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[Bertis]

Now the drive wont spin up on power on. Its stuck close cant get it to open or respond to anything. The drive was flashed erased and flashed multiple times with jungle flasher successfully. I tried ixtreme 1.6 first about 10 times. Then tried 1.51 to see if it would change anything. The disc tray will still not open, ive tried using the eject button and using the controller on the dashboard. Everything is working fine why is the disc tray not responding? Where is the push hole to manually open it, i might try to see if it will read any games if i can get it open. Thanks for the help in advance.

Also i have visually inspected the drive board, no damage and everything looks intact, like it was when i first popped it open. Gotta be a fix for this, my buddy is gonna be pissed. lol

This post has been edited by Bertis: Aug 5 2009, 07:17 AM

[letsmod]

Check all 0 resistor fuses

[Bertis]

not new to flashing but am not familiar with where those would be located at, dvd drive board, mb?

Also took off top cover popped in game, booted up and dashboard just stays with reading disc but the drive never spins up at all?? Thanks for your quick reply i hope to get this thing knocked out tonight.

[Bertis]

ok i googled 0 resistor fuses to the xbox 360 and for the lite on drive and found nothing, would you care to ellaborate on that please? Thanks man, much appreciated.

[letsmod]

It's midnight here and I am laying in bed.  I will take a pic in the morning, but they are easy to find they have a zero printed on them 2 near laser ribbon and 2 or 3 near the R707 point

[Bertis]

Ok i found the 3 next to the r707 point, just got my multimeter out only to find it wont fucking work either. So how would i test these points, using dc setting on the multimeter to see if power will go through from each side of each resistor fuse? Is this the definate cause or could it be something else? Thanks for the help,

[jappe84]

Are you absolutely certain that you extracted the key? I understand that you have flashed it a million times but you never mention extracting the key successfully.

[run187]

look like it hasent been flashed corretly thats what normaly happens when drivers wont eject or you forgot to outro the drive myself i would reflash get the key from ixtreme or use the one you should have backed up making sure source is same as target key wise
if you just went ahead and flashed without a valid key and didnt save said key then that box is fubar i would assume you dumped key first mind click get key from ixtreme dump that file see what the key is drive will need to be half open i think

This post has been edited by run187: Aug 5 2009, 09:14 PM

[Bertis]

QUOTE(run187 @ Aug 5 2009, 09:12 PM)

 myself i would reflash get the key from ixtreme

What do u mean get key from ixtreme?  i got the key extracted no problem with my modified cell phone usb cable. Extracted that fucker like 6 times, it matched up everytime.

Got my multimeter working, what setting should i use on the multimeter for the dvd pcb? I assume 10 volt dc but theres a couple different dc settings on mine.

Thanks

[Bertis]

Just tried erasing and flashing again, was sure to send outro to dvd drive after successfuly flashing it. Sent it, xbox light was blinking for a few minutes, power down, power up, the drive still acts as if its dead, no spinning, wont open, close.

When i press eject the power light blinks once, which is wierd because a fully functional drive usually blinks multiple times when u open/ close the tray right? If anyone knows what the one blink means, that would be great. Maybe it just means no connectivity to the drive tray?? I dunno

[apease11]

Did your computer freeze during the first flash?  This sounds exactly like what BoNG420 was talking about in the Bricked LiteOn thread.  http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=673708

[Bertis]

jungle flasher froze a couple times when I was trying to erase it, but all flashes were smooth and verified. Computer never froze throughout the entire process. I have nforce chipset has always worked flawlessly



This post has been edited by Bertis: Aug 6 2009, 03:40 AM

[Tron[ADS]]

QUOTE(Bertis @ Aug 6 2009, 01:20 AM)

Got my multimeter working, what setting should i use on the multimeter for the dvd pcb? I assume 10 volt dc but theres a couple different dc settings on mine.

Thanks

Well the only method to absolutely conclusively test those fuses is to desolder one side from the board and use a multimeter on resistance mode. There should be 0 ohms accross them. You can of course test them in situ, usualy without any problems, but if a component nearby has gone short circuit rather than open circuit, its rare, but possible to have a misleading result if there is an alternative path for the current to flow. You can also use your DC range (10V would be fine), keep your ground the same and touch either side of each fuse...the voltage on either side of the individual fuses should be identical. If its not, the fuse has definitely blown, as there is no measurable volt drop accross a fuse.

[Bertis]

Ok so all 3 or the 000 fuses have 0 ohms across them, voltage looks good. Now what? U said there were 2 more near the laser ribbon? Didn't see those, the ones by r707 had 000 printed on them. Those R the only fuses with 000 that I see on the pcb.

This post has been edited by Bertis: Aug 6 2009, 03:56 PM

[Bertis]

I've got 2 more questions if anyone can answer please

1. The erase and flash went fine in JF but the drive won't eject, is it possible to get different results as far as the eject working again if I were to erase and flash in dos with dosflash32?

2. If I can't get this drive spinning and ejecting, I've got the key, inquiry, identify, dummy. Bin, all correctly match up to the digits printed on the DVD drive. What would be the best drive to buy to replace this one. Should I buy another lite on and risk this happening again, as I really have no idea what I did to cause this problem, or should I buy a Benq and spoof it as a lite on? Or is there another better solution.

Thanks for ylthe help guys.