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[Hellsgremlin]

Hello

OK I bricked 2 Hitachi 59DJ's @ One 78fk. Trying to replace My samsung TS-H943 MS/25 Ver=A. The samsung went bad a few days ago. I had 3 other xboxes so i tryed to use those drives since i was to impatient to wait for my 78fk to arrive in the mail. However It arrived today and Since I now Only Have one working Drive and Key ( i lost the other key's because my windows got nerfed from windows startups forced me to format and reinstall windows)... Fortinatly I had the key to the samsung written on the Metal Frame to the xbox and on the top of the drive) Since Ive Lost 3 Xbox 360 Consol's To trying to make one work. this is my last drive i am trying than i quit.... I dont like to ask for because it has usualy already been answered. however the only answer i am finding is the same.....


This Is the Tutorial I used.
 I will explain What I did Below the Tutorial


TUTORIAL ON HOW TO SPOOF A HITACHI DRIVE AS A SAMSUNG DRIVE OR AS A HITACHI FROM OTHER VERSION
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Put your Hitachi drive in ModeB with SLAX or CrossWire Trick (Hitachi 78
and above only support SLAX Method) or Power on with tray open

- Make sure you attach the Drive to the PC with a Native Sata port because
some PCI Sata cards are not supported or even some USB-SATA adapters are
not working well at this moment. Does not harm to try
- Make sure your drive is visible and has a letter asigned on Windows

- Insert a DVD Movie or an XBOX/XBOX 360 game on the Hitachi DVD drive, it
does not matter wich, originals works better.

- Launch Toolbox

- Open the Firmware File you want to spoof (I recommend the final.bin, never
do changes to the original.bin as is the base fw)

- Now go to "Tools->Spoof Firmware",

- Choose the version as you want the fw report. Leave other options as is

- Please note that spoofing a drive as itself has the effect of UNSPOOFING it

- Click "APPLY SPOOF"

- Now the Main Window will show the spoofed details, go to
"Tools->Direct Drive Flash->Flash String ID (SPOOF DATA)"

- Make sure the Hitachi drive u want to flash is selected.

- Press the "Start Flashing" button and after a few seconds the thing is done
you can shutdown everthing and start testing the drive on the console.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok Step 1 and 2 are pretty Fool proof. The Drive Is connected to SATA 3 Dirrectly On My PC Motherbord, Powered On, in Mode B Trey Is Open. Its Has A Windows Assigned Letter E:/ ........ Next I insert a Original Xbox 360 Game close the Drive.....Windows Opens a explorer Window and displays "Audio TS" and "Video TS" Folder...I close the Explorer Window.....I Launch FWTOOLBOX As ADMINISTRATER (im using Vista)......Now im a bit confused...."Open the firmware i want to spoof...Which version of 78fk do i need and how do i find out? "  so i Use the Hit-OFW.bin I previously dumbed, deleat the key that appeared in the feild and type in the key from my samsung drive.  typed save Key " A new Key Has Been Saved" I hit Spoof Firmware. Choese  Samsung TS-H943A MS25...apply Spoof Get a message "String Detection has changed you Can always revert if you want -9003C00 Sting Id"
                                                  -9003E000 Checksum


Next I go to "Tools->Direct Drive Flash->Flash String ID (SPOOF DATA) Select My The Hitatchi GDR3120L-0078 Drive. Now And chose Internal Flasher.....
Next YAY IT FREEZES AND MY 3rd DRIVE HAS FALLEN VICTIM!


