Hey bud.
I can understand you ok for the most part
I've probably put a good 40 hours of reading into doing all of this before I plunged into it myself.
You see, from what I gathered of the results you were getting from the one's you were repairing for people get returned to you in 1 week- 6 weeks time correct?
You see, I think that if you just do the heat gun methold and put some better thermal paste on, and put everything back together and keep it stock. With that you have the major design flaw your overlooking that microsnuff made "cooling and circulation" relative to two very powerful processing engines.
Thing is, Microsnuff wanted to get out as many 360's to the general public as they could before the launch of the PS3. So with that said, they overlooked this big time by not putting enough testing into it.
In a nutshell.. doing the heatgun method and putting it back together will have the soldier contacts bottom center and outter section of the GPU start to get weak again. This is due to the contacts heating up and cooling off "by shutting it off" with each power/play cycle. Ok I think you get what I mean there

Now... I am not claiming to be a professional by any standards. But it is to my understanding with Microsnuffs major design flaw that us culprits are presented with.. we need to do something about it "if a last resort and no warrenty" is to take it apart, make sure contact is tight with heatsink/GPU and that the remelting is done right and most importantly...heatsink cooled by fan.
I think this is the only true long lasting method boys and girls. Sure putting it back together after doing a good remelting job will work, you will be pleased and play it with a smile... but soon... like for some of you that bought a 360, and two days later got the red ROL.. it will happen again in due time because the chip got too hot and phucked up those little itty bitty solder beads under the GPU
Good luck peoplez
PS it sure runs alot more snappy and game play seems to be better when things are running cooler.. well duh, even anyone into computer's and gaming would know that result

mygameswireless.com never said all his repairs come back.. and second his method of stepping cant cause the chip to shift because of the way he designed his device..if you look at it and use simple logic you will see that
I don't know if you refering to me or not, but I left my mobo cool for 30-35 minutes, then apply my thermal paste, by then it's been cooling for 40-45 minutes. It wont get any colder by that point in time.
If you fan the board properly before focusing on the GPU top & bottom, you wont warp or make the board bow in and out due to different temps at different parts of the board.
The foil is a waste of your time. There is no need, just dont have your gun on the highest setting sitting idle 1 inch off of a plastic piece

yes i was talking to you... what we both are saying is to apply the pressure while it is still hot and not letting it cool all the way down.. never have needed any cooling and alot of my error 102/0020 repairs have been over a year now with no returns.. but cooling it is good so if it works for you go ahead... i just dont charge enough to go through all that trouble.. if i had problems then i could see changing my methods