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Author Topic: Tutorial For "x" Clamp Replacement  (Read 3141 times)

makaveli86

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Tutorial For "x" Clamp Replacement
« Reply #225 on: April 15, 2007, 08:20:00 PM »

DaniloMQ, you used lawdawgs method? and everything seems to be working fine? interesting....now i did RBJT's, jus curious on what the actual difference is between the two
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RBJTech

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« Reply #226 on: April 16, 2007, 12:54:00 AM »

QUOTE(makaveli86 @ Apr 16 2007, 02:51 AM) View Post

DaniloMQ, you used lawdawgs method? and everything seems to be working fine? interesting....now i did RBJT's, jus curious on what the actual difference is between the two


Fundamentally they are the same thing - they certainly use the same method of fixing the actual problem - ie squeeze the cpu/gpu and heatsink together on the corners rather than the single central point.

The differences are that mine fix's the above points to the main case also, whilst lawdawgs doesn't.  I don't think there is a 'best' option tbh from the responses on the threads, I think mine gives a structural advantage if you use the 360 on it's side , but if you sit it flat, then the advantage is less.  It also allows minute movement which may or may not help things to sit flat.  Lawdawgs main advantage is it's very simple and reversable also.  BOTH need a little experimentation with the number of washers due to the variying thicknesses of washers etc out there but as I said about, they are both good fixes, either works great as shown in the sticky 'poll' thread. smile.gif
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naoneo

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« Reply #227 on: April 16, 2007, 07:31:00 AM »

Fixed, was getting 3RL on power-on at one point, scrapped those crappy x-clamps and it works fine now!

As a note, i'm in the uk so i used these parts, from B&Q :

Flat washer 5mm (Code AVF-064968)
Machine screws 5mm 0.8mm x 30mm (Code AVF-069871)

The screws were fine for the larger heat sinc, but i had to dremel the heads off the flat heat sinc level with the top of the heat sinc to install the dvd drive, the B+Q didn't actually have anything smaller than 30mm in 5mm-0.8mm at the one i went to but im sure they'll probably have the right size elsewhere?
The washers however are spot on, i used one on the underside, and two on the top between motherboard and heat sinc.

Thanks a mill anyway, seems to work fine since doing the fix smile.gif
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DarrenR

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« Reply #228 on: April 16, 2007, 06:59:00 AM »

Hey, I was just wondering if anyone actually fixes 3RL in the UK using this method? I have an eery feeling mine is on it's way out and would like this method done. I'd rather not do it myself.
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sirsmooth

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« Reply #229 on: April 16, 2007, 01:56:00 PM »

Where do you live Darren?
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slunk

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« Reply #230 on: April 16, 2007, 05:54:00 PM »

First of all I'd like to say thanks to RBJTech and anyone else involved with this fix, its certainly saved me a lot of cash!
Whilst removing my heatsinks for the first time I noticed that I had no thermal compound or pads on what I assume to be two memory chips under the GPU heatsink. I put a dollop of arctic silver 5 on each and completed the x clamp replacement mod and shes been running fine since. However, the lack of these pads concerns me. Do I need them?
Cheers
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nettwerk

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« Reply #231 on: April 16, 2007, 07:06:00 PM »

Than LD and RBJ for the red light fix.. Found the parts at Lowes and got my xbox to boot up now but will crash when playing a game. Tried to reflow the solder again but it still crashes. This time I let it cook for 3mins 30 secs and going to let it cool overnight instead of a 30 mins. If this dont work then ill tear it apart for parts sad.gif

But im glad most everyone got theirs fixed and if my other 2 xboxes ROD im sure it will work on those lol.
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jameswalter

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« Reply #232 on: April 16, 2007, 07:48:00 PM »

QUOTE(slunk @ Apr 16 2007, 05:01 PM) View Post

Whilst removing my heatsinks for the first time I noticed that I had no thermal compound or pads on what I assume to be two memory chips under the GPU heatsink. I put a dollop of arctic silver 5 on each and completed the x clamp replacement mod and shes been running fine since.


They don't have pads stock....nor will AS5 do anything, because the space is so large between the heatsink and ram.  You need to use some sort of thermal pad (check another thread in the case mod forum....something about cooling methods and proof that they work).  I got the same stuff they mention in there and it works great.
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Rapachooi

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« Reply #233 on: April 16, 2007, 09:25:00 PM »

Absolutely works.

I have an MS28 box manufactured June I think.  I never had a single problem with overheating.  Played GRAW2, installed the update as required, box died with checkerscreen 2 days later when it was just playing MP3's off the HDD.

