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Author Topic: Liteon Key For Free!  (Read 2760 times)

dennisv9

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« Reply #795 on: July 15, 2009, 03:02:00 PM »

QUOTE(Bloodmaster25 @ Jul 15 2009, 03:27 PM) View Post

Ok so to explain this there is NO ratio between the values of the resistors i would say just to be safe with your 1k resistor dont go above 2k or below 0.5k and for the 10k one i would say dont go over 20k or below 8k just to be safe that will do the trick and then for your transistor you can use any transistor but for this diagram it MUST be a NPN transistor i used one not even listed in the first post but i searched on the net for the code on it to make sure it is a NPN transistor then also for the PINOUT of the transistor for the CBE pins i also dont have a probe what i ment is just the wire you use that you will hold against the R707 hole i used a normal wire with a paper clip so that wire you need to connect it to 3.3v and then you must get a reading of 0v if you dont get it then your transistor's pins are wrong you need to swap your C and E around (If you are sure you got the base "B" correct) i can guarantee you if you dont get your multimeter to show 5v when your R707 wire is not connected to 3.3v and then 0v when its connected then it will definitely not work make sure you get these readings first if you do get it from there on its simple.


i get 5 volt, and i will try to find a 3.3 volt power on my atx supply. i will stick the probe (i to use a small metal pin) it in to see if it goes to 0 volt.  

i will also try 1.5 kohm and 15 kohm resistors, maybe that will do the trick. i will once again try another resistor and, to be sure, try both ways. i now which one is the base (leg 2), so i will construct the reader again and vary with leg 1 and 3 of the transistor (to be sure that at least one is the right one with the collector and emitter being connected correctly).
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Bloodmaster25

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« Reply #796 on: July 16, 2009, 12:40:00 AM »

QUOTE(dennisv9 @ Jul 15 2009, 11:02 PM) View Post

i get 5 volt, and i will try to find a 3.3 volt power on my atx supply. i will stick the probe (i to use a small metal pin) it in to see if it goes to 0 volt.  

i will also try 1.5 kohm and 15 kohm resistors, maybe that will do the trick. i will once again try another resistor and, to be sure, try both ways. i now which one is the base (leg 2), so i will construct the reader again and vary with leg 1 and 3 of the transistor (to be sure that at least one is the right one with the collector and emitter being connected correctly).


Ok sure just look on your power connector for any sata device the orange wire is the one that gives 3.3v and the resistors you are using will do fine the reason why i said if u are sure you got the base is because transistors differ even if its a NPN transistor because your base can be leg 2 or 3 that's why i would suggest make sure the transistor you get is in fact a NPN transistor check on the net for the code on it then you will get a diagram for it as well and be 100% sure of the pins because it will show on the diagram but you are more than welcome to contact me any time for assistance i have send you a PM with my email address. smile.gif
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dennisv9

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« Reply #797 on: July 16, 2009, 02:53:00 AM »

QUOTE(Bloodmaster25 @ Jul 16 2009, 08:40 AM) View Post

Ok sure just look on your power connector for any sata device the orange wire is the one that gives 3.3v and the resistors you are using will do fine the reason why i said if u are sure you got the base is because transistors differ even if its a NPN transistor because your base can be leg 2 or 3 that's why i would suggest make sure the transistor you get is in fact a NPN transistor check on the net for the code on it then you will get a diagram for it as well and be 100% sure of the pins because it will show on the diagram but you are more than welcome to contact me any time for assistance i have send you a PM with my email address. smile.gif


i've looked up the datasheet of the different transistors. apparantly you should read the pinout (legs) from a top view (legs pointing upwards... this was my first mistake in my first reader....) but the transistor i now use has base on leg 2, so if the first try doesn't work, i will just try to switch leg 1 with 3. i don't have a sata power connector ('old' p4 atx psu), so i have to take the 3.3 volt straight out of the 20 pin atx connector... but i will give it another try, i will let you know (pm).
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Dre@m

