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Author Topic: Liteon Key For Free!  (Read 2750 times)

kobazz

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« Reply #75 on: February 03, 2020, 08:56:00 AM »

I did it like this but it won't work. Any clues what i'm doing wrong here?
Since my PC isn't grounded through the power cord I have made a true gnd between the PC casing and a metal water pipe.

(IMG:http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/8494/06122008222ch6.jpg)
(IMG:http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/3500/06122008227la5.jpg)
(IMG:http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/7334/06122008226iw4.jpg)
(IMG:http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/559/06122008228ca2.jpg)
(IMG:http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/3505/06122008229cp2.jpg)

This post has been edited by kobazz: Yesterday, 04:57 PM
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fitsman

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« Reply #76 on: December 06, 2008, 09:47:00 AM »

Is there a change to dump - flash the new liteon with less and easyiest soldering than the above pictures?

And finally the new ixtreme 1.5 is gonna flashed with totally different way than previes in benq/hitachi/samsung drivers?

A lot of thanks for your answers and time.
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yaywoop

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« Reply #77 on: December 06, 2008, 09:55:00 AM »

QUOTE(kobazz @ Dec 7 2008, 02:56 AM) View Post

I did it like this but it won't work. Any clues what i'm doing wrong here?
Since my PC isn't grounded through the power cord I have made a true gnd between the PC casing and a metal water pipe.


your circuit looks fine. nice soldering by the way
what does dvdkey return? does it say your com port appears to be working but no key?
you might need to disconnect the Tx wire (to the dvd drive) while you are booting and connect it just before you run dvdkey. i found that i could never get the key if i had it all connected while booting.

other than that, have you verified the circuit is working with a multimeter?

it is also possible your serial port simply doesn't like the non standard 0 to 5v signal levels. if that's the case you might need to build the slightly more complex circuit mentioned earlier
link: http://www.uchobby.c...ptor-explained/
and you can omit the 'rs232 to TTL' section.
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kobazz

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« Reply #78 on: December 06, 2008, 09:58:00 AM »

Anyway this is wat IDENTIFY.BIN says:

À…                  D608CG82281105ST1         4758C0  LPSD    GD1-D6S2                                                      x x ã x                 h  


and INQUIRY.BIN:

€ 2[   PLDS    DG-16D2S        74850CA0A1D608CG82281105ST1



Any chance one of those two is the key?

DVDKEY saved those two files and then gave the error that it didnt work but that the serial port works though.
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yaywoop

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« Reply #79 on: December 06, 2008, 10:07:00 AM »

QUOTE(kobazz @ Dec 7 2008, 04:34 AM) View Post

Anyway this is wat IDENTIFY.BIN says:

À…                  D608CG82281105ST1         4758C0  LPSD    GD1-D6S2                                                      x x ã x                 h  
and INQUIRY.BIN:

€ 2[   PLDS    DG-16D2S        74850CA0A1D608CG82281105ST1
Any chance one of those two is the key?

DVDKEY saved those two files and then gave the error that it didnt work but that the serial port works though.

no the key will be saved in key.bin.
try disconnecting the tx wire until you run dvdkey because it sounds like the hardware is working ok

oh yeah and the grounding to a water pipe is not needed. you just need to make sure your pc/360 share the same ground (cases are electrically cconnected)

QUOTE(fitsman @ Dec 7 2008, 04:23 AM) View Post

Is there a change to dump - flash the new liteon with less and easyiest soldering than the above pictures?

And finally the new ixtreme 1.5 is gonna flashed with totally different way than previes in benq/hitachi/samsung drivers?

A lot of thanks for your answers and time.

yeah you don't have to solder anything to the drive. you can just wrap the ground wire through a hole in the metal case. and you can use 5v off a molex power connector in your pc. and the tx connection can be made with a pin through the tx wire. this has all been spoken of earlier.
you do need to solder the transistor, resistors and wire together. unless you use a 'breadboard' or just wrap the wires together (which i am not recommending but it will probably work)

as for the 1.5 firmware. no one knows (at least no one outside of those who are developing it)
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kobazz

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« Reply #80 on: February 03, 2020, 10:51:00 AM »

That did trick! Thanks yaywoop for that last tip and for your cheapass method;). Hope others can benefit from the pictures I took.

This post has been edited by kobazz: Yesterday, 06:52 PM
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yaywoop

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« Reply #81 on: December 06, 2008, 10:18:00 AM »

QUOTE(kobazz @ Dec 7 2008, 04:51 AM) View Post

That did trick! Thanks yaywoop for that last tip and for your cheapass method;). Hope others can benefit from the pictures I took.

yeah those pictures are great! saves me from taking more thanks for that.
i am glad to hear is worked for you!
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kobazz

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« Reply #82 on: February 03, 2020, 12:18:00 PM »

No problem. Thanks again for your nice method.

