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Author Topic: Flash Your Liteon For Free!  (Read 767 times)

yaywoop

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« Reply #15 on: December 26, 2008, 04:19:00 AM »

QUOTE(plugin @ Dec 26 2008, 09:14 PM) View Post

Yaywoop, I've got some questions regarding the use of correct salvaged parts. I've torn apart an old Sony VHS player and found the following items that I think are the correct ones for the job.

There was no transistor on the whole board that matched the ones you set as example, but in the power source area of the VHS I found two transistors which fortunately have the BCE labeled on the board. The first one (C4418) and bigger one is this:


On that same area on the VHS I found this second one (C3377). Smaller but still has the BCE labeled on the board. Notice the difference in size comparing it to the first one which appears on the following shot at the top right hand corner.


I did find the resistors on the main board. My only concern is that they are very small. I'm positive that I can de-solder them but I don't know if the size will determine anything that I should be aware of:


Thanks in advance.

don't use those large power transistors, use the smaller one.  To test if the transistor is an npn, get a ohm meter (or battery resistor and led) put the positive lead on the base, if its an NPN you should get a reading when you put the negative lead on the collector and emitter.

those resistors are fine.
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effbee05

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« Reply #16 on: December 26, 2008, 01:43:00 PM »

I tried to build the alternative DIY circuit from your tutorial but it doesn't seem to be working.
From testing it I have 5v on the probe, is that correct?
And for the simple circuit can I use a PNP transistor? (I have a bunch lying around) How would that be wired?
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plugin

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« Reply #17 on: December 26, 2008, 01:52:00 PM »

I've built the hardware but Jungleflasher won't recognize the drive and it won't recognize the serial port either. Is there a workaround for this? I have an intel SATA chipset.

Another thing I wanted to clear up is that in one tutorial you instruct to remove Pin 9 from the power to the drive, and in the other one you instruct to remove Pin 3. Which one is it?

Thanks yaywoop

This post has been edited by plugin: Dec 26 2008, 10:09 PM
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DavGerm4

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« Reply #18 on: December 26, 2008, 02:26:00 PM »

When I flashed my buddy's Liteon, I didn't remove any pin from the drive.  Because since you have the bottom cover off the drive, you can actually slide the notch for the emergency eject on the drive.  Then you can just pull it out, and push it back in half way.
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plugin

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« Reply #19 on: December 26, 2008, 02:27:00 PM »

I've just noticed that the Maximus software does recognize my COM port. Can this homebrew probe be used with the Maximus software?

Sorry for the double post but it wouldn't allow me to edit.
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effbee05

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« Reply #20 on: December 26, 2008, 03:04:00 PM »

QUOTE(plugin @ Dec 26 2008, 05:03 PM) View Post

I've just noticed that the Maximus software does recognize my COM port. Can this homebrew probe be used with the Maximus software?

Sorry for the double post but it wouldn't allow me to edit.


Yes, you can use it, that's what I used to get everything but a good key...
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plugin

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« Reply #21 on: December 26, 2008, 03:08:00 PM »

But I do need a good key so what's the point?
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yaywoop

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« Reply #22 on: December 26, 2008, 03:18:00 PM »

QUOTE(effbee05 @ Dec 27 2008, 08:19 AM) View Post

I tried to build the alternative DIY circuit from your tutorial but it doesn't seem to be working.
From testing it I have 5v on the probe, is that correct?
And for the simple circuit can I use a PNP transistor? (I have a bunch lying around) How would that be wired?

it should work. I made one from that scematic which worked. measure the voltage on the capacitor, and measure the voltage on pin 2 when you connect 'Pic TxD' to ground and when its connected to 3.3V
also use 3.3V as the supply voltage for that circuit instead of 5V

QUOTE(plugin @ Dec 27 2008, 08:28 AM) View Post

I've built the hardware but Jungleflasher won't recognize the drive and it won't recognize the serial port either. Is there a workaround for this? I have an intel SATA chipset.

Another thing I wanted to clear up is that in one tutorial you instruct to remove Pin 9 from the power to the drive, and in the other one you instruct to remove Pin 3. Which one is it?

Thanks yaywoop

The work around is to use DOS, see the ix15.txt which comes with the firmware. you could also try installing com port drivers for windows..
its pin 3 to remove. I said pin 9 in the old tute because i was using a different pinout.

QUOTE(DavGerm4 @ Dec 27 2008, 09:02 AM) View Post

When I flashed my buddy's Liteon, I didn't remove any pin from the drive.  Because since you have the bottom cover off the drive, you can actually slide the notch for the emergency eject on the drive.  Then you can just pull it out, and push it back in half way.

I did test that theory, it wouldn't work for me..
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plugin

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« Reply #23 on: December 26, 2008, 03:38:00 PM »

My COM port is properly installed. I can use it from any app but Jungleflasher. ix15.txt refers to the instructions to extract the key via DOS using the xectuer tutorial, which is not finished so I'm back to square 1.
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effbee05

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« Reply #24 on: December 26, 2008, 05:43:00 PM »

In another post someone just typed "COM1" in the COM port spot in jungleflash and said it worked, haven't tried that yet.
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plugin

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« Reply #25 on: December 26, 2008, 05:49:00 PM »

Just tried it. It worked. The files produced by jungleflasher are identical in size to the ones produced by Xtractor. This makes me think that I've got valid files. My only concern now is that you said that the key you got with the Xtractor app was no good, but in my case, both apps produce the same key and files.

Should I flash booting on DOS or should I use jungleflasher?
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yaywoop

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« Reply #26 on: December 26, 2008, 06:25:00 PM »

QUOTE(plugin @ Dec 27 2008, 12:25 PM) View Post

Just tried it. It worked. The files produced by jungleflasher are identical in size to the ones produced by Xtractor. This makes me think that I've got valid files. My only concern now is that you said that the key you got with the Xtractor app was no good, but in my case, both apps produce the same key and files.

Should I flash booting on DOS or should I use jungleflasher?

try jungleflasher, if it fails, boot in to dos and finish the job
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plugin

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« Reply #27 on: December 26, 2008, 06:49:00 PM »

Success! Another one for the list: (Its ugly I know, but it did the trick)

(IMG:http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww180/pluginm/homemadespear.jpg)

yaywoop, you're the man. Thanks a bunch.
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BioFUSION

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« Reply #28 on: December 26, 2008, 08:26:00 PM »

Hey guys, just realized I don't have a serial port on my pc, might have to resurrect an old
one I have lying around, but dont think they have sata.... This is one of the cables I came across
in my search.

(IMG:http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y31/biofusion/serialpt.jpg)


I was thinking, for it to be setup this way, wouldnt the usb and serial already be joined, and I
could just use the serial end as the db9 connector and plug in the usb end?

Thanks for the help all.
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yaywoop

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« Reply #29 on: December 27, 2008, 06:31:00 AM »

QUOTE(BioFUSION @ Dec 27 2008, 03:02 PM) View Post

Hey guys, just realized I don't have a serial port on my pc, might have to resurrect an old
one I have lying around, but dont think they have sata.... This is one of the cables I came across
in my search.

IPB Image
I was thinking, for it to be setup this way, wouldnt the usb and serial already be joined, and I
could just use the serial end as the db9 connector and plug in the usb end?

Thanks for the help all.

hmm donno. I think the digicam might have supported both usb and serial directly through the plug, so there would be no circuitry in the adapter. the only way to tell is to open it up (or take an x-ray tongue.gif)

actually you could tell by seeing if your computer detects anything when you plug in the usb without the digicam connected.
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