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[Kamse]

@Marcus:
Try this one, it's been reported working when the others didn't:

[playonlcd]

QUOTE(c14nz @ Dec 8 2011, 01:37 PM)

Technitian3 you have any idea how i can put a led on the glitche signal.....on your oprah board? thanks

The led for glitch signal has to be installed on pin 27 on xilinx cip.


If anyone has gerber files or eagle for Oprah it would be very handy for a professional version.

Thanks!

[kipper2k]

QUOTE(Farid @ Dec 12 2011, 03:39 PM)

What is the usage of pad 3.3v?

Pin 5 (I/O) of XC2C64A is still floating in schematic and PCB, what is the usage of it?

Pad 5 is not required, i forgot to remove it from the template for the CPLD, you can solder pin 5 to it with no worries.

There are 2 x 3.3v pads on the board, they are tied into each other so you can get 3.3v by connecting to either of those pads, the reason i created the 3 pin header (Grd, 1.8, and 3.3v) is so i can use my little power board to provide the required voltages to program the CPLD without hooking it up to the 360


 Here is link to the info of my power board that plugs into a regular USB port ...

http://forums.xbox-s...&...t&p=4839872

QUOTE(marcus.miranda @ Dec 12 2011, 03:14 PM)

Guys,

I was trying to program my Slim X360Glitch yesterday with the 360gcprog and everything I could get was to see a message that didn't help in nothing. Something like: TDO seems to be stuck at 1.
I used GliGli schematic paired with Ck3 Pro for the 3.3 volts. I used 1x220Omhs, 3x4148 and 3 3k3Ohms just like the schematic ask me to use. Checked the soldering and everything seems ok.

The funny thing is that even if I run the software with nothing plugged on the LPT port, it shows me the "TDO seems to be stuck at 1" message.

I tried configuring the BIOS option for the LPT mode to EPP, ECC, Bi-Diretional EPP+ECC and nothing.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

 Use Xilinx Lab tools,  the 360gcprog is very picky, i give up using it, i use Xilinx lab tools all the time which works fine using LPT (the Gli Gli schematic) and also the USB Xilinx programmer (model DLC9G). The one listed below is the one i use for USB, it works nicely and is probably the cheapest you will find. The header on my board fits the connector on the USB programmer (just need to swap a couple of wires to match up signals)

http://www.ebay.ca/i...=item3cbc4bafaa

[marcus.miranda]

Thanks Kipper and Kamse!
I'll try first Kipper's advice than Kamse, in case I'm still not able to program the chips.

[Orka]

QUOTE(Farid @ Dec 14 2011, 07:33 AM)

Now what about 5v? Why it is in your USB power board?

If you need it for something else i suppose.

[marcus.miranda]

Hello Guys,

I finished one Slim here and it's kind of taking long to glitch and some small times don't glitch at all.
I'm using a X360Glitch for Slim with a 330pF capacitor instead of the stock 220pF and shortest possible wire lengths of every solder point but FT4R2, which I have a 35cm length wire coiled under the board.

Some few times it takes 20s (or less) to glitch, another times (most of the times, actually) 50s or more.
And some fewer times it even glitch.
I have the box all together, I mean, the DVD is there but not the xbox plastic case.

Is there anything I can try to improve the glitch timing, like changing capacitor, increasing the wires length or anything else?

I'm asking because when I was testing with all wires long and the chip "floating" above the mainboard hold by the wires and with a 270pF capacitor, it was glitching most of the times in 15s to less, then I cut the wires and fixed the chip near the cooler and it started to take longer to glitch.

Thank you

[kipper2k]

QUOTE(Orka @ Dec 14 2011, 01:45 PM)

If you need it for something else i suppose.

yup, its available so i figured i'd include a pin out for it

QUOTE(Farid @ Dec 14 2011, 07:33 AM)

OK 3.3v is needed for programming XC2C64A which in the tutorial it is supplied from Xbox motherboard.

BUT are you sure it needs 1.8v from USB? I think XC2C64A needs it instead of three 4148 diode and it comes from middle pin of U5B2 regulator at the stage of placing the glitch board inside of the Xbox NOT at the stage of programming it, since in the tutorial connecting a DIP socket for CPLD and required components as well as three 4148 diode, comes after programming CPLD, so I can conclude that :

3.3v is needed for programming XC2C64A (It can be supplied from Xbox motherboard or USB)

1.8v is needed for XC2C64A at the stage which it is inside of the Xbox 360 (It can be supplied from three 4148 diode or middle pin of U5B2 regulator)

Now what about 5v? Why it is in your USB power board?

The reason i created this little powerboard is to supplement my new Fat/slim boards.  My new Fat/Slim boards do not have a 1.8v regulator (and associated caps and diodes) on the glitch board. This reduces the cost by $1 (which people get the benefit of saving, and i benefit by less time building). I can build and program the glitch boards without the need to wire it up to the 360 using pogo pins (google it) so no soldering reguired to the 360 for me to get them ready for programming free installation.
  Because the 1.8v regulator is no longer on the Glitch board you just need to run a wire from the 1.8v regulator on the 360 motherboard to the glitch board.


