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[ZeroCoolXbox]

This thread is ONLY for people who have a LiteOn that has the "Open Tray" bug after flashing iXtreme. Please only post if this has happened to you. This is also a SURVEY to gather information, so please be concise and answer all the questions if you can.

The "Open Tray" bug is where after a seemingly good dump, firmware creation, and flash, your LiteOn will not recognize Originals, Movie DVDs, or Backups. This is different from a bad key flash, since Movies also don't work. This is the typical behavior once a laser goes bad. Sometimes the laser may still emit red light, but will not read.

Please answer the following questions, all information should be on the drive, or your method:

1. ) What is your (LiteOn) drive's Hardware Revision, Manufacture Date, and Firmware Version?
        - This information is printed right on the top of your drive, on the label.
   
2. a.) Were you upgrading from a previous version of iXtreme? If so, what version?
   b.) If you were flashing a brand new/virgin drive, was it from Retail or Repair/Refurbished?
   
3. ) What program were you using to flash?
        - If you used dosflash, please state if you used dosflash32 (Windows) or dosflash16 (Dos).
   
4. ) What were you using to power the Xbox 360 drive? (CK3, Xbox 360, or something else?)
        - If you used different power sources for different stages, state what for which stage.
   
5. ) Did you ground your drive (alligator clip to PC chassis, rest metal on metal, etc) during the process? If so, which?
   
6. ) Did you disconnect your laser prior to flashing?
   
7. ) Were there any notable problems or errors during the dump/fw creation/flash process?
        - If you had a "VIA freeze", forgot to power cycle during erase, got a serial error, bricked your drive and had to recover from dos, anything out of the ordinary.
   
8. ) Before the flash, did you test the drive with original games?
        - Some people flashed without checking to see if the drive worked with originals first.
   
9. ) Were you able to solve your open tray/bad laser problem by any method? If so, please state.

Just as a sanity check:

• ) After the flash, did you test with a DVD movie (regular, not burned)? Did it work?
• ) After the flash, did you test with an Original game? Did it work?
• ) After the flash, did you test with a Backup game? Did it work?

Hopefully this will help figure out what is going on. If you have any additional information you feel you want to contribute, please attach it to the bottom of you post after the survey.

Also, please refrain from posting merely to ask how to fix it, as I not anyone else knows at this point. Some people claim swapping lasers with a Benq fixed it, others claim pushing the laser down with their finger fixed it. I don't know if either work, and I believe it is speculation.

And let me say, THANK YOU for contributing meaningful information. Everyone appreciates it.

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Reserved for results/updates.

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Since I am posting this question, I'll go first: (This was a flash I witnessed, a friend did it)

1.) H/w Revision A0A1, firmware 74850C, I think it was an Oct. '08
2b.) Brand new drive, back from Repair
3.) Dosflash16 and JungleFlasher 1.5.1, multiple flashes
4.) Powered with CK3 for everything
5.) Not at first, second+ attempts he placed it touching the computer chassis.
6.) No, did not disconnect laser
7.) Hung up during erase first attempt with JungleFlasher, used l-o-eras and Dosflash16 to recover.
8.) He did not test with originals before flashing
9.) No, he did not manage to fix it.
10.) Did not work with DVD Movies, or backups afterward. "Open Tray". He had no originals with him to test, but I believe when he got back home they didn't work there.

Notes: He tried flashing with JF 1.5.1 until I yelled at him for using old software, but even reflashing with 1.5.9 didn't fix the problem. His key is good.
   Also, his CK3 extractor would not eject..... pressing the button did nothing. It may have been/was defective, but he still used it to power the drive.
  When I asked him to check after he got the "Open Tray" error, he said the laser was still shining red light for .25 sec at disc insertion, and the laser carrier jiggled, disc spun up for a short while, but wasn't recognized. He said the Xbox said "Reading" for a short time, before saying "Open Tray" again.

This post has been edited by ZeroCoolXbox: May 8 2009, 06:18 AM

[OggyUK]

Breaking your rule in its first reply.

10. Did you push the tray in with any form of power / connectivity kit connected to the drive. Even powered on or off

Also, good luck with trying to get someone to actually read the post brfore replying (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[keztheking]

i really dont think this is a bug with the firmware or flasher m8,i would suspect that its all to do with your setup.i've done 100s of liteons from stock and 1.5-1.51 and never come across this,i always use jungleflasher to obtain the key and needed files then make the firmware and use dosflash to erase and  write the firmware and can say this has never happened to me.ive also had xboxes from ms repair and again all has gone well as have the drives which are now coming in with manufacters date in 2009.

[eternalhax]

lol, good luck with the post rule. For some reason others feel the need to act like this only happens to stupid people flashing their drive in the shower and doesn't need to be addressed.

The way I see it, if there is a remote possibility of frying the laser and no one knows the exact cause it needs the be common knowledge to unplug the laser before flashing.

Replacing the laser with a BenQ does fix the issues.
Don't know about push in the laser. I will try that and post back later.

See the thread I started for the details... I would list requested data in the format you wish but it's a busy day, got a lot of proggin to do.
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=683592

[Johnny HugeButt]

Well,

lasers are VERY sensitive devices and react bad to, for example, ESD discharges. Everyone that ordered a replacement laser knows about the anti ESD solder blob that needs to be removed before applying the laser. Because of this i wouldnt recomment unplugging the laser as even touching the connections can destroy it. I know this from work where i conducted research on CD/DVD players; destroyed plenty of them  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)  

I have done a few lite-ons myself without any problems whatsoever. My best guess is that your rig isn't setup properly. Like, have you grounded the PC case to the XBOX case (i use croc clips) BEFORE plugging in sata or applying power?

