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[Nexer]

QUOTE(limonaati @ Mar 7 2009, 01:45 PM)

Why did you restore to original firmware with toolbox 4.8? I thought this wasn't necessary with Jungleflasher? And how did you get you Hitachi to modeb and unlocked if you used the toolbox before Jungleflasher?

I am probably going to flash my 79 from 1.4 to 1.51 soon, but just don't want to screw anything up so that's why I am asking (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Because I had TB 4.8 at hand along with my original firmware so didn't wanna risk anything since I'm new to JungleFlasher.

JungleFlasher had Mode B and 79 unlock function. All You have to do is provide the 79 unlock audio CD.

[dpbmt]

QUOTE(watcherize @ Mar 7 2009, 01:16 PM)

i got no floppies! but if u mean other DVD drives or CDs .. i'll try it .

disable the floppy disk controller in device manger

[billpen]

A question about benq 1.51 firmware: how do I change the drive speed in the fw?
In 1.40 there were several versions with different speeds. In 1.51 there is only 12x.
How do I change it?

[Mat03111984]

ok just to check. i have a liteon which i have already flashed with the older ixtreme. now to install this new one do i just need to connect it to a sata or do i still need the connectivity kit? like i said ive already flashed and got the key etc the last time. also do i just overwrite the old one with the new ixtreme?

[watcherize]

now i got another problem ..

what happens in Jungleflasher when after writing , and trying to verify writing is failed ?

"Wirite verify failed ! "

[Exobex]

QUOTE(alucard_xs @ Mar 7 2009, 10:28 AM)

can someone tell me where to find original firmwares ?

You don't need the original firmware when reading the keys.  Just pretend your drive isn't modified.  Think, with Samsung, BenQ and LiteOn drives the only bit of the original firmware you need is the keys, and they are in the same place on the hacked firmwares as well.

QUOTE(limonaati @ Mar 7 2009, 12:45 PM)

Why did you restore to original firmware with toolbox 4.8? I thought this wasn't necessary with Jungleflasher? And how did you get you Hitachi to modeb and unlocked if you used the toolbox before Jungleflasher?

I am probably going to flash my 79 from 1.4 to 1.51 soon, but just don't want to screw anything up so that's why I am asking

It's always been recommended to flash Hitachis back to retail before flashing to a different firmware, because only the bits that are modified (the hacked bits of the firmware) are flashed.  Take the following example:-
BitOfCode1
BitOfCode2
BitOfCode3
BitOfCode4

Let's say firmware V1.0 made changes to BitOfCode1 and BitOfCode2.
V1.1 added more features and changed BitOfCode1, BitOfCode2 and BitOfCode3.
Then V1.2 comes along with different features and changes BitOfCode1, BitOfCode3 and BitOfCode4.  BitOfCode2 is untouched this time.
In this case, an upgrade from V1.1 straight to V1.2 would still leave you with a modified BitOfCode2 that V1.2 expects (and maybe needs) to be unchanged.  You now have a combination of V1.1 and V1.2 that perhaps doesn't work, and that (in the worst case) bricks your drive.

Flashing back to retail first ensures that you don't end up with one of these dangerous "hybrid" firmwares.

This isn't the case with Samsung, BenQ and LiteOn firmwares, as these are completely replaced when flashing.  For these the keys are read, injected into a copy of the iXtreme firmware to create a unique hacked firmware for that drive, then the whole firmware gets flashed in one go.

QUOTE(Mat03111984 @ Mar 7 2009, 01:52 PM)

ok just to check. i have a liteon which i have already flashed with the older ixtreme. now to install this new one do i just need to connect it to a sata or do i still need the connectivity kit? like i said ive already flashed and got the key etc the last time. also do i just overwrite the old one with the new ixtreme?

Process for modding
Connect to kit
Dump the keys
Create hacked firmware using iXtreme firmware plus your keys
Erase drive
Flash drive using hacked firmware

Process for remodding
Create hacked firmware using iXtreme firmware plus your keys
Erase drive
Flash drive using hacked firmware

If you used the batch files that I created (see below) you'd run LITREMOD instead of LITREAD, then LITHACK to flash the drive.

