Topic: GPU Reballing (Read 527 times)

fokia · « **Reply #90 on:** February 20, 2008, 12:11:00 PM »

QUOTE(Ichisuke @ Feb 20 2008, 02:38 PM)

why someone doesn't make some "xbox360reballing tool" for sale..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

'Cause just an hot air station costs around +500: you could buy two 360s...

letsmod · « **Reply #91 on:** February 29, 2008, 10:02:00 AM »

there is a company in the USA who sells a specific X360 repairs stations reflow/reball but it i s$9,995 USD

kingkoor · « **Reply #92 on:** May 01, 2008, 09:08:00 PM »

So I got my three red light ring. It happened playing GTA after about 5 minutes of playing yesterday after a good solid 2 days playing. There was a beep and then it froze. Rebooted and it booted up to Xbox screen beeped and froze again and went to three lights. I shut it down disconnected everything gave it another shot, game loaded and froze after a minute. After this wont turn on or anything, three lights, error is 0102. So after research I came to the conclusion the towel trick is BS that is gonna make it worst. The heat gun seems too broad over the board for me and seems like it good cause the start of damage in the future. The eraser trick is pretty cool, although after reading much on this the best thing I saw was using the washer for the heat pipes in faucets. But what intrigues me the most is re-balling the GPU. I would like to know from some of the experienced people here if it's a professional job do you think it could be a permanent fix? How much would this job cost? Anyone know any skilled technicians in the New York area?

kingkoor · « **Reply #93 on:** May 02, 2008, 06:53:00 AM »

Anybody can help me out with this?

ghostsofdecepticon420 · « **Reply #94 on:** May 02, 2008, 08:39:00 AM »

QUOTE(kingkoor @ May 2 2008, 09:29 AM)

Anybody can help me out with this?

First off, is your box still under warranty? Have you already tried a repair/mod? Is the seal broken?

If it is under warranty and you have NOT broken the seal, send it to M$. That's the easiest fix. Otherwise, xclamp replacement is usually the best fix to try first ONLY if your box has been opened or is completely out of warranty.

kingkoor · « **Reply #95 on:** May 02, 2008, 03:56:00 PM »

Yeah I'm assuming the seal is broken, I bought it off a friends coworker in Dec 06 for 100 bucks and a ipod nano. It is flashed with whatever firmware was out around that time.

This post has been edited by kingkoor: May 2 2008, 10:56 PM

cylent · « **Reply #96 on:** July 30, 2008, 06:46:00 AM »

QUOTE(davidrose9 @ Jan 17 2007, 08:18 AM)

Anyone out there repairing 360's this way, would be getting my business I bought a new heat gun and have been waiting, not wanting to use it for a more permanent solution, this is obviously the way to go, and I am not going to heat my board up if there are reputable repairs reballing like this. If anyone is recommended please pm me I sure would like to send it out and get it fixed the right way. Seems to me a waste to heat gun it for a couple weeks of play and lead free solder separates again. No the answer.

ya me too.

i am willing to shell out the $ for a professional job!

time to collect some broken ebay parts lol! j/k

cylent · « **Reply #97 on:** July 30, 2008, 07:05:00 AM »

QUOTE(SMTRework @ Jan 25 2007, 07:07 AM)

I think I need to restate an important factor in many of 360 owners "reflow" attempts. Also, this will better answer "Saferol's" question in a little more in detail.

When many of you are applying hot air to the top of the suspect chip, you're seeing results and assuming that you actually "reflowed" the solder of that particular component. What many of you are actually experiencing is a decrease in the clearance between the problem solder ball(s) and the motherboard pad. This decrease in clearance is enough for the two surfaces to make contact. This contact is enough to allow the system to function temporarily.

Why do you think that wrapping the system in a towel and suffocating the system allows it to work for a short period of time?

The main reason "reflowing" and or applying any heat to the chip / board is working is due to board flexing. The board is actually flexing or changing shape thus reducing the clearance between the suspect solder balls and the PCB (motherboard) pad.

To get true actual solder reflow on these 360's GPU / CPU is going to require a tremendous amount of heat. On one board I worked with, the bottom preheater was set for full heat at 220c and the top heater actually achieved heat in the 400c range which is almost certain death for any common BGA package. Of couse all of the finest BGA rework materials were used in this process.

wow i love how you made things sooo clear. i can now fully understand what is happening.
going at the board with a hot air gun blind is sorta of like wearing a blindfold and hoping to drive straight on a busy road.

THANK YOU!

cylent · « **Reply #98 on:** July 30, 2008, 07:33:00 AM »

QUOTE(SMTRework @ Jan 30 2007, 07:44 PM)

Sphinx,

Yes, that's them. In all actuality it's not mainly their fault. It's the design engineers who are to blame and or the people responsible for the budget when the 360 was being designed.

For all you folks wanting to get the best cooling possible for your GPU, here is some helpful info...

Below is an image of the GPU. The smaller Die on top of the GPU does not make contact with the GPU heat sink. It's actually .017mm shorter than the main Die on the top of the chip.

You definitely want to add some kind of heat dissipating material to the top of that small die in order to fill the "gap" between it and the heat sink.

IPB Image

- Joe / SMTRework

thats interseting. does this mean i should pop open my elite and apply 3 layers of AS5?
crap!

fear30x · « **Reply #99 on:** July 30, 2008, 04:38:00 PM »

Excellent insite & info here ty

martin.ca · « **Reply #100 on:** July 30, 2008, 05:13:00 PM »

Excellent info here.

So heatgunning is really a temporary, poor, unprofessional fix that mess up your board.

cylent · « **Reply #101 on:** July 30, 2008, 05:35:00 PM »

QUOTE(martin.ca @ Jul 31 2008, 03:49 AM)

Excellent info here.

So heatgunning is really a temporary, poor, unprofessional fix that mess up your board.

heatgunning was never for the mild at heart. its for the willing and the people who can say "its already broken -- the worst that can happen is it breaks some more"

BlackOmega · « **Reply #102 on:** October 22, 2008, 12:49:00 AM »

Guys, I just want to post an update here since I'm beeing PMed and mailed a lot about this thread.

The reaballing process DOESN'T WORK. After 1 to 3 months ALL CONSOLES THAT WERE REPAIRED USING THIS TECHNIQUE FAILED AGAIN, I mean 100% of them.

Best and cheapest option for anyone who had their 360s failing is buying another. It's sad but it's true.

I did like to add this post to the top of my original post, but it seems that I can't edit it anymore =/

sethiroth33 · « **Reply #103 on:** October 22, 2008, 10:33:00 AM »

Holy shit, thats insane... what tools do you need to resurface something like that? Like right now i have error code 0021 which is a bridged solder point under the GPU... if i took it off light that, could i use a desoldering braid and get rid of the bridged joints??? As it is i have nothing to lose... Thanks

Also, how do you get the bitch off? Do you heat it up with a heatgun and then take it off?

This post has been edited by sethiroth33: Oct 22 2008, 05:34 PM

maysam · « **Reply #104 on:** April 11, 2009, 01:44:00 AM »

hi

thanks from all.

i have one question:

i have 2 mobo.

one dead gpu on my board other dead cpu.

can i removing good gpu from borad two and replacing it with dead gpu?

thanks

Author Topic: GPU Reballing (Read 527 times)