Anyway. When i open key.bin i get all kinds of gibberish.

ie: °_2cì…ü


Good thing I took a picture of my monitor with the key.

(IMG:http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/1941/06122008232pe1.jpg)
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Kaetzchen

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« Reply #83 on: December 06, 2008, 12:10:00 PM »

sorry 4 offtopic unsure.gif

would this cheap 4$ RS232 To TTL converter work also?
IPB Image

Voltage: 5V
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killerz

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« Reply #84 on: December 06, 2008, 06:46:00 PM »

is there a way to test the setup u guys did in kobazz pic's?
im getting a xbox tomorrow and i know its going to have a lite-on and i have a samsung here waiting hehe
ok so i just built the device..now i want to test it ..is there a way?


awsome pic,s kobazz smile.gif
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yaywoop

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« Reply #85 on: December 06, 2008, 07:45:00 PM »

QUOTE(kobazz @ Dec 7 2008, 06:18 AM) View Post

No problem. Thanks again for your nice method.

Anyway. When i open key.bin i get all kinds of gibberish.

ie: ********
Good thing I took a picture of my monitor with the key.



yeah it is in hex, not ascii, so notepad won't recognise it.
but you can open it in a hex editor if you want to view the key again.

QUOTE(Kaetzchen @ Dec 7 2008, 06:46 AM) View Post

sorry 4 offtopic unsure.gif

would this cheap 4$ RS232 To TTL converter work also?


Voltage: 5V

yeah that should work. just run it of 5v
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mcraenz

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« Reply #86 on: December 06, 2008, 09:02:00 PM »

How about this for an idea. (Sorry about the crud diagram.) Should work?
(IMG:http://mcraenz.googlepages.com/2Pronger.jpg)
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yaywoop

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« Reply #87 on: December 06, 2008, 11:10:00 PM »

QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 7 2008, 01:22 PM) View Post

is there a way to test the setup u guys did in kobazz pic's?
im getting a xbox tomorrow and i know its going to have a lite-on and i have a samsung here waiting hehe
ok so i just built the device..now i want to test it ..is there a way?
awsome pic,s kobazz smile.gif


ok to test your setup you can open hyperterm: "C:\Program Files\Windows NT\hypertrm.exe"
enter something in the area code box to keep it happy. make a new connection called test. connect using com1 (or whatever com port you are plugged into)  in the properties window change flow control to none.
and you should get a window with a blinking cursor. at the bottom it should say connected.

now power your adapter from 5V and touch the Tx probe to a 3V (2 x AA batteries) or 5v voltage repeatedly, you should get some crazy symbols appear in hyperterminal. that means your hardware is working!
if you don't get any symbols, try rubbing the probe lightly against the 3v source. eventually something should appear.

alternatively you can construct the other half of the converter that i said was not needed in the first post, join the Rx to the Tx and do a loopback test.

QUOTE(mcraenz @ Dec 7 2008, 03:02 PM) View Post

How about this for an idea. (Sorry about the crud diagram.) Should work?
http://mcraenz.googl...om/2Pronger.jpg

yeah.. basically the same as what we where talking about earlier.
you can get rid of the NPN and the resistors connected to it.
and its probably easier to use a molex connector for the 5v instead of a prong
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killerz

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« Reply #88 on: December 06, 2008, 11:52:00 PM »

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet so i made it and i just tested it and i got weard symbols so i take it its working AWESOME
so a few questions ..
i have 3 wires 1-gnd,1-5v,1-TxD,
so i connected  the TxD  wire to a needle
now for the 5v im going to be connecting it to the pc red wire
now the gnd? do i have to connect that to the pc also or to the xbox?

btw i have a Xecuter kit v2.can that be used? or is that something diferant all together?


many many many thx guys for helping me understand this
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yaywoop

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« Reply #89 on: December 07, 2008, 01:09:00 AM »

QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 7 2008, 06:28 PM) View Post

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet so i made it and i just tested it and i got weard symbols so i take it its working AWESOME
so a few questions ..
i have 3 wires 1-gnd,1-5v,1-TxD,
so i connected  the TxD  wire to a needle
now for the 5v im going to be connecting it to the pc red wire
now the gnd? do i have to connect that to the pc also or to the xbox?

btw i have a Xecuter kit v2.can that be used? or is that something diferant all together?
many many many thx guys for helping me understand this

great.
if you are using a connectivity kit (that powers your dvd drive from the pc) you don't have to worry about the ground wire. the only connection you have to make to the dvd drive it through the tx needle. the ground is already connected through the connectivity kit. and yes 5v is though the red wire from your pc power supply.

and the adapter you made should already share a ground with the pc through the serial port (pin 5 on the db9 connector))
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