Its (imo) highly unlikely that flashing causes lasers to burn out.

just my 2 cents

JH

[sephiroth666]

Seems like there is a problem with the jungleflasher-user-interface

[eternalhax]

Not a grounding or ESD issue. I adhere to proper ESD safety. Fo power I use a CK and alligator clips as extra precaution.

I've done 20+ liteons / 100+ total 360's without problem until I had 1 issue a few days ago.

Since ROM lasers are so sensitive I can see it possible that flashing can do damage. Remember, the firmware was not meant to be written. To do so you must brute-force attack the ROM into submission.

I'll be un-plugging my ribbon from now on.

[BlackWar]

If the FW chip was an actual ROM chip then it would not be possible to flash it  (ROM = Read Only Memory)

I also have a very hard time beleaving that flashing is harmful on the laser. If it was, then PC manufacturers would not supply tools to allow users to update the FW in their DVD-ROMS. Also, if it was that sensitive to flashing, then there would be posts from hell and back complaining about it, thus causing fw and fw flashing tools creators to make some changes thus preventing future problems.

I would chalk it up to bad luck/timing and/or faulty drive from the beginning.

This post has been edited by BlackWar: May 8 2009, 05:17 PM

[grantie]

I dont think this is relevant to the problems you guys are having it might be though. One time I was doing a liteon and I got the same symptoms as you guys accept the cd came out when a cd was inserted sometimes. The other times it would stick on reading. Without a cd in the tray would close no problems.

I took the drive apart and i noticed the big cog that moves the tray had slid up ( must have happened when i ejected with the back cover off) .

Anyway short story is i took the tray out and put it back together again and all was good. My tip is don’t eject the drive with whatever connector kit your using. Eject it on the  dvd drive with a small screw diver to slip the mech. There is less change of any cogs slipping when its loose with no back on it so support it or you could end up refitting your cd tray.

Another thing to note if the eject /close isn’t working properly that might be why some people cant get the firmware to flash I know after an initial erase freeze I have to keep my liteon tray closed for the drive to pick up in dosflash.

[eternalhax]

QUOTE(BlackWar @ May 8 2009, 04:03 PM)

If the FW chip was an actual ROM chip then it would not be possible to flash it  (ROM = Read Only Memory)

ROFL, dude, ROM as in the DVD-ROM not the actual chip containing the flash.

QUOTE(BlackWar @ May 8 2009, 04:03 PM)

I also have a very hard time beleaving that flashing is harmful on the laser. If it was, then PC manufacturers would not supply tools to allow users to update the FW in their DVD-ROMS. Also, if it was that sensitive to flashing, then there would be posts from hell and back complaining about it, thus causing fw and fw flashing tools creators to make some changes thus preventing future problems.

Maybe I'm repeating myself but 360 "drives" (better?) are not meant to be flashed. They need to be "forced" into it.

QUOTE(BlackWar @ May 8 2009, 04:03 PM)

I would chalk it up to bad luck/timing and/or faulty drive from the beginning.

Not faulty drives I had this happen to 4 new drives less than 2 weeks old.

As for the no eject thing, that usually means there is no / corrupt firmware on the drive. I've had that happen a couple times after JF locked up. l-o-eras and dosflash fixed them up with no problems.

[nuzz]

Mine crashed to on the first try from 1.50 to 1.51. Had to *fix* the keys with the serial and all (previous dump not ok). Had trouble getting it to open again. Rested everything hooked drive back up in the 360. Tried again and it went withouth a problem.
Original games worked, some old games too. Some new gave 'open tray' some old gave 'play game' without another option also starting them with result in a dirty disc, some new had this also.

The solution for me was using my never used dvdburner. Everything working ok now, with new burned backups. Still need to test if burning the same backup on both machines gives the excepted result. If not it was b/c i didn't use abgx properly  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

[Takashi]

^^ not related.

[jonko]

maybe it has all to do with the power socket from where your pc is put in.
For me ,i don't have my wall socket grounded. so my pc isn't grounded either.
i then measured the votage on my pc chassis and i measured a 100 volt. (have 220 volt here in the netherlands).  That's btw not true 100 volts you measure,otherwise i would fry myself touching my pc chassis.

But we all know even the slightest voltage on your pc chassis isnt't good.

so check your wall socket if its grounded.

Just my 2 cents. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[eternalhax]

PC I used was connected to a grounded UPS that power filters.

Not using a grounded surge protector is just asking for a blown power supply.

[BlackWar]

QUOTE(eternalhax @ May 8 2009, 08:43 AM)

ROFL, dude, ROM as in the DVD-ROM not the actual chip containing the flash.
Maybe I'm repeating myself but 360 "drives" (better?) are not meant to be flashed. They need to be "forced" into it.
Not faulty drives I had this happen to 4 new drives less than 2 weeks old.

As for the no eject thing, that usually means there is no / corrupt firmware on the drive. I've had that happen a couple times after JF locked up. l-o-eras and dosflash fixed them up with no problems.

agreed. pc drives are meant to be updated, (hence the tools released by manufactures) and 360 drives are write protected, hence the need for getting the drive into "mode b" or "recovery mode" in order to gain access to them (unless you remove the chip and directly flash, but thats going out of scope of this topic).

Knowing that, the only thing that I can think of that would fry the laser would be just as others have stated, either static electricity (touching the board with your bare hands without using an anti-static wrist strap or something similar) or variances in voltage between the 360 drive and the PC.

on a side note, yes, clarification is nice. their is a difference between a ROM and a DVD-ROM, just like there is a difference between a car and a ferrari. just because you know what you meant doesn't mean that everybody else knows what you meant.