(how do i know which one is for me...theyre are like 4 different options for the 78fk & 79fk drives)

[turny]

QUOTE(Hellsgremlin @ Mar 14 2009, 10:48 PM)

Hello

OK I bricked 2 Hitachi 59DJ's @ One 78fk. Trying to replace My samsung TS-H943 MS/25 Ver=A. The samsung went bad a few days ago. I had 3 other xboxes so i tryed to use those drives since i was to impatient to wait for my 78fk to arrive in the mail. However It arrived today and Since I now Only Have one working Drive and Key ( i lost the other key's because my windows got nerfed from windows startups forced me to format and reinstall windows)... Fortinatly I had the key to the samsung written on the Metal Frame to the xbox and on the top of the drive) Since Ive Lost 3 Xbox 360 Consol's To trying to make one work. this is my last drive i am trying than i quit.... I dont like to ask for because it has usualy already been answered. however the only answer i am finding is the same.....
This Is the Tutorial I used.
 I will explain What I did Below the Tutorial
TUTORIAL ON HOW TO SPOOF A HITACHI DRIVE AS A SAMSUNG DRIVE OR AS A HITACHI FROM OTHER VERSION
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Put your Hitachi drive in ModeB with SLAX or CrossWire Trick (Hitachi 78
and above only support SLAX Method) or Power on with tray open

- Make sure you attach the Drive to the PC with a Native Sata port because
some PCI Sata cards are not supported or even some USB-SATA adapters are
not working well at this moment. Does not harm to try
- Make sure your drive is visible and has a letter asigned on Windows

- Insert a DVD Movie or an XBOX/XBOX 360 game on the Hitachi DVD drive, it
does not matter wich, originals works better.

- Launch Toolbox

- Open the Firmware File you want to spoof (I recommend the final.bin, never
do changes to the original.bin as is the base fw)

- Now go to "Tools->Spoof Firmware",

- Choose the version as you want the fw report. Leave other options as is

- Please note that spoofing a drive as itself has the effect of UNSPOOFING it

- Click "APPLY SPOOF"

- Now the Main Window will show the spoofed details, go to
"Tools->Direct Drive Flash->Flash String ID (SPOOF DATA)"

- Make sure the Hitachi drive u want to flash is selected.

- Press the "Start Flashing" button and after a few seconds the thing is done
you can shutdown everthing and start testing the drive on the console.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok Step 1 and 2 are pretty Fool proof. The Drive Is connected to SATA 3 Dirrectly On My PC Motherbord, Powered On, in Mode B Trey Is Open. Its Has A Windows Assigned Letter E:/ ........ Next I insert a Original Xbox 360 Game close the Drive.....Windows Opens a explorer Window and displays "Audio TS" and "Video TS" Folder...I close the Explorer Window.....I Launch FWTOOLBOX As ADMINISTRATER (im using Vista)......Now im a bit confused...."Open the firmware i want to spoof...Which version of 78fk do i need and how do i find out? "  so i Use the Hit-OFW.bin I previously dumbed, deleat the key that appeared in the feild and type in the key from my samsung drive.  typed save Key " A new Key Has Been Saved" I hit Spoof Firmware. Choese  Samsung TS-H943A MS25...apply Spoof Get a message "String Detection has changed you Can always revert if you want -9003C00 Sting Id"
                                                  -9003E000 Checksum
Next I go to "Tools->Direct Drive Flash->Flash String ID (SPOOF DATA) Select My The Hitatchi GDR3120L-0078 Drive. Now And chose Internal Flasher.....
Next YAY IT FREEZES AND MY 3rd DRIVE HAS FALLEN VICTIM!
(how do i know which one is for me...theyre are like 4 different options for the 78fk & 79fk drives)

never done a 78 only 79 s the different options depend where the key is held,look in fwtoolbox when you have dumped the hitachi drive select to suit, i personally use jungleflasher as this seems to be the replacement for fwtoolbox, now you should flash keys first and flash string id last,the original xbox 360 game needs only to be in when dumping the drive not when flashing( in jungleflasher this is not required).when removing the game use the xbox or connectivity kit.

[uradodah]

I realize you probably don't want to hear this - but I think it's a good suggestion none-the-less...

Always send yourself an email with the drive's key and/or original f/w attached.  That way, you have it for safekeeping.  Also, I always save mine to a USB drive or SD card, as well as an external HDD.

I hope you get this sorted out...

