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Author Topic: 3 Red Light & Heat Gun  (Read 725 times)

FearsomeSNR

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #75 on: January 23, 2007, 06:21:00 PM »


Thanks for your input safrole.  I will invest in some solder to gauge the temp.
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Safrole

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #76 on: January 24, 2007, 09:10:00 AM »

Well it's only fair to tell you my 360 died again last night.  (GRRR!)

After reading some of the reballing discussions, I can believe that simple heating may (in some cases) never effect a proper reflow.  Obviously mine did not, as it played perfectly for about 50 days and then crapped out.  Whatever was wrong, it was not reflowed properly.  BTW  I play it probably 4 days a week, averaging 2 hrs a day, so my problem was masked for about 50 hrs of uptime and 25 thermal cycles.

You can bet I'm going to give it another shot, with a couple changes.  This time I'll restrict the airflow on the heat gun, and effect a slight "touch" or something while the solder is molten (as suggested by Wireless).  Alternatively, I may rig up a small weight to press on the gpu during reflow.  This would be something similar in principle to a phonograph needle.  A long arm bears the weight, but only a pinpoint presses on the gpu, to keep the thermal disturbance down.  Probably I'll bend some brass rod into an "L" shape and hang a steel nut on the horizontal part, then still give it the slightest tapping while hot.  My concern is that the open surface of the crack is oxidized and won't want to reflow without a little persuasion.  Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm once bitten twice shy.

I'll give that another 50 days.  If it dies again, I'll check the reballers' luck and maybe go that way, the BIG fix.
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FearsomeSNR

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #77 on: January 24, 2007, 03:42:00 PM »

50 days is better than 14.  Having said that i cant check if the toothpicks have come loose under the x-clips as i'm still waiting for a T8 to emerge from internetland.

I played 4 hours + on doom in the dash last night without issue.  Loaded the Midway demo and it crashed within 10 minutes.  Microsofts subliminal cut of a checkerboard is getting tiresome now.

Right now, i'm happy with a temporary fix (50 days will be fine) Once i have ran the heat gun, i'll keep you informed how long its lasting.
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qaz_

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #78 on: February 07, 2007, 06:53:00 PM »

hey what's up
my 360 works good !
60days has pass
thanks 2 u love.gif

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mygameswirelesscom

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #79 on: February 08, 2007, 10:06:00 PM »

hey thats good !!

all my repairs are going too good !

thaNKS TOO ALL IN THIS FORUMS

I HAVE PUT 4 360 IN TEST

2 NO GOOD  dry.gif

2 R GOOD RUNING SO GOOD !! tongue.gif

I WANT TO LET YOU KNOW FRIEST Safrole

I WANT TO  SHOW SOME PIC WHAT I AM DOING TO REPAIR ALL 360

GIVE ME A E-MAIL  wink.gif



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futureunknown

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #80 on: February 10, 2007, 01:24:00 AM »

This is the only true long lasting way of doing it, other then water cooling so I've been told and did it to my 360. I had 0110 pretty much the same as 0102

anyways. this is the ulgy way, but take your GPU and CPU sinks off, carefully clean the chips, then use alc to get them real clean, Get yourself a good powerful heat gun, one that has a max heat of 840 is excellent and just right.

You DO NOT need to heat the whole board, when you start, have the board between to boxes of the same height so the board is level. start the gun on it's lowest setting working a circular motion around ONLY the GPU, do this with the gun 4-5 inches away. Start "warming" the entire board up so it doesnt bow, go ontop and underneath.

Once your board is warm, one the lowest setting focus only on the GPU top and bottom with same times. have a piece of soldier on the gpu core "dont worry it wont harm it" this is so when the soldier starts to melt, you know that you've almost reached the proper temp.

Work the GPU top and bottom for 3 minutes to warm it on its lowest setting "my mastercraft has low and high with low being 430F and high being 835F. once you have done that, flip it onto high, this time keep your gun 5 inches from the GPU continuing in the circle motion and occasionally give the whole board just a "quick" pass over to keep things warm so the board doesnt spring/ bow on you.

When I started to see the flux coming out of my solder piece on the GPU "lil piece I placed for guidance" I continued heating top and bottom for another 90 seconds.

In total I heated from start to finish, roughly 7-8 minutes.

DO NOT!!!!!!!! move the board for 30 minutes. Someone said they were impatiend and moved the board after 15 minutes... have patience!!! this thing cost us some good money, so why screw it up being inpatient!!!!

Ok, after 30 minutes, you can pick up the piece of soldier off of the GPU "no worries, wont stick to it" make sure your core die's are all very clean, then apply your thermal paste.

