Topic: Tell Me I Didn't Just Kill My Box. (Read 64 times)

JuggaloZeke · « **on:** November 16, 2004, 02:17:00 PM »

Alright...

I went to turn it on last night and and didn't boot. So, I open the box and the wire to the d0 happened to be broke, somehow. I tried to fix it and I thought burnt the trace. So then I tried the alternate underside d0... and I lifted that trace... Then, I tried the upper d0 again because it looked like it was still intact but I think I actually burnt it off that time. Finally, I tried taking the chip out and my Xbox and it won't even turn on now, it's doing the same a box would do if you had a chip installed and a bad d0 connection, just flashing green.

Is it fixable, re-chipable?

JuggaloZeke · « **Reply #1 on:** November 16, 2004, 03:45:00 PM »

I have no problem soldering it's just a) this shitty RadioShack iron that overheats and b) the iron tip is huge, and it's the smallest I've been able to find.

Couple those together and try to solder something to the d0, it's a bitch.

EDIT: And please, if you don't have any ideas on how I can go about fixing it, please save your post. Not trying to be an ass, but it's unneccesary.

Sac2K4 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 16, 2004, 04:44:00 PM »

So you ship it to somebudy that can solder... (hint hint)

JuggaloZeke · « **Reply #3 on:** November 16, 2004, 05:17:00 PM »

Aside from the fucking soldering, how do I fix the Xbox?

imagenius · « **Reply #4 on:** November 16, 2004, 10:35:00 PM »

BTW what wattage is your soldering iron? I have used a radio shack 15W soldering iron and the 40W (gotta be careful not to keep the 40W on the board too long cause it gets pretty hot) and I've never had a problem with burning traces too easily and the tips that came with both of them were plenty small to solder d0 connections.

Also are you tinning your tip? If not it may not be heating the solder up fast enough causing you to have to hold the iron up to the board longer than needed. If you aren't tinning it I suggest a $3 can of tip tinner from Radio Shack. Its worth it in my opinion because it works much better than tinning with solder.

JuggaloZeke · « **Reply #5 on:** November 17, 2004, 08:36:00 AM »

I fixed it, I was pretty sure all the was needed was to strip the coating off of the embedded wires but I wasn't 100% sure. But, I fixed the underside d0 and got the chip working as well, yay for me.

About the iron, I use the 15 watt RadioShack iron but I tend to leave it plugged in when I'm working and, mine atleast, overheats. That and I use the "lazy" soldering method and apply solder directly to the iron is what burnt/lifted the traces so easily.

EDIT: Anyone know the average temps an Xbox should run at? I can't find it anywhere and I forget the numbers.

JuggaloZeke · « **Reply #6 on:** November 17, 2004, 11:42:00 AM »

All is good now... except when I boot into the retail kernel the eject light flashes green. I am playing Halo 2 on Live right now, and it is still flashing. WtF?

JuggaloZeke · « **Reply #7 on:** November 17, 2004, 01:27:00 PM »

I got bored of Live and started playing the campaign for fun and it is still flashing, why the hell is it doing that?

thedustycelt · « **Reply #8 on:** November 17, 2004, 02:00:00 PM »

This will sound getto, but if you have an iron with a tip that is too big, grind it down...

You can take a big tip and grind it into a tiny tip, then all you need to do is re-tin the tip.

Another tip is to get a copper scrub pad. It is used for cleaning pots and pans, but it alo works great for cleaning the tip of your iron and removing any excess heat before you start soldering.

JuggaloZeke · « **Reply #9 on:** November 17, 2004, 02:07:00 PM »

Everything is fine... except that blinking. It didn't do that when I booted into Ava, only when I went to the M$ dash and it is still doing it while I play Halo 2. What kind of short would make the eject light blink, especially around the d0?

About the temps, I was running 43C and 50C but it sounded like the GPU fan was being stupid, so I'm obviously running a v1.0. It also says that in my sig.

JuggaloZeke · « **Reply #10 on:** November 19, 2004, 11:21:00 AM »

Err, totally forgot about this thread. But yea... I still have this problem. My guess is it has something to do with the DVD drive because after I was done playing Halo that night I popped the disc out... and it stopped blinking. Then the next day when I put it in it started blinking again.

Also.. when I power off the Xbox it takes ~5 seconds to actually shut off. Never did that before.

JuggaloZeke · « **Reply #11 on:** November 19, 2004, 04:17:00 PM »

And I just noticed something. I've never tried UnleashX before so I decided to try it out today and when I booted into it I noticed "Tray: xxxxx" in the HUD. Turns out it thought the tray was OPEN when it was actually close. So I went and opened and closed the tray and now it says, "Closing."

Could that be why it blinks? And what would make it do that?

Overfur · « **Reply #12 on:** November 19, 2004, 04:19:00 PM »

thedustycelt · « **Reply #13 on:** November 21, 2004, 12:46:00 AM »

If you leave the yellow cable unpluged and run a normal pc dvdrom the light remains flashing and the box thinks the drive is open, even when it is not & you are still able to read from the drive. Perhaps you have damaged the line that provides the door open/close signal. Either in the yellow cable, or the trace on the board. Look at one of those samasung 616 conversion tutorials to figure out which line it is, and follow it through the connector and on the board...

Just a thought...

Author Topic: Tell Me I Didn't Just Kill My Box. (Read 64 times)