[Hellsgremlin]

Turny,
Thank you for Your Response, i agree I Use Jungleflasher for flashing standard drives, however i never had to do a spoof other than wne i originaly flashed the samsung b4 it broke....spoofed ms28 to ms25...but that was a autmated process with a usb startup disk....what i am looking for is a step by step on how to spoof in jungleflasher....im pretty smart and can read and follow dirrections well, However if you could point me in the way of the a jungle flasher spoofing tutorial i should be ok...all i could find is fwtoolbox...which i hate!

[crazygoldfish]

3 drives in one sitting................. ouch thats a dagger to the heart

[Hellsgremlin]

Tell me about it....I got one hitachi Left.....however A guy brought me his Dead Red Ring System, And I cant get it to go away. ive done like 6 different fixes to it and the RROD I even tryed Overheating Slightly to simulate the 2 towl trick, However i just removed the funnel for about 60 seconds untill the fans spun fast than turned it off b4 any futher damaged was caused!.. Anyway long story short i have deamed his board dead and he is calling another guy to see if he thinks he can fix it, if not I can have the drive and consol for parts if i want,,,,,BENQ drive....Is it easyer to use my 079 orthe New BenQ? im assuming its safer to use the BenQ!?

[hetster]

hitachi are the worst drives lol.
read a few of these pages theres been so many bricks and they are all random..the trouble with hitachi is they cant be done in dos. so a brick is a perm brick unless you know someone with a tsop flasher or if your good with a soldering iron to falsh the tsop externaly..

all the other drives eg samsung/benq/lite-on can all be done in dos so even if you brick the drive you can recover in dos..its virtualy impossible to brick any of the drives from flashing excpet for hitachi's..

i too have 3 hitachi bricks from nearly 200 drives flashed..most hitachi's go to plan and the funny thing is nothing different is done to the ones that brick from the ones that are succesful. i actualy dread opening an xbox to find the hitachi drives as its like a lottery as to wether they will flash or not..

i have them all lined up here in the hope of 1 day someone bringing a method of flashing a full firmware to them in dos..i'm suprised M$ dropped the hitachis for benq and lite-on as there is no horror stories from them but ever since the first hiatachi 0047 hit the shelves there has been endless posts about them bricking..

if i was going to replace a drive in a 360 it would be ANY drive other than hitachi. but that just my opinion. i actualy thought it was via chipset as i have read lots of guides tutorials saying via chipset and hitachi are very random and can cause probs..but reading here of people trying to flash hitachis with JF it ranges from any drive to any chipset and theres bricks galore..

/me prays for work on a dos method for hitachi's

This post has been edited by hetster: Mar 15 2009, 02:16 AM

[Hellsgremlin]

QUOTE(hetster @ Mar 14 2009, 08:09 PM)

hitachi are the worst drives lol.
read a few of these pages theres been so many bricks and they are all random..the trouble with hitachi is they cant be done in dos. so a brick is a perm brick unless you know someone with a tsop flasher or if your good with a soldering iron to falsh the tsop externaly..

all the other drives eg samsung/benq/lite-on can all be done in dos so even if you brick the drive you can recover in dos..its virtualy impossible to brick any of the drives from flashing excpet for hitachi's..

i too have 3 hitachi bricks from nearly 200 drives flashed..most hitachi's go to plan and the funny thing is nothing different is done to the ones that brick from the ones that are succesful. i actualy dread opening an xbox to find the hitachi drives as its like a lottery as to wether they will flash or not..

i have them all lined up here in the hope of 1 day someone bringing a method of flashing a full firmware to them in dos..i'm suprised M$ dropped the hitachis for benq and lite-on as there is no horror stories from them but ever since the first hiatachi 0047 hit the shelves there has been endless posts about them bricking..

if i was going to replace a drive in a 360 it would be ANY drive other than hitachi. but that just my opinion. i actualy thought it was via chipset as i have read lots of guides tutorials saying via chipset and hitachi are very random and can cause probs..but reading here of people trying to flash hitachis with JF it ranges from any drive to any chipset and theres bricks galore..

/me prays for work on a dos method for hitachi's

AMEN!

Can u link me or point me in the right dirrection for more info?

[turfster]

I'm in the same situation. I am going to replace a samsung  w/ ixtreme 1.51 on it. I bought a new Hitachi 79.