I also used the toothpick shim's as well, there was a fair amount of play in mine!
I also installed an 80MM fan on the GPU heatsink... people.. this is the FIX, I am telling you!

If you just do the heat gun fix, put it back together, I can assure you that your box will be 3 Red ROL with in 1-4 weeks.

Problem is, the new 1080p update microsoft made us do, fried alot of boxes really fast because the solder used is led free soldier "outlawed in the usa for childrens products" so the extra heat the GPU gives off due to this update was the iceing on the cake.

Now you may say, well.. I have a newer 360, I got the update in November, and mine is still good.. Dont even go there, I can promise you that your box WILL be 3 red ROL in due time... everyone's will until this issue is address "new 360 coming out in aprilish with 120gig HD an HDMI"

anyways, I am no pro, but I have done a good 30 hours straight of hard core reading before I did this myself.
I am fixed, and my GPU heatsink is running pretty cool "just a little warm to the touch playing Graw2 or F.e.a.r.

Want to know the BEST part of this boy's? this was my brothers 360 prem bundle he bought, and he was so pissed that he was a dummy and broke the seal when microsoft wanted 170 to repair it. now that he just found out he could have gotten it done for free just recently...I said well what do you want for it? I wouldnt mind trying to fix it.... Got the wireless controller, power brick, HDD!!!!!! and unit all for $30 bucks biggrin.gif biggrin.gif biggrin.gif can you say im the happiest guy in the world? hell yes..

Now..

I followed this one fellows method, but I used a larger fan the him. I started off with a cpu fan, but the heatsink was still getting hot, shut if off after 5 minutes in two games and my buddy hooked me up with a nice 80mm, which I might add.. fits the GPU heat sink PEFECTLY, only thing is you can only put two screws in.. this isnt a problem and it sits, and runs fine. I have mine blowing down.

I also sealed all the little gaps on the exhaust port with elec tape.

Now the only downfall to this method is that you cant put your dvd drive back in.
So here's the moral of the story, you can do the heat gun, put it back together and be back to square one in a 1-4 weeks time, or even worse, toast it.... or you can stop reading all these peoples ways of doing it and do it my way and have it look half assed for the time being "thinking on putting it in a PC case down the road" and have it last.


The ONLY major hardware fault issue is "THE GPU" nothing else, stop risking on screwing your boards up heating every damn chip up. Folks, it's only the GPU at fault here.

If anyone is too scared to do this, and lives in Canada, I'd be happy to it for you for a good price.
PS been into computers my whole life so I am not no teenager trying to talk smack here. The top priority is to get the gpu to stay as cool on that heatsink as you can so the solder balls dont screw up.

and stock in the case with the dvd drive, with the dvd drive in, there is only "1/8th" of an inch gap between the heatsink and floor of the dvd drive...

Microsoft... you built a damn reliable Xbox 1... im ashamed of you people with the 360 in rushing it so fast to overlook these things... or maybe it was a scam to make them millions on just the money some poor suckers pay for repairing them.
Eather way, with the 360 and Vista and Bill Gates retiring soon.... Thing's are looking dire indeed for Microsnuff.
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FearsomeSNR

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #81 on: February 10, 2007, 05:50:00 AM »

I couldnt agree with you more.  The problem is always the GPU but people keep talking about over heating and get a 12v fan etc etc...why?  Drives me insane, forget about the bloody CPU, you could probably dip that thing in tar and it would still work, it is the GPU, hence the graphical errors.

Enough of my rant.  Quick update on my 0102 issue, did the toothpick twice and on average it will last about 2 weeks.  

On thursday i ran the heat gun on my mobo for approx 5=6 mins starting off on low heat then high, focusing on the GPU.  I'll use this post as a reminder of how long this may last.

http://www.blackcats.../IMAGE00106.jpg

@safrole : tried putting solder on a chip to test temp but the heatgun will blow it about, not sure i really want to cover the intakes.
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futureunknown

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #82 on: February 10, 2007, 01:24:00 PM »

QUOTE(FearsomeSNR @ Feb 10 2007, 01:57 PM) View Post

I couldnt agree with you more.  The problem is always the GPU but people keep talking about over heating and get a 12v fan etc etc...why?  Drives me insane, forget about the bloody CPU, you could probably dip that thing in tar and it would still work, it is the GPU, hence the graphical errors.

Enough of my rant.  Quick update on my 0102 issue, did the toothpick twice and on average it will last about 2 weeks.  