 If you take a look at the powerboard it will actually provide at the pins 1.5v, 1.7v, 1.8v, 3.2v, 3.3v and 5v, so its a handy little means of supplying a light power supply source for gadgets etc.

[Technitian3]

QUOTE(Farid @ Dec 14 2011, 10:14 PM)

Still you didn't mentions the main part that I need : WHICH STAGE?

The glitch board needs 1.8v :

1. At the stage of programming XC2C64A

2. At the stage of placing glitch board inside of Xbox

3. At the both of stages!

Sorry to bother you but I really need this info. Thanks in advance

1. yes
2. yes
3. yes

[kipper2k]

QUOTE(Farid @ Dec 15 2011, 10:17 AM)

According to Razkar tutorial I feel that CPLD and XC2C64A don't need 1.8v for PROGRAMMING.
As I said before supplying 1.8v for pin 5 of CPLD or pin 15 of XC2C64A comes after programming CPLD in Razkar tutorial which it implies CPLD (or XC2C64A) doesn't need any 1.8v for programming.

Now there are three possibility :
1. I have misunderstood Razkar tutorial
2. You and Kipper2k have misunderstood Razkar tutorial
3. Razkar wrote the tutorial wrong

If you don't want to add it, then don't.  try both options and see what happens.  I cannot program my boards unless 1.8v reference voltage is applied

here is a pic of my new slim... as you can see 1.8 is applied to the board from the 3 pin header fed from my powerboard to it. if i dont apply that then the cpld will not program.



 I also added a couple of pads on the rst line so people could play around with different value caps to try to find the sweet spot of their slim

[kipper2k]

QUOTE(Farid @ Dec 15 2011, 06:42 PM)

Then why not setup the board in this way which is more simple, so that at programming stage the Glitch Board just need one 1.8v from USB :

Separate pin 35 (VCC AUX) from pin 26 (VCC IO2)

Connect pin 35 (VCC AUX) to pin 15 (VCC)

Pin 35 (VCC AUX) + Pin 15 (VCC) --> 1.8v (At programming stage connect them to USB through a LF18 / At final stage connect them to U5B2 regulator)

Pin 26 --> 3.3v (At final stage connect it to J2B1.7)

 I don't understand why all the changes necessary. It is simple for me to provide the 1.8v for "out of the box" programming so that if someone buys a board from me it is already programmed which saves them the hassles of worrying about this. It can still be programmed in the box so to speak if new code comes out. The way i have designed the board is the most simplest, fastest, cheapest way of being able to program the boards without having to solder any wires. If other people want buy an unprogrammed glitch board and need the 1.8v regulator or tie in to the 1.8v supplied by the 360 motherboard it is up to them. Some people don't have the time, equipment or expertise to do this themselves so this option works great

[kipper2k]

QUOTE(Kamse @ Dec 17 2011, 05:33 PM)

Just a few questions.
Should i buy Single Sided or Double Sided PCB boards in order to make this ?



Where do you guys buy yours ? I'm checking EBay right now with this:

Single sided: 1 Pcs Copper Clad Laminate Circuit Boards FR4 PCB 120mm x 180mm Single Sided
Double sided: 1x Copper Clad Laminate Circuit Boards FR4 PCB Double Side 12cmx18cm 120mmx180mm

Thanks.

\

You need 2 sided boards.  I am selling the bare boards for $1.50 each and $1.00 for each extra so iif you want to save the hassles. let me know and i can send you some. (they would probably fit in an envelope so it would be cheap

[marcus.miranda]

QUOTE(kipper2k @ Dec 15 2011, 12:46 PM)

If you don't want to add it, then don't.  try both options and see what happens.  I cannot program my boards unless 1.8v reference voltage is applied

here is a pic of my new slim... as you can see 1.8 is applied to the board from the 3 pin header fed from my powerboard to it. if i dont apply that then the cpld will not program.



 I also added a couple of pads on the rst line so people could play around with different value caps to try to find the sweet spot of their slim

Kipper,
This board looks cleaner. Congratz man!
Can you add the eagle files? I already have your new fat and I really want to give both designs a try.

Thx man!

[Kamse]

I already asked for it and he kindly shared them.
Here they are : http://www.kipper2k.com/lptboard.zip

Edit:
Hum... forget it, it's not the same board, i just woke up from a bad night. Anyway, i saw the files several pages ago.

[marcus.miranda]

QUOTE(Kamse @ Dec 22 2011, 10:47 AM)

I already asked for it and he kindly shared them.
Here they are : http://www.kipper2k.com/lptboard.zip

Edit:
Hum... forget it, it's not the same board, i just woke up from a bad night. Anyway, i saw the files several pages ago.

Hehehe!
Bad nights! Completely understandable
Well, I already have one slim board from Kipper, but it's the one with the mini-USb stuff. The one he posted an image some replies back looks very clean for me... I'd like to give'em a try.
But thanks anyway for your reply

Cheers!

[c14nz]

i add a led for glitche signal and is made in eagle (it's based on Technitian3 design) pin 17 need a jumper to gnd