I used RBJTech (I think that was the author?) method and hacked into the CPU heatsink for it...  Still got the 3RL so had to overheat it to bring it back to the 2RL, then cooldown then badabing.  STUPID ME didnt put the fan shroud on at first and was wondering why from a cold start, the fans spun faster and faster sounding like a jet engine.

Anyway thanks heaps.

But I have a question.  Now that its all fixed I reflashed it back to 5.2C (I flashed back to orig because I was going to try to send it back to M$) but now the DVD drive makes a pretty rotten noise.  Im downgrading to 5.2D now to see if slower spins take it away, but it happened on 5.2A as well...

What happens is that the DVD drive spins up to fullspeed on games, then it stops loading by what sounds like applying the brakes... you can hear the disc shudder in the drive, and feel it if ya put your hand onto the drive door.

Does anyone know of a fix for this? I dont mind opening the DVD drive if there is some kind of fix... I prefer speed over sound... But I dont want to leave it how it is now because Im concerned it will start to scratch discs and worse still will kill the drive.

Thanks again to the people who put in that effort to get the 3RLOD fixed.

PS I used flat washers that were 0.83mm thick, instead of 0.71 and if I used 3 washers on the larger heatsink (GPU I think it was), then it wouldnt work for me. I ended up going with 2 flat washers, and 1 of those megathin wave washers from the xclamp.
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killer12rm

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« Reply #234 on: April 17, 2007, 02:19:00 AM »

I used RBJTech method. Just a few questions if anyone can help.

The 3RLOD have now gone, however i can only play a dvd game for approximatly 5-10 (max) mins.The 360 will sit at the dashboard for 12 hours + without any faults,  can play arcade games but as soon as i use a dvd game it lasts, as i said before, 5 mins ish

The screen has a small ammount of graphical crashing but the box will not respond to commands except the off button onthe media remote. Please help as this is driving me insane.
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RBJTech

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« Reply #235 on: April 17, 2007, 07:12:00 AM »

QUOTE(killer12rm @ Apr 17 2007, 09:26 AM) View Post

I used RBJTech method. Just a few questions if anyone can help.

The 3RLOD have now gone, however i can only play a dvd game for approximatly 5-10 (max) mins.The 360 will sit at the dashboard for 12 hours + without any faults,  can play arcade games but as soon as i use a dvd game it lasts, as i said before, 5 mins ish

The screen has a small ammount of graphical crashing but the box will not respond to commands except the off button onthe media remote. Please help as this is driving me insane.


Play with the number of washers and tightness of the nuts on the GPU, go down to 2 if you currently have 3 on the GPU.  It sounds like an issue I had with the bolt fix - the thermal heat increases when you start to use the GPU properly (ie not in dash or video sequence for that matter) and that's enough to break the BGU joint again.
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sharnock

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« Reply #236 on: April 17, 2007, 07:48:00 AM »

I am using lawdawg's method.

I couldnt get the nuts out of the GPU heatsink. Any idea of what specific tools i need to use?
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RBJTech

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« Reply #237 on: April 17, 2007, 07:14:00 AM »

QUOTE(sharnock @ Apr 17 2007, 02:19 PM) View Post

I am using lawdawg's method.

I couldnt get the nuts out of the GPU heatsink. Any idea of what specific tools i need to use?


1/4" socket or ring spanner - pliers will also do it but likely to slip so be carefull...
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nettwerk

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« Reply #238 on: April 17, 2007, 07:37:00 AM »

QUOTE(sharnock @ Apr 17 2007, 01:19 PM) View Post

I am using lawdawg's method.

I couldnt get the nuts out of the GPU heatsink. Any idea of what specific tools i need to use?



I used a crescent wrench, they are not on really tight.
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lukebe

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« Reply #239 on: April 17, 2007, 03:05:00 PM »

Hi - I'm currently half way through doing mine and I need to clarify some things:

1. Why do you need to drill 5mm holes in the CPU/GPU heat sinks when they are already 4mm and the nuts go through them?

2. Unless I'm doing something wrong. I've but out the sections of the GPU heat sink and it looks a bit hacked. Does this affect heat dissappation much?

3. Now I actually had trouble with 1 GPU stock bold that I had to remove before drilling and it snapped off. Real bad. But I drilled out the stock bolt. After working it out there are a few scratches under the heat sink around the bolt. Will this affect anything? If so, so I sand paper to smooth it out?
Having to drill the bolt out let this particular GPU hole at 6mm. I dont think this will have an impact. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

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