On thursday i ran the heat gun on my mobo for approx 5=6 mins starting off on low heat then high, focusing on the GPU.  I'll use this post as a reminder of how long this may last.

http://www.blackcats.../IMAGE00106.jpg

@safrole : tried putting solder on a chip to test temp but the heatgun will blow it about, not sure i really want to cover the intakes.


The 12v fan is on the GPU heatsink, not the CPU. I couldn't care less about the CPU's temp as this isnt the probem we're all having here.. it is the GPU at fault, getting too hot and screwing up the soldier contacts.
I am going to play around with it some more, maybe switch the fan around so it is sucking instead of blowing on the chip... although I think that may be a worse idea. None the less. The GPU is running much cooler with my fan mod!

any input from others doing this would be great to hear
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futureunknown

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #83 on: February 10, 2007, 10:52:00 PM »

Well ive been up for two straight days. have had my 360 running since 11am "1:35am now" GPU seems to be running much cooler with the new 80mm fan on it and all the vent cracks sealed with elec tape.

I shall keep you posted.
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FearsomeSNR

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« Reply #84 on: February 10, 2007, 11:52:00 PM »

Been playing solid on the 360 for 3 days now, still going fine.  Must have spent 10 hours a day on it since.  Completed 2 games from start to finish (can only get away with this when the gf is away smile.gif

i'll let you know how it goes.
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nnndoh

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #85 on: February 11, 2007, 02:48:00 AM »

i think my xbox is really dead now. i got an 0102 error, yesterday did the air gun trick and new artic silver, and i got error 0020, did the air gun 3 times more, still error 0020. ( with a little pressure on the gpu chip)
i hope the v2 version will be out soon, i'm a bit affraid to buy a new v1 one to get the same problems after updates.

( bought it on dec 2nd 2005, first time it crashed after november update 2006, 2nd crash in december, official dead on januari 2007 after update.)

 sad.gif
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mygameswirelesscom

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #86 on: February 11, 2007, 06:52:00 AM »

hey did you try tooth pick?

if not try !!

it will work 4 you   50/50

if yes (you did used tooth pick)

than remove your x pice  put new past (gpu/cpu hey don't put to much!!)

now you want to  band the X  a litter bet so it could be titer !!
(i used pice of rubber pice in center of X so it gives more.....

yes 2~3 360 that i have repair with tooth pick came back with 3 red ...
i see the gpu and mobo in the gap i see it baend
yes i see Y !!
i look and look saw  the gap of gpu all 4 coner is tuching !!
but from the senter ther are 2 sorder point is not toching    !!
i see y puting tooth pick to much presser will baend the gpu (looks banana)
so that time i cut my sleeper (sander) pice
and put in senter of X by the black pice hoping it gives more presser in all gpu
yes it works !!

hey good luck !

p.s. i know my engish is bad sorry !! smile.gif
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nnndoh

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #87 on: February 11, 2007, 12:18:00 PM »

i did the toothpick trick back in december.. its kinda the same as bending those X bridges ( don;t know the name) i just tryed it again, but it won't work.

i'm done with it , let someone chiped my nintendo wii today and  i will go play with that till i have enough money to buy a new xbox
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gordita37

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #88 on: February 11, 2007, 12:30:00 PM »

QUOTE(mygameswirelesscom @ Feb 11 2007, 05:27 AM) View Post

this is one of the my way of putind 195LB in gpu/cpu !!
repairing 360 with heat gun i do all day....
pepole ask me how do i put presser in to gpu cpu ...
heat gun yes whan it is hot than i stap on it 4 ~ 5 min

Hi, im sorry but ive been trying to read your post for about 5 minutes. So what your saying is that you step on the gpu/cpu for 4-5 minutes when its hot? huh.gif
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futureunknown

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3 Red Light & Heat Gun
« Reply #89 on: February 11, 2007, 03:40:00 PM »

DO NOT touch the GPU when it is hot and cooling, one slight movement from your fault will result in the contacts going out of place.
Warning!!!!!!
Don't do this.

Sir, I know you have claimed to worked on many 360's and your english is so bad at times that I have a hard time understanding what your trying to say. But don't do this.

If you use the heat gun properly, THEN shim it and add a cooling fan ontop of the GPU, your good to go.

No offense to you sir.

But don't listen to some of these peoples stupid ways of doing things. Your just going to fry your board.



Let's put it this way.

If you want your 360 to look back to original and pretty, your box will screw up in short notice.
If you dont care and have broke your warrently seal, and dont really care about looks, then do it my way. It is the ONLY way your going to have your 360 last like a normal xbox 1. THE GPU GETS TO HOT FOLKS! need cooling and to have the heatsink fit tighter!
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