Topic: Red Lights = Design Flaw (Read 800 times)

rjtd · « **Reply #195 on:** June 29, 2007, 04:05:00 AM »

It would be great if someone sold the correct material (the washers and the bolt) on Ebay.
Where I live, it is very difficult to get them all. For example, there are only metal washers and stuff.
I, for now, am not in need, but I know quite a lot of people that had troubles performing the fix because of not finding the washers.

icepik_69 · « **Reply #196 on:** July 18, 2007, 09:36:00 PM »

WoW, what a thread. Instead of buying a new 360 this sounds waaaaaaaay better.

I can't wait to get started!

I was wondering if RBJTech , dokworm , brywalker , steddyman , RDC , lawdawg0931 , N00bvin , sirsmooth , ferrari_rulz_02 , JanusX88 , SSChevy2001 , lonedeath and anyone else who performed this mod is still up and running without having to take it apart to repair again?

Could you all please post how long you have been up and running, and if you had to re-repair it again?

I'm going to do this mod this weekend, and would love to know the success rate!!

Thanks so much for the great work guys!

icepik_69 · « **Reply #197 on:** July 18, 2007, 10:07:00 PM »

And RBJTech (Or anyone else whe knows),

I'm trying to picture your method using all the bolts and screws together but it's not makin sense to me.

Could you explain from heatsink -> down to the bottom of the chasis in what order the bolts, washers etc. go with as much detail as possible?

It may be on your website for all I know, but none of the links in this thread that go to your site will work.

With the order, and your list of parts which is:

Machine Screws + nuts - Countersunk Slotted 4mm x 20mm (10) - p/n AVF-069314
Hex Nut 4mm (7) - p/n AVF-064616 (3mm thick)
Spring Washer 4mm (30) - p/n AVF-065088
Flat Washer 4mm (70) - p/n AVF-064951 (washers are 0.77mm thick)
Nylon Lock Nut (4) - p/n AVF-064685 (x2)

I should be able to handle it no probs!!

Thanks again guys!

santa09 · « **Reply #198 on:** July 18, 2007, 10:08:00 PM »

so pretty much you guys have new bolts and screws and stuff that will stop the mobo flex? Because really its the flex i thing the heat gun method is a temporaory fix because as soon as you heat gun it you streach the solder at where the mobo does flex. It dosent stop the flexing or get it back to normal. So pretty much all we have to do is get the board to stop flexing and we pretty much have a good fix. And we gotta get some new heatsinks on there and mabye an aftermarket copper one. And some ram heatsinks.

icepik_69 · « **Reply #199 on:** July 18, 2007, 10:10:00 PM »

And is drilling a 4 or 5 mm hole where the heatsink pegs were necessary? Cuz I dont have access to a drill ATM.

?

ascalon · « **Reply #200 on:** August 05, 2007, 02:49:00 PM »

Is the typical frequent freezing problem (in game and/or soon after the counsel starts up) one in the same with the 3 red lights of death problem? I mean, do they usually have the same cause? Is so, then that means the x calmps replacements and cooling solutions here should fix freezing, correct?

steveranda · « **Reply #201 on:** August 09, 2007, 07:40:00 PM »

Ok..Now I am getting conflicting reports about bolts and washers to use...
Lawdawg says to use
8 M5-.80 x 10 Machine Screws
16 #10 Flat Washers Nylon
16 5mm Flat Washers Metal

I am in the US and I am not a big hardware guy so I dont know if I go to a hardware store and ask for M5-.80x10 or for #10 Flat washers if the guy at the hardware store is going to be clueless? Can someone fill me in if I am missing something, or can someone let me know if what I have typed is a size at the hardware store?
Thanks

brandogg · « **Reply #202 on:** August 09, 2007, 08:48:00 PM »

Just go to Ace hardware and look on the aisles where they sell the screws/nuts/bolts individually. You'll need to buy from both the metric aisle and the "US" aisle. I'm pretty sure you can find everything you need at boltdepot.com as well. Anyway, the boxes that contain the bolts are marked almost exactly like you have them listed there.

steveranda · « **Reply #203 on:** August 10, 2007, 07:31:00 PM »

So I went to Ace Hardware and bought what was listed in my post from above per Lawdawgs tutorial. But the bolts that are M5-.80 x 10 Machine Screws - seem very small. I also picked up the same bolts M5-.80 x 15 Machine Screws . The difference in the two is the length of the bolts. Which should I use? Also, I am wondering if I use the M5-.80 x 10 Machine Screws will the screw be long enough to go through the case, the board, and then into the heatsinks?

