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[moochi]

Hi,

I used command "nandpro usb: -w16 nand.bin 0 50"
for update my console to 14699

BUT now I have this rrod:
http://dl.dropbox.co...22 18.35.29.jpg

I only disconnected the GRD point on the chip (all the caps are still no it).

Should I try to take off all the chip???

Thanks.

[Dicko316]

Its looking more and more like the CPU_PLL_BYPASS point, i'd try removing the glue from there, dont just try pulling it off heat it up till its taccy/soft then gently try removing it. Then once its all removed de-solder that point and try booting again, if it boots then thats your problem, try a bit of electicians tape over the points you dont want to touch. Like my picture below.

(IMG:http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/2725/img0419yq.jpg)

The point you would solder to is where the arrow is pointing and the red line is the route you would put the wire. This avoids the problem areas above this where the onboard caps are too.

[moochi]

Hi.

I remove everything from board (glitch \ wire) and right now when I power the box after 15 sec. it give me the 3rrod like in the pic, after 2-3 Min the right,down led is turning off and only 2 left stay blinking...

I think that my FT6U7 point are ruined because I can't placed a soldering on it..  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flamethrower.gif)
I do can "stuck" a thin wire in it.

Anyhow I can't even take my console back to "original" life...
 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

This post has been edited by moochi: Apr 22 2012, 08:23 PM

[Dicko316]

Take a look here on how to repair a few different points, http://www.xboxhacke...p?topic=17051.0

But i think you should be able to boot without point FT6U7, maybe try looking for a different problem. Read the nand back again and compare it to your original, you may of got a corruption when writing. If it doesnt match then re-write back the original.

You may even just have RROD.

[moochi]

QUOTE(Dicko316 @ Apr 22 2012, 10:29 PM)

Take a look here on how to repair a few different points, http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=17051.0

But i think you should be able to boot without point FT6U7, maybe try looking for a different problem. Read the nand back again and compare it to your original, you may of got a corruption when writing. If it doesnt match then re-write back the original.

You may even just have RROD.

Hi dicko46.

I think I'm killed my box.
after suck the flux at point STBY_CLK I saw that the cap was sucked too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Now when I press the power the box not even power on... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I think he dead!!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
any last idea??

** UPDATE **
I found a solution, just make a bridge without using the cap.. (who say that he is relevant lol)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-22%2023.40.40.jpg
but still no pic... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Dame this box is like a can - 9 souls ...

This post has been edited by moochi: Apr 22 2012, 10:46 PM

[Dicko316]

They are not caps they are resistors, also they are 0 (Zero) ohm resistors so are basically just jumpers, you can connect then with either wire like you have done or by solder, like when you bridged the Phat points on the glitch chip.

By looking at the picture the resistor above, at point R4B6 looks like its torn off or missaligned.

You dont really need that whole wire, just cut the wire just after the right pad at point R4B24, then remove the wire you soldered further down the STBY_CLK point.

This post has been edited by Dicko316: Apr 22 2012, 11:14 PM

[moochi]

Hi,

So there is another day with no progress, Still solid green no pic.

and this is all the facts:

1. my nand back to orig - verified (write the 50 block make all nand dump and compare to first one - OK)
2. it take about 37-40 sec to get rrod.
3. tried to use AV \ HDMI
4. tried to connect all component (DVD \ FANS \ HDD)
5. the nand reader is still connected (do I need to solder it off)

I attached all the points that I solder \ de-solder for you check if there is sorts or something...

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-24%2011.26.40.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-24%2011.28.42.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-24%2011.29.49.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-24%2011.26.11.jpg

If you need some pic from other location just ask...

10X

This post has been edited by moochi: Apr 24 2012, 10:51 AM

[moochi]

QUOTE(moochi @ Apr 24 2012, 12:49 PM)

Hi,

So there is another day with no progress, Still solid green no pic.

and this is all the facts:

1. my nand back to orig - verified (write the 50 block make all nand dump and compare to first one - OK)
2. it take about 37-40 sec to get rrod.
3. tried to use AV \ HDMI
4. tried to connect all component (DVD \ FANS \ HDD)
5. the nand reader is still connected (do I need to solder it off)

I attached all the points that I solder \ de-solder for you check if there is sorts or something...

http://dl.dropbox.co...24 11.26.40.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.co...24 11.28.42.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.co...24 11.29.49.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.co...24 11.26.11.jpg

If you need some pic from other location just ask...

10X

I don't think this is RROD from heat because I let the box seat in heat like 5 min.
And If I remember the  RROD from heat appear like 2-3 sec after turning the box on.  

[Dicko316]

Do you know how to get the Secondery error codes for rrod? Wait till RROD then hold sync, then press eject, the ROL will flash a code, on the 1st press it will flash 1st number, then still holding sync press eject again, this will give 2nd number, repeat this 4 times, for the code, the 5th press should return it to your original RROD, unless there is more than one problem where it may flash out another 4 digit code.
4LEDs = 0
1LED = 1
2LEDs = 2
3LEDs = 3
Once you have the code look here for more info http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=484726

I would imagine it will be 0022 or something CPU related.

Looking at your pictures it looks like you have also torn off the pad at point CPU_PLL_BYPASS, the one on bottom side of CPU, look back at the page I posted before on how to repair this point. Your STBY_CLK point looks like it should be ok, its ugly but should be ok, just remove that little bit of trace wire thas hanging off from where the blob of glue is.

You can leave the nand reader attached this wont interfere with anything.

Good luck

[moochi]

Hi.

had 0022 - FIXED
Now I have 0110 = E20 - likely a Ram error, this can be caused by a cold or bridged solder joint on one of the Ram chips. = Form AV cable
And 0102 = E18 - from HDMI

I'm tring to let the console heat for 3 min and see what happen... - maybe its regular rrod...

and now I get....
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-24%2016.13.12.jpg

My console looks like HELL.... - I has more wires then telephony switchboard center.

So, Who we continue from here???

This post has been edited by moochi: Apr 24 2012, 03:18 PM

[Dicko316]

So its now booting official dash?!?

PM me your email address too, communication on here is just too slow.

This post has been edited by Dicko316: Apr 24 2012, 03:37 PM