Have some comments and a question.
First off, thx to all involved with 1.5. Wasn't too thrilled about flashing again after I had just done it a month ago, but you gotta do what you gotta do!
I don't even pay for live (just running on my last few days of my free 1st month) or use it. But I still like to get online for some downloads and patches and don't want to lose that option. Still like the new fw though, and very nice to make use of my liteon.
I was using 1.41 @ 8x with my previous drive. My liteon does work just as well or better with 1.5, however, with the fw being locked in at 12x I do notice a pretty big increase in noise from the drive. And while loading times are a tad faster, I'd still rather 8x. But again, if it is best for stealth on 1.5, you gotta do what you gotta do!
Hope 1.5 can hold us all over for a long time!
Anyhow, regarding the flashing process. While I appreciate the hard work done on Jungle Flasher, I as well had some issues with it, for sure. And since it is beta (I think), this shouldn't be a surprise. I'm also using vista.
For this process, I fortunately still had my .bin dumps from a month back, so I didn't have to go through the dumping again which was nice. And for those asking, not you don't need the ck3 probe. I dumped the old fashioned way (by soldering the points). Worked just fine.
Thus I was able to pick off at the firmware tool 32 tab to make the new cfw. I did have some trouble with this at first, it wouldn't accept the 1.5 fw file. Wouldn't make dummy.bin either. Eventually I got it all to work, but I'm not sure how I did it.
Wanted to use firmware toolbox like I did for 1.41 but it didn't support 1.5.
So I made my cfw with jungle tool, but that was all I got accomplished with jungle tool. The rest of the process just didn't work for me in JT. Couldn't erase (thought I was bricked at this point). Couldn't even get device ID, nor get it to write later on. It also wasn't identifying my device at all (other than unknown device) and didn't get my port # right.
While not to thrilled with the tool, if the devs can get it working better and we can get some better tuts for it, then it will be a great gui. The tuts I read had screwups in them, which in turn screwed me up pretty bad. And I was using the official team xecutor one, and its not the 1st tut from them I used that wasn't very accurate.
Oh well. Anyhow, after making my cfw and having trouble with JT, I ended up just finding a real nice guide on how to get the job done using dosflash32.
Once I decided to use dosflash32, things went real easy and fast.
My liteon, which I had thought was bricked from the freeze in JT, was finally detected correctly by dosflash32 after just a single well timed power cycle. I let out a sigh of relief! But I still needed to do a proper erase in dosflash, but that went fine, first try.
Then I wrote with my cfw, again worked first try, and that was it!
So, my suggestion for anybody weary of using JT or having issues with it is to simply use dosflash32 to erase and write your cfw, and you can do it all in windows (a very nice thing to not even have to reboot your comp one time for the whole flashing process, thanks ixtreme 1.5!). Maybe just use JT for the dumping and writing the cfw.
Lastly, for anyone still reading

...I do have a question. I've heard from a number of people that it is safer (not sure how much safer) to flash the drive model that came with your 360 rather than spoofing another model.
My question is...taking it a step further...does it matter if the drive you flash is the EXACT drive that your 360 came with? Or do you get the same security as long as its the same model # and brand? For example, if my 360 came with a dg-16d2s liteon, is it just as safe to use that same model liteon, even if it isn't the exact same drive that came with your 360?
I wonder this because when using another drive (even if it is the same exact model) you are spoofing your original key from your original drive to it, which is obviously a totally different key than this "other" drive has.
But when flashing the drive your 360 came with, you are simply flashing/spoofing the same key on it that was already on there.
See what I'm getting at? Wondering if spoofing the same model drive (but not your original drive) is still just as safe as flashing your original drive.