Any help?

DuBob4432 · « **Reply #204 on:** August 10, 2007, 11:01:00 PM »

i think you guys that are having issues because you are reading too far into a couple different ways and revisions to do this. the result in all of them is the removal of the x-clamp, but they get there in slightly different manners.

if you do only one way and stick with that setup all the way through there shouldn't be any issues.

lawdawg's method hasn't changed that i know of but RBJTech is up to rev III (3), so make sure if you do RBJTech's method, you follow it all from the same revision or mk # as the hardware and manner is different along w/ modifications.

hopefull this pic will help those out that are having issues -

(IMG:http://rbjtech.bulldoghome.com/photos/BDRES/rbjtech_bulldoghome_com/xclamp/xclampwashers.gif)

steveranda · « **Reply #205 on:** August 11, 2007, 08:48:00 AM »

Correct me if I am wrong, but in following Lawdawgs method, it doesnt appear that you screw the motherboard to the case. The bolts he suggests I think are way to short and in his steps is looks like the bolts and washers only go through the motherboard and heatsinks, and then the motherboard with the heatsinks back attached with the new bolts just sits on top of the case...Can anyone confirm this for Lawdawgs method?

Thanks

SirisX · « **Reply #206 on:** August 23, 2007, 10:22:00 PM »

I can confirm that Microsoft's Xbox 360 is indeed flawed in its design. Though I don't think the design flaw is so much the lack of support screws and standoffs around the outside perimeter of the CPU and GPU units. The design flaw is the X-bars themselves, they are perhaps one of the worst features ever installed into a compact video game console such as the 360 because of the pressure they apply underneath the CPU and GPU chips causing solder points to break as previously stated in this thread.

I removed the X-bars from my 360 and replaced them with a series of plastic nylon washers on each of the screw holes in the 360. I bought my washers at Ace Hardware, but any hardware store should be able to provide them. If you're going to be replacing the X-bars in the console you might as well also replace the thermal compound the 360s come with and use a proper thermal compund, Artic Silver brand works fine.

SirisX · « **Reply #207 on:** August 24, 2007, 03:13:00 PM »

I'm going to break it down and make this reallllly simple for anyone that happens to past by my post.

Replace the flawed Microsoft X-clamps, that are the root of all 360 problems, with the proper amount of washers. You should use either aluminum or plastic nylon washers as these two materials are the safest to use.

You don't need to place anything else inside the case, just place about one thick washer and two or so thin washers over each hole to act as a replacement for the X-clamps...thats it. Make sure the washers are properly aligned, have someone hold the motherboard upside down while holding the heatsinks in place, and screw the case back onto the motherboard. Thats it...put the 360 back together and you won't have any more red lights of death, unless of course you have screwed your 360 console up beyond repair through other methods not discussed in my post.

What this fix does is replace the flawed X-clamps that were once applying too much pressure underneath of the CPU and GPU chips, this effectively breaks the solder points that are on the opposite side of the motherboard, underneath the chips.

NS91 · « **Reply #208 on:** September 02, 2007, 01:49:00 AM »

QUOTE(steveranda @ Aug 11 2007, 11:24 AM)

Correct me if I am wrong, but in following Lawdawgs method, it doesnt appear that you screw the motherboard to the case. The bolts he suggests I think are way to short and in his steps is looks like the bolts and washers only go through the motherboard and heatsinks, and then the motherboard with the heatsinks back attached with the new bolts just sits on top of the case...Can anyone confirm this for Lawdawgs method?

Thanks

I'd like to know the answer to this too. Thanks in advance!

This post has been edited by NS91: Sep 2 2007, 08:49 AM

feldiasa · « **Reply #209 on:** September 02, 2007, 09:57:00 AM »

QUOTE(steveranda @ Aug 11 2007, 09:24 AM)

Correct me if I am wrong, but in following Lawdawgs method, it doesnt appear that you screw the motherboard to the case. The bolts he suggests I think are way to short and in his steps is looks like the bolts and washers only go through the motherboard and heatsinks, and then the motherboard with the heatsinks back attached with the new bolts just sits on top of the case...Can anyone confirm this for Lawdawgs method?

Thanks

You are correct.

Author Topic: Red Lights = Design Flaw (Read 800 times)