Topic: The "official" X-clamp Replacement Success Thread (Read 2329 times)

angrypond · « **Reply #30 on:** November 29, 2007, 10:11:00 AM »

WORKED FOR ME IM SO HAPYY (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

i never thought id be so happy to see those green lights

1.fixed 3rol error 110

InFaMoUs RooKi3 · « **Reply #31 on:** November 29, 2007, 12:14:00 PM »

1. Fixed the 3RLOD, No issues at all now, No freezes, works fine

Used MkIII method.

On first boot I had the 3RLOD. I unplugged the console and loosened all 8 screws and plugged it back in. The plan was to push down on each screw as suggested and I was lucky that the first screw I pushed worked. I now have 4 green lights and everything seems good, I tightened the screws by holding the screwdriver with my fingers (rather than the normal palm grip) and twisted the screws tight without forcing too much.

I've only tested it for 2 hours on GRAW but am going to put it through its paces with Mass Effect, will let you all know if something goes wrong.

Btw I'm from Australia and I found all my parts at Bunnings with the exception of the thermal paste which I bought from Jaycar.

Parts used:

Flat washer (5mm) pack of 50 around $3
Metric Screw (5mm x 15mm) pack of 12 around $4

I used 3 washers under the m/board, 1 for the CPU and 2 for GPU. The process was pretty easy, it helps if you're handy with this type of thing otherwise it will be difficult.

THANK YOU FOR THIS GREAT FIX!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

SimianEtza · « **Reply #32 on:** November 29, 2007, 03:55:00 PM »

Fixed the 3RLOD. No issues at all now, no freezing, works fine. =D

bookem123 · « **Reply #33 on:** November 29, 2007, 07:04:00 PM »

I used 16mm bolts for all 8 locations. I added a flat washer on the bottom side, under the head, for the 4 CPU bolts. On the inside of the case I used one flat washer and a drilled out 5mm nut. On top of the board I used 3 nylon washers per position. This worked great and I have not had any problems. My error code was 0102.

larsenmash · « **Reply #34 on:** November 29, 2007, 07:15:00 PM »

worked for 2 weeks after using lawdawgs method, but went back to rrod today. Im just glad it happened now versus later, as I had it for sale and A guy was suposed to pic it up tonight.

zippy101 · « **Reply #35 on:** November 30, 2007, 04:34:00 AM »

Fixed the 3RLOD. No issues at all now, no freezing, works fine

Another success using RBJtech's MKIII method (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

micheal777 · « **Reply #36 on:** November 30, 2007, 02:27:00 PM »

Hello!

Results on an $80 console that I had bought off ebay and repaired using the MkIII method:

2. Freeze

2 blinking lights immediately after (both on the left side) procedure

1 freeze (might have actually been the game Assassin's Creed that caused this)

Console has been running for over two weeks with up to 2-3 hours of daily gameplay/dvd viewing with no real issues yet, other than loud fans while ingame.

Honestly, so far it appears to be a great fix. I'll report again in a couple of weeks with any progress / deterioration.

ghengistahn · « **Reply #37 on:** February 02, 2020, 11:04:00 PM »

Just wanted to say you guys are the SHIT!!!!!! fixed and everything is working i did a mixbetween both methods... AWESOME!!!!!

Thanks

Dev

greggy · « **Reply #38 on:** February 03, 2020, 12:12:00 PM »

To give hope to all ROD owners. This is my story...

Got a new XBox360 with a mobile phone subscription. Contents: Samsung MS-28. Bought Centronics SATA PCI card. Flashed my drive to Xtreme 4.2. Played not so often (30 yrs. and a busy job) and not too long per session. Some day, after not using the 360 for games (sometimes as DVD player), I got the ROD. F*CK!

Googled somewhat, saw the video's about x-clamp and decided to fix it myself. I did not feel ok with the towell trick. So, opened up the case. Bought some torx screwdrivers and some bolts and plastic washers. Removed the x-clamp and heatsinks. New paste on the chips. Tightened the nuts with washers without x-clamp (the motherboard was a bit under pressure, firm but not too firm...). Booted the xbox for the first time again (without fans). Still the ROD. F*CK again...!

Baked the 360 for about 3 minutes (without any fans). Whow... this thing is like an oven. In two minutes you cannot touch the heatsinks anymore. Let it cool off for about 10 minutes.
Then I put everything together. The nuts were too high so all the connectors were about 1,5 mm too high. But all connectors are fixed to the casing so this was no problem (more tension.... great! :-) Before closing all of the case; check it. And.... it worked flawless!! Superb. Werkt als een tiet.

Flashed DVD to 1.3, put all of it together and we're back in business... Hope this will make you feel better....

BTW: parts: out of my head: I used M5 x 10mm bolts for both heatsinks with a M5 spring washer on the mainboard bottom side. On the top side I used one M5 plastic ring (about 1mm high). Do not tighten the spring washer fully but tighten is quite hard (the spring washer was not fully, so medium, pressed!). Used it for both processors with new thermal paste. Costed me about 2 euro's. The torx, size 8 or something, was 6 euro. Good luck!

This post has been edited by greggy: Yesterday, 08:18 PM

xlinkx · « **Reply #39 on:** February 03, 2020, 12:36:00 PM »

How long does this last for? I've tried alot of ways to fix it but the 3 redlights always come back.

greggy · « **Reply #40 on:** February 03, 2020, 12:53:00 PM »

I played a couple of days now with sessions up to 5 hours. Not a single sign of breaking. I should mention that the box now is vertical and stands free. So lots of cold air available. Before it operated in a closet (dressoir) with the back plate removed. This was too hot for the 360 but was a lot quiter.

Did you try 'baking it'? In the beginning my 360 also still had the 3 ROD lights and would not boot. Make sure the paste is spread evenly (I used some crappy old shit) and tightened good enough. After baking, let it cool off and tighten the bolts again. Not too firm, but enough...

Good luck!

bigolyt · « **Reply #41 on:** December 11, 2007, 01:02:00 AM »

So I'm in the process of the replacement and had a question...

I read about solder points becoming "unsoldered" after time? What is it referring to? The GPU just SITS on the CPU right? Nothing is SOLDERED so to speak.

This is the reasoning from the guys over at x-clamp-fix.com which doesnt really make sense?

"The basic reason we found out is that the metal housing of the 360 is not straight bended by production. The bended area is exactly there where the GPU sits. That means if you screw in the Mainboard it will exactly bended like the metal case. This mechanical tension to the mainboard will break the soldered grid ball connection ealier or later. The original X-clamp does not produce enough pressure to the heat sink to keep the mainboard straight connected to the GPU. The original X-clamp is made of ordinary steel what really doesn`t help in this case. It lost pressure in a few months. The only steel that delivers enough pressure power is spring steel"

What Im asking is HOW this fix works and why?

Munition quality · « **Reply #42 on:** December 11, 2007, 02:01:00 PM »

Error ecode 0102 now sorted thanks ( well so far)

Supremespeed · « **Reply #43 on:** December 11, 2007, 08:43:00 PM »

Just did the X-Clamp fix today. Works 100% took only 3 hours and the 360 has run for 9 hours straight with no problems.

dpbmt · « **Reply #44 on:** December 12, 2007, 11:08:00 AM »

QUOTE

1.# Fixed the 3RLOD. No issues at all now, no freezing, works fine

Had error 0102, fixed with RBJtech's X-clamp MkIII method.

Author Topic: The "official" X-clamp Replacement Success Thread (Read 2329 times)