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Author Topic: Xbox 360 Motherboard Component List  (Read 461 times)

ttkkee2

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« Reply #15 on: May 29, 2008, 09:09:00 AM »

Maybe was it 4'7 ,uF?
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gimpydingo

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« Reply #16 on: May 29, 2008, 09:26:00 AM »

Anyone know what these are and where to get one? A friend knocked one off from the backside of the mobo/processor.


http://img522.images...image=icix1.jpg
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RDC

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« Reply #17 on: May 29, 2008, 11:11:00 AM »

QUOTE(ttkkee2 @ May 10 2008, 05:41 PM) View Post

You know the values of this element? C9D4

It's fine missing, if ya want one that's the same value you'll have to pull it from another 360 board, no one has all the component values yet. If ya want a guess I'd say they're just 0.1uf or 0.01uf, they're just filter caps is all, could be anything under 1uf really, 0.47uf would work as well and it doesn't need to be any specific value.

QUOTE(gimpydingo @ May 29 2008, 12:02 PM) View Post

Anyone know what these are and where to get one? A friend knocked one off from the backside of the mobo/processor.
http://img522.images...image=icix1.jpg

They're Capacitors and it's fine missing a few of them, not going to hurt a thing.
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gimpydingo

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« Reply #18 on: May 29, 2008, 12:17:00 PM »

QUOTE(RDC @ May 29 2008, 10:47 AM) View Post

They're Capacitors and it's fine missing a few of them, not going to hurt a thing.


Hmm well it's definitley RRoD and no video. I can hear it boot up, but get 2 red flashign lights....thoughts?
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RDC

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« Reply #19 on: May 29, 2008, 01:19:00 PM »

I think if you think that cap missing is causing it you're not thinking right. wink.gif

2RL is overheating. You've obviously bit off more than ya can chew with this thing. Get out the magnifying glass and go looking for any other missing components or possibly traces that were gouged and are now cut. Could be how you have the heatsinks mounted, could be too loose, could be too tight causing a short or other open on some BGA joint, either way I hope they're at least on there or you'll know why it's throwing the 2RL.
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gimpydingo

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« Reply #20 on: May 29, 2008, 02:45:00 PM »

Thanks for the help. I'll take a look tonight and see what I can find.
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kew1701

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« Reply #21 on: October 16, 2008, 11:23:00 AM »

QUOTE(ttkkee2 @ Jun 25 2008, 11:18 PM) View Post

It works!!! I tried with other capacitor with the same size and colour from an older network card.


Hi,i wanna know if the side matters on how i solder them or not? i mean--->these capacitors have one + and one - side,correct
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CrackHour

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« Reply #22 on: October 21, 2008, 01:31:00 PM »

QUOTE(kew1701 @ Oct 16 2008, 06:59 PM) View Post

Hi,i wanna know if the side matters on how i solder them or not? i mean--->these capacitors have one + and one - side,correct


Is there another nearby, they should orient the same way. PCB's are usually designed that way.
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RDC

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« Reply #23 on: October 21, 2008, 02:18:00 PM »

QUOTE(CrackHour @ Oct 21 2008, 02:07 PM) View Post

How about R3D4 I think they're 1kohm but not sure about wattage or if it matters.

R3D4 is a 60 Ohm 1/16W 0402 SMT Resistor. Ya can use any W rating ya like though.

QUOTE(kew1701 @ Oct 16 2008, 11:59 AM) View Post

Hi,i wanna know if the side matters on how i solder them or not? i mean--->these capacitors have one + and one - side,correct

The small SMT caps with no markings can be installed either way, they are not polarized.
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RDC

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« Reply #24 on: October 21, 2008, 04:31:00 PM »

The size of the Resistor has nothing to do with it's Ohm value, Watt rating yes, but Ohm wise it could be any value really.
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RDC

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« Reply #25 on: October 23, 2008, 04:59:00 AM »

They should do fine, the thing just seems to be a pull-up on the CLK line anyway, so anything around 60Ohms should be alright to use.

Size wise ya may have to mess with it to get it to fit, but the 56Ohm value of it should be alright to use.
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RDC

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« Reply #26 on: October 23, 2008, 09:35:00 PM »

I wouldn't bridge it at all, at least put the 56Ohm in there. Worst case get a 1/8w or 1/4w close to that 60Ohm value and solder wires to it, then the other ends of the wires to the pads where the original Resistor was, that work is a little delicate as well, but at least it'll still be in the circuit like it needs to be.
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RDC

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« Reply #27 on: October 26, 2008, 06:07:00 PM »

Ya don't really think having a conductive liquid on the motherboard is a good idea do ya? If ya can't solder to those spots get someone who can, last thing ya want to do is go making it worse off than it already is.
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RDC

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« Reply #28 on: November 08, 2008, 10:54:00 PM »

You're fine with C5G2 missing, it's not going to cause any problems.
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matgumax

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« Reply #29 on: November 27, 2008, 11:07:00 AM »

Hi, this is a great thread.

I am missing the following transistor (I think it is) U6T1 (it is connected with the eFuse). This was ripped off when I tried to do the xclamp fix. The xbox still worked well until I did the update to the NXE. Then an error e80 appeared. I bought a 5 pin transistor and soldered it onto the board again and now I have the error 0022. Could you please provide me with the exact type U6T1 is?

I also would like to know what CR6T1 is exactly because I need to exchange it also (I guess).

Thanks in advance and best regards,
matgumax
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