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[gammmmes]

make sure you flashed the original firmware back to the system.. wrong firmware can cause 0022.. remove all cables check for splatter.. its usually shinier then other solder.. make sure nothings bridging..  maybe even gently brush the board off making sure you can see if something falls off...

if none of that works then do a proper reflow on the gpu then ram chips that are under the heat sink..

[moochi]

Hi all.

I’m trying to make my zephyr CB 4578 box RGH with no luck using this chip

And this is my story:
At start my console was 9199 dash.
I dump my NAND 3 times (hade one BB 0X1B5 all times)
Solder the chip use this diagram

Make .ecc file with 360 Multi Builder v0.93 and write to console.
Write FW (zephyr.xsvf) to chip from this file:

Solder the chip to xbox, turn it on and…. NOTHIG – only solid green light.
This is what I tried already:
1.   Write ecc file again.
2.   Re-Program chip again.
3.   Check with AV \ HDMI cables
4.    Check wiring (re-solder all points over  3 times)
5.   Jumpering on x360glich:
a.   Jumper R3 only
b.   Jumper slim points (near C5) + R3
c.   Jumper Slim points only
d.   De-jumpering slim + R3 points

Because the chip don’t have led Every time I turned the console I tried to hear the sound of “ticking” of the chip \ cpu \ fans – NOTHIG

Please help?  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

[Dicko316]

Return the chip to default configuration, then try this.

Add a capacitor of a value between 680pf to 100nf from points J4A and J1(I normally just use 100nf or 68nf), then also have a capacitor of around 470pf at point J6, at the other end of the cap solder the Cpu reset wire.

A way to test if soldering is good is to write back the original nand, 1st 50 blocks should do (nandpro usb: -w16 nand.bin 50 0) then disconnect ground from the gltich chip and boot the xbox, it should boot with no errors, if you get the xbox to boot, then reconnect the ground, flash the .ecc file with the +w16 command and try again.

Your bad block should not interfere with the gltich as its outside the first 50 blocks.

To add a LED to the chip try this http://imageshack.us.../507/ledsw.jpg/ its LED, resistor then wire to grnd. Measure the voltage across the points to work out the resistor value http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

I would advise switching to a coolrunner chip or similar as they are far superior that these chips, there is even a gltich chip II now too.

Hope this helps you out, happy gltiching.

[moochi]

QUOTE(Dicko316 @ Apr 19 2012, 03:16 PM)

Return the chip to default configuration, then try this.

Add a capacitor of a value between 680pf to 100nf from points J4A and J1(I normally just use 100nf or 68nf), then also have a capacitor of around 470pf at point J6, at the other end of the cap solder the Cpu reset wire.

Hi,
Thanks for your replay.
but as far as I read this a solution for slim ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

is there another idea?

[Dicko316]

Nope caps like this are for Phats, even Team Xecuter website reccomends 68nf cap if your having difficulty. Zephyrs are hard to glitch anyways matey.

[moochi]

QUOTE(Dicko316 @ Apr 19 2012, 05:29 PM)

Nope caps like this are for Phats, even Team Xecuter website reccomends 68nf cap if your having difficulty. Zephyrs are hard to glitch anyways matey.

Thanks I\ll give it a shot.

BTW
does the wires long  have importance?

and about the chip - only short R3 ?

This post has been edited by moochi: Apr 19 2012, 03:36 PM

[Dicko316]

The length of wire shouldnt be a problem if you try these 2 caps. They help stabalize the signal.  

Yes only short R3 as in the diagram http://www.x360glitc...s/glitchfat.jpg

[SNAAAKE]

try using j-runner? i had a zephyar that wasnt glitching with the regular files from tx site. no led on the chip. then I flashed it with j-runner and it started working. dunno how/why

[moochi]

QUOTE(Dicko316 @ Apr 19 2012, 03:16 PM)

Return the chip to default configuration, then try this.

Add a capacitor of a value between 680pf to 100nf from points J4A and J1(I normally just use 100nf or 68nf), then also have a capacitor of around 470pf at point J6, at the other end of the cap solder the Cpu reset wire.

Hi,
I returned the board to default (only R3)
tried the following:
1. add 100nf points J4A with 470pf at point J6 => NO SUCEESS
2. add 68nf points J4A with 470pf at point J6 => NO SUCEESS

Next step?   (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

BTW
1. I bought 220nf \ 330nf \ 390nf \ 500nf \ 680nf also - can something help
2. maybe RGH2 can help (can this be apply on this chip)?

 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

[Dicko316]

I'd check over the glitch chip first and see if any components are not soldered correctly. You could also bypass the diodes and connect it directly to capacitor C5B6 (the side closest to the CPU and GPU) for a more stable volage i think its around 1.8volts.

But to be honest I'd just get a TX coolrunner or another glitch chip with a LED and better components.

Post some pics of your wiring and soldering too I may see something you have missed.

This post has been edited by Dicko316: Apr 20 2012, 07:54 PM

[moochi]

QUOTE(Dicko316 @ Apr 20 2012, 09:52 PM)

I'd check over the glitch chip first and see if any components are not soldered correctly

Maybe voltages are my problem?
Can this be my solution ?
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=738658

QUOTE(Dicko316 @ Apr 20 2012, 09:52 PM)

You could also bypass the diodes and connect it directly to capacitor C5B6 (the side closest to the CPU and GPU) for a more stable volage i think its around 1.8volts.

sorry but I didn't understand, what to add where?

