Print

[phunkeymonkeh]

Last night i was playing Tony Hawks P8. The console had been on most of the day and is well ventilated as is the power supply.

Anyway, i was playing along , minding my own business trying to bust some sick moves on my board (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)... when the console shut itself off. No flashing lights...no nothing.

I decide to call it a night and put it down to over heating. I unplugged the console and left it until this morning.

So this morning..i connect it all back up. Nothing..dead. Apart from a red light on the brick.

So i put two and two together and got my sons power supply and tried it.

Life in the 360 now, but 3 red lights...oh oh i thought. Error code 0001. Well its definately not the supply because ive tried two..so it must be the mobo.

I opened the case couldnt see anything shorting the case (ive never installed any led's etc) plugged the power supply back in with the case open and checked the kettle cable and everthing.
Turned on the xbox..little puff of smoke and a spark..i nearly cried. honest.

Turned it off, and then back on again...and low and behold it works.
Despite the fact that there is a little scorching on the board???  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

So here i am , with a working 360 (all be it a tiny bit scorched) and...using my original brick.

Here is a pic of the little scorched circuitry...anyone know what this is?

The pic is 2.3MB (my camera skills are legendary, its my camera that sucks)
Its the little thing at the very bottom marked C9F1
http://www.nickywitts.f2s.com/images/360mobo.jpg

[pimpmaul69]

it is a capacitor.might not be totally neccessary for it to work...just can cause problems in their exploding phase til they finally short out.. so you might be good to go.. if not you will need the values of the capacitor to replace it

[phunkeymonkeh]

Well several hours of playing later its still fine so hopefully that will be the end of it.

[RBJTech]

I'd try and replace it.  That capacitor is part of the voltage regulator circuit - thus it is likely a supressor / filter of some kind.  

Without it - you are likely to damage the componets further up the chain (ie CPU etc) because the power now has 'ripple' in it ..

It's also worth doing because the capacitor is 1, easy to get to and 2, huge by SMD standards ... If you can find the value, it may even be possible to replace it with a 'normal' capacitor via fly leads rather than attempting to source the SMD component ...

Cheers, Richard.

[phunkeymonkeh]

I know nothing about this stuff.

How would i find out its value?

[grim_d]

QUOTE(phunkeymonkeh @ Mar 15 2007, 04:26 PM)

I know nothing about this stuff.

How would i find out its value?

you would need to remove it to get an accurate reading with a multimeter i think.

perhaps you should send it for repair if your not up to speed on this stuff.

[BoNg420]

if you get a red light on the brick, your brick could be dead, try a friends brick and see if your system works, if it does call MS to replace your brick

[phunkeymonkeh]

I've got a multimeter, but i dont fancy removing it.

The warranty is gone, so i might just leave it as is. If i get another couple of months out of it ....

And Bong  - Its not the brick

[RDC]

Unless your MM can test cap values removing it is mute, and even if ya did you'd have to remove a good one and not that burnt up one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) It's most likely a 0.01uf or 0.1uf and could be replaced, but isn't going to hurt a thing not being on there, the other 5 there in line with it are all on the same circuit.

What you really need to do though, is remove what is left of it in case it decides to short again and really burn something there up next time. It's such a part that you can just twist it off with a pair of needle nose pliers  and not hurt the traces, it's already cracked and burnt on the left most side anyway and will just crumble when you take it out. Just make SURE you have it all unplugged AND let it sit for a few hours BEFORE you do it, but it really should be done.

[pimpmaul69]

QUOTE(RDC @ Mar 15 2007, 06:09 PM)

Unless your MM can test cap values removing it is mute, and even if ya did you'd have to remove a good one and not that burnt up one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) It's most likely a 0.01uf or 0.1uf and could be replaced, but isn't going to hurt a thing not being on there, the other 5 there in line with it are all on the same circuit.

What you really need to do though, is remove what is left of it in case it decides to short again and really burn something there up next time. It's such a part that you can just twist it off with a pair of needle nose pliers  and not hurt the traces, it's already cracked and burnt on the left most side anyway and will just crumble when you take it out. Just make SURE you have it all unplugged AND let it sit for a few hours BEFORE you do it, but it really should be done.

i agree with you although a cap this small most likely wont cause anymore damage,but hey better safe than sorry

[RDC]

QUOTE(pimpmaul69 @ Mar 15 2007, 01:12 PM)

i agree with you although a cap this small most likely wont cause anymore damage,but hey better safe than sorry

If leaving burnt components on boards is your thing that's fine, but it's not mine nor should be anyones, and caps much smaller can cause a lot more damage than you might think. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Just because it's gone "poof" already doesn't mean it can't again and with possibly more damage to go along with it, it needs to be removed.

Question answered, Closed.

This post has been edited by RDC: Mar 16 2007, 12:32 PM