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[lawdawg0931]

After thr RBJTech mod, my fans run at full speed/volume. They never seem to quiet down like before. So I'm all for the Talismoon fans, or another mod of some sorts.

[SnufftheCrimeDog]

I'm slightly, and only slightly confused. Were using a M4 screws now, so the only part I ask is if we are not altering the heatsinks at all, do the M4 screws screw directly into the heatsinks? I guess the only area I'm slightly blurry on is with the first tutorial we were just taking the 'X' clamps off and replacing them with washer, and nuts. Now when I say that I know there were other steps but the main step was getting rid of the X xlamps. In RBJTechs, although the goal is still the same, removing the X clamps, you also alter the heatsinks, so that you can place a nut on each screw on the heatsinks. With out blabbering so much that I confuse people what parts of RBJTech' tutorial are we still doing and what part arent we doing. I know Lawdawg mentioned not having to drill the sinks so are still removing partial sections of the fins on the GPU heatsink so that the screw can pass through and we can fit a nut to clamp it down, or no. If were not, how secure is this. Does this keep the xbox from freezing. Because I believe that this is the fix it just depends on if you do it right. I think those who do experience freezing do not have one of the heatsinks clamped down enough. I just want to be clear before I go into surgery(with my xbox of course) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

This post has been edited by SnufftheCrimeDog: Apr 5 2007, 12:31 AM

[mattygabe]

Alright, well I did the fix (I am quite happy with it, it was a painless procedure!), however, I am having some issues.

The 360 starts flawlessly now.  No video issues at all.  I can play game demos flawlessly, watch video flawlessly (though I have not tested the box hardcore, no more than 5 minutes continuous use since the fix - have been busy), but the box is extremely sluggish when I start Crackdown.  At first I thought it was a freeze, but it is not.  It is merely a very sluggish moment.  Hitting the 360 button (or holding it) will eventually (within a minute or two) bring up the appropriate menu.  Crackdown also loads eventually, but it takes it 2-3 minutes.  I can also load a game with no problems, and I can play.  I see no problems in gameplay, but whenever a menu or loading sequence is initiated this is when I see the sluggishness - and only for major loads (like the beginning menu, etc).

My theory is that perhaps the board did not get warm enough to flex back enough (I did not touch a heat gun, I followed Lawdawg's tutorial verbatim).  I am now planning to do a heat gun to hopefully warp the board back for good.  I will, of course, exercise much caution when doing so - but I truly believe that this x-clamp removal is the end-all for the 3ROL.

[ferrari_rulz_02]

QUOTE(mattygabe @ Apr 5 2007, 11:53 AM)

Alright, well I did the fix (I am quite happy with it, it was a painless procedure!), however, I am having some issues.

The 360 starts flawlessly now.  No video issues at all.  I can play game demos flawlessly, watch video flawlessly (though I have not tested the box hardcore, no more than 5 minutes continuous use since the fix - have been busy), but the box is extremely sluggish when I start Crackdown.  At first I thought it was a freeze, but it is not.  It is merely a very sluggish moment.  Hitting the 360 button (or holding it) will eventually (within a minute or two) bring up the appropriate menu.  Crackdown also loads eventually, but it takes it 2-3 minutes.  I can also load a game with no problems, and I can play.  I see no problems in gameplay, but whenever a menu or loading sequence is initiated this is when I see the sluggishness - and only for major loads (like the beginning menu, etc).

My theory is that perhaps the board did not get warm enough to flex back enough (I did not touch a heat gun, I followed Lawdawg's tutorial verbatim).  I am now planning to do a heat gun to hopefully warp the board back for good.  I will, of course, exercise much caution when doing so - but I truly believe that this x-clamp removal is the end-all for the 3ROL.

yeah i think your problem is that the board is still a fraction warped. just please be careful with the heat gun

[bigg92]

Is it just me or are some of the pics missing for RBJs
also
 When he sais
"My bolts were M4 (4mm) therefore I drilled each hole with a 4mm drill.  I also countersunk each hole lightly so that the bolts would sit flush to the outer case.  To do this (and for the drilling) place a block of wood under the case or you’ll just end up bending the case out of shape.  There is no need to get the bolts perfectly flush as we have some space to work with.  Do not over countersink the holes, or the bolts will go straight through .. "

I get that I have to drill the whole to enlarge it to 4 mm but i dont get the counter sinking part. Would someone please explain this to me?

[RBJTech]

QUOTE(bigg92 @ Apr 5 2007, 03:32 AM)

Is it just me or are some of the pics missing for RBJs
also
 When he sais
"My bolts were M4 (4mm) therefore I drilled each hole with a 4mm drill.  I also countersunk each hole lightly so that the bolts would sit flush to the outer case.  To do this (and for the drilling) place a block of wood under the case or you’ll just end up bending the case out of shape.  There is no need to get the bolts perfectly flush as we have some space to work with.  Do not over countersink the holes, or the bolts will go straight through .. "

I get that I have to drill the whole to enlarge it to 4 mm but i dont get the counter sinking part. Would someone please explain this to me?

Hi - yea I was doing a bit of server maintenance earlier on today on all my tuts and moved some images around - I've checked all the links and they all look good now.  Try an F5 to refresh the page ..

wrt your question - I'm using countersunk bolts - basically these sit flush/level with whatever you bolt them to but in order to do this, the surface your bolting to also has to be countersunk.  The metal used for the case is soft steel, so don't go too mad with the countesink or you'll literally drill out too much and the bolt will fall though the now too big hole ...   if you don't have a countersink, then a large drill will do - but again, just a light touch to take the edge off the metal.  There is about 2-3mm of clerance from the bottom of the case to the outer plastic case, so as long as the bolt heads fit in there ok they you're good to go.

wrt to the 4mm vs 5mm thread.

