viola no RROL! I was so excited. Once I had done this I  tried playing but I kept getting freezes - even at the dash after a while. So all my joy vanished - I was so tired - it took me so long to clean the original paste on the xbox - speaking of which - what a half assed job eh?

So I tried tightening the screws - fyi - if you are using a flat head screw driver (depending on your screws) - use a slightly larger one - it gives better grip and torque; but to no avail.

Now I was frustrated and feeling gutted - so I came back to the forum and read up a storm - I remember reading that adjusting the washers between the GPU heatsink and mobo could curb graphical freezes...

I removed the nylon washers and used only the metal ones ensuring that the washers were not touching anything on either side of the heatsink. I powered on the box - and behold it was not freezing; but a few minutes in I got 2 RL - Overheating. I took the mobo out and tightened the GPU screws using a larger screwdriver, put the board back in and crossed my fingers and toes.

The box worked. No freezing. No overheating. No RROL. Mind you I have only played PGR3 on 1080i for a total of 2 hours over 2 days. I was also running my mp3 player during the game.

I have a stand fan blowing a steady horizontal flow of air across the back of the xbox - that way all the hot air blowing out of the console is quickly vented away from the box. I have not had an intense gaming session yet - but so far so good - to be honest I still feel that the RROL is lingering each time I power the box on - mocking me - laughing...

But anyways - mark me as a success - 2 hours over 2 days so far is way better than RROL gathering dust.
Thank you Lawdawg - thank you all. I will keep you posted on my progress. Btw apologies for the long post - I like writing and I am new to this forum - so I want to make sure everyone who helped me is acknowledged!

Safe guys and thanks again!
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jameswalter

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Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
« Reply #119 on: May 01, 2007, 10:46:00 AM »

QUOTE(Bravoexo @ May 1 2007, 09:34 AM) View Post

Hi lawdawg,  

Great tutorial btw.  Do you think my assumption on the washers I got is acceptable?

IPB Image

Technically, the point end of the original HS foot, up to the point where the X clamp latches on, is equal to the height of my washers.

I even tried doublle washers, a set on top of the board, but this time, the HS's don't get even an ounce of contact with the cpu's/gpu's.  Without a 2nd set of washers,  I was able to make it work  (bought a stick of AS5 yesterday, and after 25 games...my box is alive still. (but it's only been 2 days though. I'll observe some more.

I think your screws are too long.  You can see that the original posts sit flush with the shielding after being screwed in.  You will be flexing the motherboard out because of this.  I suggest you find the right size screws, or cut those down a little.
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