QUOTE(Dicko316 @ Apr 20 2012, 09:52 PM)

But to be honest I'd just get a TX coolrunner or another glitch chip with a LED and better components.

I forgot to buy a LED when I bought the caps but I have old PC case - can I take the power led from it and solder to the 360glitch like in the diagram you sent me (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/507/ledsw.jpg) ?

QUOTE(Dicko316 @ Apr 20 2012, 09:52 PM)

Post some pics of your wiring and soldering too I may see something you have missed.

(IMG:http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-18%2022.25.21.jpg)
(IMG:http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-18%2022.25.49.jpg)
(IMG:http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-18%2022.26.44.jpg)
(IMG:http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-18%2022.27.29.jpg)
(IMG:http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-18%2022.27.52.jpg)
(IMG:http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-18%2022.28.07.jpg)

!!! I must beat this box !!!

And Thanks again that you helping me

This post has been edited by moochi: Apr 21 2012, 08:08 PM

[Takashi]

#1 - That chip is the worst i've ever come across.

#2 - Not one of your soldered joints on the chip are done in any acceptable fashion, they look like hell, sorry to tell you.

#3 - because of the hot glue, we can't even see the other joints.

#4 - That chip is the worst i've ever come across, heh, truth.

This post has been edited by Takashi: Apr 22 2012, 12:44 AM

[Dicko316]

(IMG:http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/9075/sdc10174w.jpg)


The capacitor is circled, then where the arrow is pointing to, is where you would solder the wire to. You would have to look on the glitch chip and find where the end of the voltage pulldown chain is, buy the looks of it its some where around where the resistor R1A is. Or maybe just at the point where the last diode is.

But to be honest I'd try and remove that glue first as there is no way to tell or test if your soldering or connections are good. This may be hard without pulling off components, heat up the glue first with a heat gun, then use solvent to clean up after. You might be best trying the alternate point for a few of the points first, this will save you destroying the xbox whist removing the glue.

Your soldering looks pretty bad too, I'd have another go at a few of the connections and try cleaning the glitch chip up with a bit of solvent. Is the brown marks burns or flux? because if its burns then you may of burnt a trace.

Do you have any means of testing continuity? like a multimeter? Because you could do with testing all points and even the Glitch chip.

Where are you located? I dont mean to be unkind but you may be best sending this to someone who knows a bit more than you do, and who has a bit better equipment and experience.

This post has been edited by Dicko316: Apr 22 2012, 03:04 AM

[moochi]

Hi Dicko316 & Takashi

First,
Many thanks for helping me with this.

Second,
I know this chip is crap but this is what my brother bought.
I think I’m starting to take this RGH personally (this is for private use and not for business so I have "time") and I MUST BEAT THIS BOX .
The chip looks like this because it made by very low material and as you can see I made a lot of tests with caps & wires… but I don’t think (hope so) that this is not my problem.
Because I already solder all points 2 times I don’t think they are my problem (Unless I soldered to wrong points)

I’m not “formal electronic technician” but I’m doing my best, I already:
* JTAGED 2 consoles (Falcon \ Jasper)
* connect 3.5" hdd to Xenon box without connectors - solder Sata cable to board...
* solder some JIGs for Galaxy S phones
Everything worked at first shot (there I used hot glue too).

I do have multimeter, but to be honest I don’t know how to use it for professional use I use it most of time to check shorts…

Third,
I had a tough but I can find someone that confirm or reject it...
My original dash was 9199, and on it I write the ecc file. (BTW the ecc files that generate from “best pig ecc generator” & “360 Multi Builder v0.93” was different in FC /B command – right now I’m using the ecc from the “360 Multi Builder v0.93”)

and my question is:

Is there any connection between the original dash ver and the ecc file? - If yes, maybe my problem is that the 9199 is not supported by this ecc file and I need first update my orig dash to 14699 make dumps, generate ecc (tell me what app to use) and write it to box, and them everything will work like charm? ??


I will be very happy if you will send me tasks and I’ll report back with answers, so In what direction you think that I need to start?

Thanks again.

This post has been edited by moochi: Apr 22 2012, 10:36 AM

[Dicko316]

I fully understand you ending up getting emotionly involved in a project, untill you have it beat, it happens to me all the time and thats what I love about modding consoles. But applying the hotglue straight away i think you may of just messed up big style.

The two points that are the most problematic are points C3B2 (right pad, near HANA chip) and CPU_PLL_BYPASS under R7R17 (under CPU), if you have the wire even slightly off then it just doesn't glitch.
If any or both of these are messed up then your going to have to remove that glue, and i think you are going to have a nightmare trying to remove it, probably irreparable damage.

I'd even check your X-clamp replacement washers and screw are not shotring something out, I had one Xbox where the heatsink was grounding out because the washer was touching the Motherboard. Maybe try some plastic washers.

You could use the multimeter set to measure resistance, from an alternate point to the gltich chip, you are looking for a reading of 0 or near to 0. But this wont show if you have a short between your point and another one close to it.

No offence but next time I'd advise you get the system up and running first then secure it after with glue when you know 100% its good. Also comparing this to a JTAG mod is a bit soft as this is way harder to achieve than a jtag mod. There are so many points that can cause problems, then there is wire length, thickness, caps, voltages, interfearence from onboard caps etc etc....

I'm sorry to say this but you maybe best just selling it on and trying again on another Xbox but with a better gltich chip, or just buy a pre modded one.