This is what I'm gonna do:

Use Jungleflasher:


Get into Modeb and unlock cd first.
read original 79 firmware
find key location
then open source firmware as your original samsung firmware(already have original firmware saved on pc)
open target as the hitachi ixtreme 1.51 with the proper key location
spoof source to target
save
flash

It's gonna take a couple of days to get my new drive, but Ill post back here after I do it.

Hopefully this works. I was gonna use fwtoolbox but after reading what happened to you I don't think so.

This post has been edited by turfster: Mar 15 2009, 03:46 AM

[Hellsgremlin]

QUOTE(turfster @ Mar 14 2009, 09:44 PM)

I'm in the same situation. I am going to replace a samsung  w/ ixtreme 1.51 on it. I bought a new Hitachi 79.

This is what I'm gonna do:

Use Jungleflasher:
Get into Modeb and unlock cd first.
read original 79 firmware
find key location
then open source firmware as your original samsung firmware(already have original firmware saved on pc)
open target as the hitachi ixtreme 1.51 with the proper key location
spoof source to target
save
flash

It's gonna take a couple of days to get my new drive, but Ill post back here after I do it.

Hopefully this works. I was gonna use fwtoolbox but after reading what happened to you I don't think so.

Thanks a Million....There's tons of scary storys about hitachi's floatin around but none the less.. Good Luck to you...I now have 2 working drives to try it on....but im gonna do it your way with the hitatchi 79 and tell you my results. glad i got a free benq today...i read theyre hard to brick

[turfster]

Cool, I was given this tutorial from a very reliable modder friend I know. If you do this and it works, please get back to me with your results.  Just make sure you save the original firmware from the hitachi 79 and/or benq before you do this. Also, dump your original firmware from your sammy too and save that. I wouldnt use the key that is written on the sammy. Redump that original firmware, thats probably key to getting this right.

Don't just type the key from sammy in, get the dump. Did I say that already? LOL. Anyway, good luck and don't brick anymore drives cause your freaking me out. Again, save your original firmwares just in case you do brick them.

Also, I just read you dont have the original firmware, I dont think you need it. But i would still dump the hacked firmware first if you can just to make sure the key's are the samething.

This post has been edited by turfster: Mar 15 2009, 04:38 AM

[crazygoldfish]

QUOTE(Hellsgremlin @ Mar 15 2009, 02:42 AM)

Tell me about it....I got one hitachi Left.....however A guy brought me his Dead Red Ring System, And I cant get it to go away. ive done like 6 different fixes to it and the RROD I even tryed Overheating Slightly to simulate the 2 towl trick, However i just removed the funnel for about 60 seconds untill the fans spun fast than turned it off b4 any futher damaged was caused!.. Anyway long story short i have deamed his board dead and he is calling another guy to see if he thinks he can fix it, if not I can have the drive and consol for parts if i want,,,,,BENQ drive....Is it easyer to use my 079 orthe New BenQ? im assuming its safer to use the BenQ!?

Its really six and half a dozen, if it were me, I would go with the benq, spoof and hack it.

Have you tried the eraser or xclamp fix for the rrod system? overheating it alone is not enough.

[Hellsgremlin]

QUOTE(turfster @ Mar 14 2009, 10:20 PM)

Cool, I was given this tutorial from a very reliable modder friend I know. If you do this and it works, please get back to me with your results.  Just make sure you save the original firmware from the hitachi 79 and/or benq before you do this. Also, dump your original firmware from your sammy too and save that. I wouldnt use the key that is written on the sammy. Redump that original firmware, thats probably key to getting this right.

Don't just type the key from sammy in, get the dump. Did I say that already? LOL. Anyway, good luck and don't brick anymore drives cause your freaking me out. Again, save your original firmwares just in case you do brick them.

Also, I just read you dont have the original firmware, I dont think you need it. But i would still dump the hacked firmware first if you can just to make sure the key's are the samething.