[robo989]

QUOTE(Exobex @ Mar 7 2009, 04:01 PM)

You don't need the original firmware when reading the keys.  Just pretend your drive isn't modified.  Think, with Samsung, BenQ and LiteOn drives the only bit of the original firmware you need is the keys, and they are in the same place on the hacked firmwares as well.
It's always been recommended to flash Hitachis back to retail before flashing to a different firmware, because only the bits that are modified (the hacked bits of the firmware) are flashed.  Take the following example:-
BitOfCode1
BitOfCode2
BitOfCode3
BitOfCode4

Let's say firmware V1.0 made changes to BitOfCode1 and BitOfCode2.
V1.1 added more features and changed BitOfCode1, BitOfCode2 and BitOfCode3.
Then V1.2 comes along with different features and changes BitOfCode1, BitOfCode3 and BitOfCode4.  BitOfCode2 is untouched this time.
In this case, an upgrade from V1.1 straight to V1.2 would still leave you with a modified BitOfCode2 that V1.2 expects (and maybe needs) to be unchanged.  You now have a combination of V1.1 and V1.2 that perhaps doesn't work, and that (in the worst case) bricks your drive.

Flashing back to retail first ensures that you don't end up with one of these dangerous "hybrid" firmwares.

This isn't the case with Samsung, BenQ and LiteOn firmwares, as these are completely replaced when flashing.  For these the keys are read, injected into a copy of the iXtreme firmware to create a unique hacked firmware for that drive, then the whole firmware gets flashed in one go.
Process for modding
Connect to kit
Dump the keys
Create hacked firmware using iXtreme firmware plus your keys
Erase drive
Flash drive using hacked firmware

Process for remodding
Create hacked firmware using iXtreme firmware plus your keys
Erase drive
Flash drive using hacked firmware

If you used the batch files that I created (see below) you'd run LITREMOD instead of LITREAD, then LITHACK to flash the drive.

I think he's asking, after you have flashed your drive already can you just connect your drive directly to the SATA port on your motherboard and not use the connectivity kit whatsoever?

[360Promods]

OK, at first Jungleflasher would freeze with me doing a hitachi with 1.51. Well after 3 reboots all is ok and it flashed fine. Then i try out my Lite-on. Everything went smooth with lite on it was just a update, then i realize, i didnt open or close the drive halfway. Just left it closed the whole time and flashed not problem. Did the test when i was done play a backup then did the final test and tried H.A.W.X and played fine.
   So i take it you dont have to do the tray trick now?
   Also is H.A.W.X stealthed, or 1.51 stealth for that matter? Un still confused cuz i check in ABGX360 and it wasnt sure if it was but im guessing cuz its new.

[K1LLERHORNET89]

QUOTE(alucard_xs @ Mar 7 2009, 09:21 AM)

hi, I've got a samsung ms28 flashed with iXtreme 1.4 but I can't find my original fw anymore on my pc, is there a way to restore it ? (to have to key specially)

i think you just flash the firmware as you did with v1.4

i'm gonna try it in a min using iPrep.

i'll let u know how it goes.....

[d-dot]

so is it safe to say any drive can now be software firmware modded with the jungleflasher including the drives that you previously need hardware dongles for? i am not sure if i am saying this correctly but certain drives you wud have to buy a connectivity kit or something like that. wud u still need this or something like that?

[antz1970]

you still need to extract the key and identify info from a stock lite on using hardware(connectivity kit and probe for example) , however once you have modified a lite on , it can be upgraded to a new firmware using just software

[Exobex]

QUOTE(robo989 @ Mar 7 2009, 02:41 PM)

I think he's asking, after you have flashed your drive already can you just connect your drive directly to the SATA port on your motherboard and not use the connectivity kit whatsoever?

I could've just said "yes" but then I'd get flamed when someone flashes iXtreme straight to the drive without adding the keys to it.

If you already have your keys then you only need the connectivity kit to provide power to the drive.  You don't need to re-dump.

If you have an alternative means of powering the drive (such as the 360 itself) then no, you don't need the kit to reflash. BUT YOU DO NEED YOUR KEY FILES!

Sorry to have to reiterate that, but it's absolutely essential that people don't try to flash IX151-LiteOn.bin straight to the drive.  Do that when you don't have the key files to fix it and the 360 becomes scrap.

One last thing... the only drives Windows can be trusted to flash are Hitachis.  Check the old LiteOn 1.5 threads, most of the problems were caused by flashing in Windows, and were fixed by flashing in DOS.

This post has been edited by Exobex: Mar 7 2009, 04:18 PM

[michaelboord]

Just wondering since I prefer flashing from DOS using DOSFLASH...


Just using the old firmtool to copy  al info into the net ix151.bin and then flash it using DOS..

Will that also work?

Or is it required to use JungleFlasher?

[Davivascaino]

could anyone post a tutorial of how to flash to 1.51 from 1.5 ixtreme(lite on) for noob person like me?? LOL

[Takashi]

As we've all stated hundreds of times already, the procedure is nothing new.
Except the fact that jungleflasher can read the key from a v1.5 LiteOn over sata, no need
for the probe a second time.