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[insertionpics]

does anyon have information on what kind of resistor it is and where i should look to get one? im thinking digikey but still dont know what to get.

[Gumboot]

what box version do you have, so someone can check there box and see if the ccomponent is needed.

Also do you remember knocking it off when you desoldered the pin header.

If there is meant to be a component on that postition then find out what it is (value of componenet and stuff like that) and clean the solder off the pads place component onto the pads and add flux and solder both ends.

Being a surface mount component it will be a liitle hard to do but it can be done. A trick is to tin the tip of your iron with extra solder and as long as you have a good flux applied when you touch the pas with the solder ball on the end of the tip it should just flow onto the joint. Try not to touch the component with your iron it self and bump it.

Good luck

[shivadow]

pin 1 and 10 look fucked 2 me, oh and that resistor missing is a bad sign.

[Lattis2003]

insertionpics,
I think that is a 10k ohms resistor and you can get one from Radio Shack.
Part # 271-1335 which is a 1/4 watt 10k resistor. It won't look the same but should work just fine.

[insertionpics]

its a v.10 xbox.  i do not remember damaging the board or anything so it could have been knocked off before i even got it

[insertionpics]

lattis, thanks a bunch picked em up tonight. as well as a low wattage solder iron. radio shack stil out of flux though :/

[insertionpics]

update:

got the resistors. they were way way bigger hahah so i got creative with the resistor connects and really had to have steady hands. i used a few quick taps of my 15v iron and its on.it snapped off a few times but i think its semi sturdy now: here is a picture if anyone is interested. is it possible to put on backwards? i didnt think so so i just put it on, i also checked for continuity from the bottom side of the board and everything is a-ok [so far... i havnt actually put it together yet]

i was also having continuity problems befrore but i am noticing that some of the point is was trying to connect to still has a wee bit of green film covering them. once it was scratched off it was good to go.



hows it look? i put it on at an angle because straight up wouldve made it too high

[Rodent]

check pin 6,
there is a trace disconnected from it.
repair it from the bottom side of the mainboard

rgds
alex

[insertionpics]

thanks for looking out, i already have a patch wire connected on the bottom for it. pin 5 you mean right?

[Gumboot]

Looks alright to me.

I take it you could not get a Surface mount one.
Oh aswell you cant put them on backwards as they work the same either way.

If you have more trouble with it falling off just add extra solder to the pad and make it go to the lead of the resistor. Do one side then let it cool before you do the other one.

[insertionpics]

ok so where i am at now is i cleaned out all teh lpc holes and used a contact solution to clean up any oxidization. i checked the continuity of all the lpc holes where i could. put in another pinheader paying close attention to flow through and keeping an eye out for drypoint. put it all in and took out the multimeter to check voltage and everything is greenlight go except for pins 15 and 9... which are the 3.3v connections for the X3 chip. and again the 3.3v LED does not come on. which is the same problem i had before.

so i think i need to make a wire jumper patch but where do i need to patch pins 9 and 15 to? i have been looking for a diagram to see where but all diagrams i see skip over pins 9 and 15.

so now with everything checked and seemingly good i am kind of back to where i  was. im not going to be one of those guys "NO WAY IS IT MY SOLDERING SKILLZ BECAUSE  IT IS AWESOME" because that usually comes to bite em in the ass. but i do have an even shiney conical solder on each pin with out the point tip you get when the tin burns away. so now im looking for what else i can do. does a patch seem like a bad idea? it worked for pin 5 and the debug via. maybe it can fix pins 9 and 15

thanks

[cokebottles]

ey man, been following this thread for a bit but aint posted. I found this pic in a tutorial for the XIR - but i thought the whearabouts on v1.0 psu of the 3.3v and 3.3v stb could be of use to you. You could rebuild the 3.3v LPC point directly from here.  hope that helps and good luck!!

[thedustycelt]

That resistor looks good.

You can stick a dab of hot glue onto the board to keep the resistor from moving around...

[insertionpics]

i read the stcky xecuter posted about the 3.3v


but i am boned because even pin 9 doesnt get the voltage...

so should i jump pin 9 to the power block and then jump pin 9 to 15 or should i go right from 15?

[cokebottles]

id say patch direct from the power plug - that way your not relying on the integrity of the mobo traces. The difference between 3.3v and 3.3v stby is that (i think its this way round..) 3.3v stby is always on (even when consol is in standby) and 3.3v is just live when the consol is turned on.

You can check this realy easily with a voltmeter. Hope that helps dude - keep us posted!