There are two types of install here - one is using the existing thread in the heasinks - this is 5mm for which you must obviously use 5mm bolts ..  However, this bolts the h/s to the board NOT the case.  You cannot pass a 5mm bolt through the case, put a 5mm nut on, then the board, then the h/s, then the nuts etc - it's impossible - you can do it if just bolting to the board, hence this method.

My version uses 4mm bolts (I could have used 5mm) but I am NOT using the thread in the h/s.  In am drilling this out because I want the h/s to be FREE and have movement.  The downward pressure is held by the nuts and spring washers on the bolts pressing DOWN on the heatsink, the board and the case all at the same time.

I'll modify my X clamp diagram shortly and post it - a picture explains a thousand words ...

[RBJTech]

This is the original X clamp method :-

(IMG:http://rbjtech.bulldoghome.com/photos/BDRES/rbjtech_bulldoghome_com/360heatsink.gif)

This is my attempt to provide something better :-

(IMG:http://rbjtech.bulldoghome.com/photos/BDRES/rbjtech_bulldoghome_com/360heatsink_redesign.gif)

I hope this explains it better than I can in words ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Thanks,

Richard.

[durrtmcgurrt]

I fixed 2 0102 mobo's with this method. Simply amazing, and makes a LOT of sense. I used the PDF instructions, they were just so easy. I followed everything to the letter. Many many many thanks to everyone in the scene.

[Tfizzle]

RBJ -
 
 most of the picture links are still broke on your tutorial page.  dont know if your still doing maintenance.  just letting you know.

[RBJTech]

QUOTE(Tfizzle @ Apr 5 2007, 05:43 PM)

RBJ -
 
 most of the picture links are still broke on your tutorial page.  dont know if your still doing maintenance.  just letting you know.

thanks for letting me know - I think the HTML has screwed up somewhere as it works in my browser (IE) no problem but looking at the HTML it's got secondary src as local files ... I've now forced them all to the web images ...

I'll redo it tomorrow so it's clean HTML ... nightmare ...

 

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 4 2007, 11:50 PM)

After thr RBJTech mod, my fans run at full speed/volume. They never seem to quiet down like before. So I'm all for the Talismoon fans, or another mod of some sorts.

.. then somethings not sitting square.  To run at full pelt probably means the h/s are not on the die's properly ..

[bigg92]

ok so you countersink the board so the end of the bolt " /____\ " fits like a glove in the case. Would this really inprove it? Im am going to atempt this with a dremel once i get one lol

[RBJTech]

QUOTE(bigg92 @ Apr 5 2007, 08:59 PM)

ok so you countersink the board so the end of the bolt " /____\ " fits like a glove in the case. Would this really inprove it? Im am going to atempt this with a dremel once i get one lol

..have a look at post #82 - countersink the case not the board !  

[bigg92]

lol how could i say board my drill is going no were near my board lol but would countersinking improve it or can i just drill the hole to 4mm?

[N00bvin]

QUOTE(mattygabe @ Apr 4 2007, 05:53 PM)

Alright, well I did the fix (I am quite happy with it, it was a painless procedure!), however, I am having some issues.

The 360 starts flawlessly now.  No video issues at all.  I can play game demos flawlessly, watch video flawlessly (though I have not tested the box hardcore, no more than 5 minutes continuous use since the fix - have been busy), but the box is extremely sluggish when I start Crackdown.  At first I thought it was a freeze, but it is not.  It is merely a very sluggish moment.  Hitting the 360 button (or holding it) will eventually (within a minute or two) bring up the appropriate menu.  Crackdown also loads eventually, but it takes it 2-3 minutes.  I can also load a game with no problems, and I can play.  I see no problems in gameplay, but whenever a menu or loading sequence is initiated this is when I see the sluggishness - and only for major loads (like the beginning menu, etc).

My theory is that perhaps the board did not get warm enough to flex back enough (I did not touch a heat gun, I followed Lawdawg's tutorial verbatim).  I am now planning to do a heat gun to hopefully warp the board back for good.  I will, of course, exercise much caution when doing so - but I truly believe that this x-clamp removal is the end-all for the 3ROL.

Is your dvd drive installed back correctly?  This almost sounds like a DVD drive issue more than anything.  Maybe some kind of pressure on  top of the drive?

[mattygabe]

QUOTE(N00bvin @ Apr 5 2007, 08:17 PM)

Is your dvd drive installed back correctly?  This almost sounds like a DVD drive issue more than anything.  Maybe some kind of pressure on  top of the drive?

I thought perhaps, because it does make quite a bit of noise (perhaps is not properly fastened), but, so far it is proving that it was indeed what i thought.

Either I
A. Did not let the board flex back enough to make usable solders
or
B. The above fix does not satisfactorily flex the board enough.

I'm more than likely going to stick with A, as it seems most are having great success with Lawdawg's method alone.

What I did was I applied a quick and conservative heatgun fix (only 1 minute and not the maximum of 2 on high), taking EXTRA caution not to cake the board (believe me, I am VERY nervous doing that method).  I re-assembled the box, and the loading issue was resolved.  As of right now the box works perfectly, and I am content to believe that it was simply not enough flexing for the board to re-solder the connections.

I will mark today's date on my calendar, and will track and let you know if and when the box decides to crash again, hopefully to provide feedback for everyone on a possibly better solution (if this is indeed not the end-all).

Thanks again to Lawdawg and everyone else on here.  Great to have such educational and informative discussions.