Print

[yonsje]

Hi,
I bought an rrod xbox 360 and have been trying to fix it, the xclamp fix method didn't work so I was going to try the heatgun method tomorrow, when I was cleaning of some of the thermal paste off of the gpu I saw what appears to be a capacitor sliced in half, can I fix this?
Also the corner of the die seems to be a little damaged, is this bad?


-Yon

[RDC]

The corner of the die there I wouldn't worry about, and that Cap should be removed and replaced. What it's exact value is though yer guess is as good as any other, it may even be fine with it missing. I doubt either is the cause of the 3RL though.

[oldmike]

I know this is a 360 site but could not find a site like this for the original xbox. If there is one please supply a link.  The xbox I have has an electrolitic capacitor C7G10 that the electrolitic has leaked out. I know it needs to be replaced. The marking on it is 1F 2.5V Is this possible? My understanding is that a 1 farad capacitor would be very large. This one is 8.25mm diameter X 12mm tall. Is this value correct and where can I get a replacement? Thanks for any help.

[RDC]

QUOTE(oldmike @ Jun 8 2009, 09:09 AM)

I know this is a 360 site but could not find a site like this for the original xbox. If there is one please supply a link.  The xbox I have has an electrolitic capacitor C7G10 that the electrolitic has leaked out. I know it needs to be replaced. The marking on it is 1F 2.5V Is this possible? My understanding is that a 1 farad capacitor would be very large. This one is 8.25mm diameter X 12mm tall. Is this value correct and where can I get a replacement? Thanks for any help.

This is just the 360 General Hardware Chat section of the X-S forums, there's a lot more here than the 360.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/

That Capacitor is an AeroGel and it is indeed 1F. You don't have to put a 1F AeroGel back in there though, it's only to hold the clock setting if the XBOX is unplugged and it's only good for a few seconds anyway, about the only thing it's really good for is leaking all over the board and causing damage. The best thing for ya to do with it is remove it, clean up the board and then either leave it empty or just replace it with any value Capapcitor ya feel like, as long as it's 2.5v or higher.

[RDC]

There are no C8C2/C8C3, only C8C2 on the newer version boards and it's a 6.3v 820uF.

If you're referring to the 4 large Capacitors right behind the CPU heatsink those are C6C2/C6C3 and they are 6.3v 2700uF, as is the value of every other Cap ya listed, C7C1/C7C2 and C8D4.

They're filter Caps and should all be in there, but that's no guarantee it'll resolve the issues with it.

[RDC]

It's a Thermal Resistor and shouldn't really have torched like that, doesn't matter which way the replacement gets installed either.

Check your front USB ports and make sure the connector isn't damaged and causing a short. It could have just fried on it's own too, that happens sometimes, but is odd for that kind of part the way it is in the circuit, unless there is a short on the USB connector, and even then the 360 should have shut down before it fried it that bad.

It'll be fine without it, but one of the USB ports up front isn't going to work since the 5v has to go thru that part, so if ya use them it needs to be replaced, and any from any other board will work as a replacement.

Also if the board is torched make sure all of that is cleaned up before powering it back up, the nasty thing about a circuit board burning like that is it'll conduct, like a Resistor, when it's burnt up.

[huskerman99]

QUOTE(Putrid186 @ Aug 6 2009, 04:00 PM)

Thank you for your response.  I swapped it out with another, and tried a couple more tests, im almost positive it is somewhere within the usb port there because the one port furthest from the board is missing the black plastic piece in the middle.  i wanted to replace it but i dont think i have the tools necessary to heat all those soldering points at once.  thanks again for your help!

To remove the USB you dont heat all points at once. As I would do, get a "solder sucker" You heat up each contact individually, when the solder melts, press the solder sucker button and it sucks it up like a syringe. (can also use solder wick but i hate that stuff) There appear to be three posts that hold on the body, but it I believe you will want to unsolder the pins under it labeled 1, 2, 3, etc up to 8.  then simply lift it out slowly. If it sticks a little touch the soldering iron to the leads that look as though they might be sticking a little to the board yet and simply push it sideways with the soldering iron to free it from the contact.  Do that to each one until they are all loose. If you didnt get a good suck, it is sometimes easier to re-solder the lead and then suck it again until you get all or 95% of the solder off the contact. Then put a new one in.  

[andytipping71]

thank you on behalf of ham fisted, careless "bodgers" woirld wide.
yup ive slipped again and managed to knock out  R3n7.
With the mobo inverted and the front edge facing you,
it's located in the rear  right section near the display  connectors, follow a line from the rear right hand leg of the graphics controller heatsink cross [this was what i was trying to remove when i slipped ][email protected]

many thanks
Andy

[RDC]

R3N7 - 10k

[Redfearn]

Yea i had just reapplied thermal paste to my xbox 360 when i smashed a part on the motherboard called C7U1.
Please let me know if you have a part that i can use to replace mine.
thank you

[d-2-d]

Hello,

Can someone tell me the importance of the following and resistance:

c3r2 (back board by ram chip)
c4u1 (back by ram chips)

[Aval0n]

Hello, C5E1 seems to have gone missing from my board!

Could someone please let me know the importance or value of this cap?

Thanks!

[Aval0n]

QUOTE(Aval0n @ Sep 3 2009, 05:26 AM)

Hello, C5E1 seems to have gone missing from my board!

Could someone please let me know the importance or value of this cap?

Thanks!

Sorry it must be late but I didn't see an edit button..

Anyway the cap I was asking about is located next to the GPU bottom right hand corner.  

Thanks!

[RDC]

You only have 15 minutes to edit your post.

C5E1 is a Filter Cap, it'll be alright with it missing. The actual value could be anything really from 0.001uf to 10uf, you'd have to get one from another 360 board and measure it with a Cap Checker or M$ to cough up a parts list to know for sure.

[d-2-d]

Hello,

Can someone tell me the importance of the following and resistance:

c3r2 (bottomof  board by ram chip)
c4u1 (bottom of board by ram chips)