Ok the Hitachi 79FL that i had was orderd from Ebay Brand New so the key on that was useless to me,

However I did successfuly Flash the drive. Close to your method but i had to add a few steps,


1. Get the drive Powered up, In Mode B, and Unlocked Using Slax Audio CD
2. Next in the  Firmware tool 32 i loaded Ix-151-0079 firmware as Source
3. Load the same firmware as target, Hit Manual Spoof Typed My key in(after redumping the samsung to verify it was correct) Typed In the Key, Than i Chose the drive i want to spoof as from the drop down menue as, "samsung Tsh943 ms25"
4 Hit Save as File and Saved Hit-CFW to my desktop for easy access.
5 Flash Spoof Data,
6 Flash Key Data
7 Flash Ixtreeme


Ok Notice a few extra steps. I tryed to just spoof ixtreem and Flash it to the drive, Unfortinatly No matter how many times & different ways i tred to load my HIT-CFW in the Target Box It would always flash with a incorrect key. and wouldnt spoof. So what i had to do was.....add steps 5 & 6.....you cannot flash the firmware b4 you flash the spoof data and or the key data because it will make u do a restore First!....it took me forever to work up enough nerve to play with steps 4 and 5.....as i obviously now know how unpredictable Hitatchi's are I wouldnt reccomend anyone who reads this Experement Much At all......Good Luck to anyone having trouble.....if anyone needs more help feel free to PM Me Or post here. ill try n guide you

[Hellsgremlin]

"Its really six and half a dozen, if it were me, I would go with the benq, spoof and hack it.

Have you tried the eraser or xclamp fix for the rrod system? overheating it alone is not enough."


To fix The RROD System I Dissasbled The consol, Removing the bord compleatly, Removed the heat sinks's,  Cleaned the existing gel off of the bottom of the heatsink and both CPU and GPU, Than I taped 8 pennies together In Sets Of 2's Than I put a small amount of thermal gel to the bottom of the 4 chips surrounding the GPU, Stick the Taped up pennies to the bottom of The 4 Chips applying pressuer to both sides ot the chips, Hoping to Make sure they are Nice and Tight, Next I apply the xclap fix using the proper Screws and #4 washers from homedepot (i used plastic washers) than Put The Bord Back in its Chassie Than Secure it down With all screws, Now b4 i reassemble I heat up the System by removing the Plastic Funnle for about 1 or 2 minutes ( or untill fans get loud) Than I Remove the Power, wait a moment or 2 put the funnel back in place and than power up the Consol, Usualy This Workes Every time, However Not this Time....Sometimes after heating the system up i can get it to Boot to green lights But shortly after it boots It makes a Beep and Freezes Turn off the consol, turn it back on RROD is Back!....any suggestions?

[hetster]

2 mins is not enough and the overheat is 1 of the most important parts..
everything else is fine..although i would remove the pennies..the xclamp and overheat is best method for 90% of rrod..if the secondary error code is relating to mem chips then try the penny fix but 9 times outta 10 its 1020 which is fixable with xclamp

remove the fan from the case altogether then place the board in with the xclamp fix and screw in the silver screws around the ouside of the board (not the black inside 8 screws) then plug the dvd drive in and sit it on top of the heatsink..then plug the fan into the board and rest it on top of the dvd drive and cpu heatsink.
the overheat sensor is actualy under the cpu so if you can keep that cool enough it should overheat the gpu sufficiently to reflow the solder..this can take between 15 and 20 mins..i geenraly do around 18 mins to be sure. be sure the fans are blowing cold air onto the cpu rather than sucking hot air off it
1 red light = ok
3 red lights = ok
4 green lights = ok
2 red lights left hand side = no good..the 2 red lights = overheat and will cut power to the gpu meaning it will no longer apply any heat..
then give it a good 15 mins to cool down..replace the hoodand then the fan and fire it up..hopefully you'll get green lights.




(IMG:http://www.llamma.com/xbox360/repair/images/x-clamp/xclamp%20074.jpg)


its also starting to get slightly off topic and in the wrong forum..you might be better creating a seperate thread about the rrod where you'll get more specific answers

This post has been edited by hetster: Mar 16 2009, 07:08 PM