Topic: 3 Red Light & Heat Gun (Read 705 times)

futureunknown · « **Reply #105 on:** February 18, 2007, 11:30:00 AM »

Fans are cheap.

But how to you propose having it all together with fans in side? You cant put one on the GPU and close it up... Well maybe if some manufacture out there makes an 80mm fan skinnny enough.

You got me there. The fan on the CPU isn't really helping matters, It is throwing the heat out the vent much quicker and making the CPU run a bit cooler. But the CPU isn't the problem.. that fan can be left inside, but the GPU..... that's the issue.

bojngles · « **Reply #106 on:** February 18, 2007, 03:46:00 PM »

Hey guys! I have been doing tons of reading on this before i finally decided to take the plunge. I have done around 50 of these so far. I hope with everyone colaborating we can figure out a more permanent solution. This is what i have done so far with the greatest success.

Heat the chips with the highest temperature of the heatgun (mine goes to about 1000F, lower temperature fix didnt seem to last too long).

While heating, slightly tap the top of the gpu and cpu to to ensure a good solder connection. Let cool and repeat on bottom side.

After cooling I apply a VERY THIN layer of arctic silver 5. I have heard from a number of people that less is more with thermal compound. Putting too much actually worsens the heat flow between the chip and heatsink.

Then i do a modification to the toothpick trick. First i bend the metal X's a little more giving it a little higher spring force. Then under the clips i put a thin washer to increase pressure between CPU and heatsinl. I fel the washers are a lot easier to apply then the toothpicks.

If any other people have experience similar or different to mine let me know. So far I have a whole bunch running strong for several hours.

Together we will find the solution!!! I am here to give anyone a hand. Feel free to shoot me a pm.

PhillyFanRS · « **Reply #107 on:** February 18, 2007, 05:37:00 PM »

Hi gentleman just wants to let you know what I think!!

futureunknown · « **Reply #108 on:** February 19, 2007, 02:31:00 PM »

why not just buy a longer sata cable, then extend the power cable?
Its not hard... just match the colors up.
Good luck

Perplexer · « **Reply #109 on:** February 19, 2007, 08:07:00 PM »

QUOTE(PhillyFanRS @ Feb 18 2007, 10:20 PM)

Heatgun is bull.

Finally a post that makes sense!

No offense to the rest of you, but you are NOT reflowing solder... and if you really ARE getting the components hot enough, you are damaging them or other parts of the board! ESPECIALLY when adding pressure...

I won't deny that there is a problem with BGA components contacting the board, but what is REALLY happening is that your heat is causing the motherboard to flex and temporarily (days, weeks, even months) improving contact between them.

If it makes you feel better, then go ahead and use the heat gun... but you will NEVER fix the problem this way!

dayothegreat · « **Reply #110 on:** February 19, 2007, 09:45:00 PM »

QUOTE(futureunknown @ Feb 19 2007, 10:38 PM)

why not just buy a longer sata cable, then extend the power cable?
Its not hard... just match the colors up.
Good luck

the sata cable is not a problem, the power cable it is. and matching colors is good if it is'nt all black

dokworm · « **Reply #111 on:** February 19, 2007, 10:24:00 PM »

It is getting hot enough, you can measure the drop in the chip after the heatgun application when done right. Same with the apple ibooks with cruddy logic boards, you can *see* the difference in the GPU - circuit board gap quite clearly. The solder definately melts, the chip drops and the sucker works.

What is your Solution Philly???

Tortuga2112 · « **Reply #112 on:** February 20, 2007, 03:59:00 AM »

QUOTE(dokworm @ Feb 20 2007, 06:31 AM)

It is getting hot enough, you can measure the drop in the chip after the heatgun application when done right. Same with the apple ibooks with cruddy logic boards, you can *see* the difference in the GPU - circuit board gap quite clearly. The solder definately melts, the chip drops and the sucker works.

What is your Solution Philly???

ebay as parts.

_zlinky · « **Reply #113 on:** February 20, 2007, 11:47:00 AM »

I tried that heatgun thing yesterday. My xbox worked for 5 minutes, then froze, then I restarted it about 4 times and it froze during the intro each time. The fifth time it worked for a minute, then froze again. I restarted the xbox and then it gave me the 3 lights of death again. I left it alone for about an hour and then started playing it again, it froze after about 2 minutes then gave me the 3 light of death again (error code 0110). Maybe I'll try it again...

bojngles · « **Reply #114 on:** February 28, 2007, 12:48:00 PM »

Hey its me again. After some trial and error, i will have to retract what i said about fixing these things. Heat on the top is not recommended! It could potentially damage the chip.

What i do now is heat from the bottom while putting slight pressure on the gpu/cpu. It will slightly drop. When this happens you know the solder is melted. Next, pull the heat away and continue to put some pressure for 30 seconds until the solder solidifies. This method has not failed me yet. 100 systems still going strong!!!!

PhillyFanRS · « **Reply #115 on:** February 28, 2007, 02:49:00 PM »

QUOTE(bojngles @ Feb 28 2007, 08:55 PM)

Hey its me again. After some trial and error, i will have to retract what i said about fixing these things. Heat on the top is not recommended! It could potentially damage the chip.

What i do now is heat from the bottom while putting slight pressure on the gpu/cpu. It will slightly drop. When this happens you know the solder is melted. Next, pull the heat away and continue to put some pressure for 30 seconds until the solder solidifies. This method has not failed me yet. 100 systems still going strong!!!!

What do i use to put pressure on the chips?

dokworm · « **Reply #116 on:** February 28, 2007, 05:01:00 PM »

I found the heat gun trick worked - for a while. It did reflow and reconnect the solder points, you could move the corners away before but not after, so it worked, but after a while the problem came back as the board flexed and rebroke the connections.
Removing the heatsink clamps and replacing them with a better system (that supports the mobo the way it oughta be) seems to have permanently solved the problem, but time will tell I guess.

mygameswirelesscom · « **Reply #117 on:** March 01, 2007, 11:35:00 PM »

QUOTE(bojngles @ Feb 28 2007, 08:55 PM)

Hey its me again. After some trial and error, i will have to retract what i said about fixing these things. Heat on the top is not recommended! It could potentially damage the chip.

What i do now is heat from the bottom while putting slight pressure on the gpu/cpu. It will slightly drop. When this happens you know the solder is melted. Next, pull the heat away and continue to put some pressure for 30 seconds until the solder solidifies. This method has not failed me yet. 100 systems still going strong!!!!

ydgmms · « **Reply #118 on:** March 01, 2007, 11:58:00 PM »

can you post links to what you do for everyone to see?

I have my first 3RoL + 0102 error coming this weekend. Already got the heat gun and a small idea of what to do. I told him what i had to do and that it was a gamble...

bojngles · « **Reply #119 on:** March 02, 2007, 10:06:00 AM »

QUOTE(ydgmms @ Mar 2 2007, 07:58 AM)

can you post links to what you do for everyone to see?

I have my first 3RoL + 0102 error coming this weekend. Already got the heat gun and a small idea of what to do. I told him what i had to do and that it was a gamble...

I know you arent going to like this but a heatgun is only a temp fix. You could try and use the heatgun but be VERY careful you dont burn those chips. You will need a BGA reflow machine. They range from a few thousand to tens of thousands and more. I recently acquired someone with one to do these repairs. Its a much more guaranteed fix with little chance of messing up the board.

Author Topic: 3 Red Light & Heat Gun (Read 705 times)