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« Reply #798 on: July 17, 2009, 07:49:00 AM »

New home made kit. blink.gif

Key4Free USB Kit
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FalconLTD

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« Reply #799 on: July 19, 2009, 01:10:00 PM »

You could have connected the power cable to the liteon drive upside down and fried the drive. Or the tip of the probe could have shorted out something in the drive. Yes, mohomuhammad we must be missing something. Maybe my serial port dont accept these types of connections that are not strict rs232. I also tried the circuit with the xbox on anotther pc and it didnt work. I am stuck and tired and having to rebuild circuits. I just mounted back up the xbox and wait until something is invented by the hack community that does not involve 'key extractors'.   biggrin.gif  . Probably I am not cut out for soldering to modify the 360. I softmodded ps2's psp's and wii just fine. Also I want to mention, a funny thing happen to me just like you dennis, back in december when I now started to learn about modifying the 360. I built my circuit and always got nothing received by com port. Some how, during one attempt something shorted out and all of a sudden the circuit wire insulation started to melt. The pc power showed yellow which melt something shorted of. The pc also cut of. What was funny though was that on that attempt, dvdkey16 actually said comport seems working anyway. Only on that attempt it said that. After I rebuilt the circuit it was back to nothing received by com port.
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FalconLTD

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« Reply #800 on: July 19, 2009, 01:36:00 PM »

QUOTE(FalconLTD @ Dec 26 2008, 02:47 AM) View Post

I made the circuit exactly shown in the diagram, it just doesn't work. The first circuit I made always said "nothing received by com port". Once it said "Com port seems ok" and circuit burnt down literally  tongue.gif . The wire insulation started melting and smoke started to rise. I pulled all plugged. I found all new parts - transistor etc. I built a new circuit with better wires and resistors. Now it gives the same error - Nothing received by com port. I dont know what's wrong. Everything is the SAME. Please help sad.gif  uhh.gif


yes page 27. Good old times. Still doesn't work though. It has been SIX months now. Come on.
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dennisv9

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« Reply #801 on: July 19, 2009, 03:26:00 PM »

QUOTE(FalconLTD @ Jul 19 2009, 09:10 PM) View Post

You could have connected the power cable to the liteon drive upside down and fried the drive. Or the tip of the probe could have shorted out something in the drive. Yes, mohomuhammad we must be missing something. Maybe my serial port dont accept these types of connections that are not strict rs232. I also tried the circuit with the xbox on anotther pc and it didnt work. I am stuck and tired and having to rebuild circuits. I just mounted back up the xbox and wait until something is invented by the hack community that does not involve 'key extractors'.   biggrin.gif  . Probably I am not cut out for soldering to modify the 360. I softmodded ps2's psp's and wii just fine. Also I want to mention, a funny thing happen to me just like you dennis, back in december when I now started to learn about modifying the 360. I built my circuit and always got nothing received by com port. Some how, during one attempt something shorted out and all of a sudden the circuit wire insulation started to melt. The pc power showed yellow which melt something shorted of. The pc also cut of. What was funny though was that on that attempt, dvdkey16 actually said comport seems working anyway. Only on that attempt it said that. After I rebuilt the circuit it was back to nothing received by com port.


i've connected the power cable all right, i triple checked before connecting. i also tried 3 different computers, an old pentium 3 and 2 (also old) amd computers. with all i have no luck (besides off course an unusable liteon drive). on all computers i get a serial bad reading.... it can't be my soldering skills, they are more then sufficient.... well, up to buy me a new xbox 360...
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FalconLTD

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« Reply #802 on: July 19, 2009, 07:00:00 PM »

well dennis, your best choice is to buy one of the connectivity kits and try to get the key. Then buy a new drive and spoof it with that key. The drive right now sounds fried. You could have actually hit a dead end with building circuits. Does windows detect the drive? If it does then you have a chance of survival. If the drive is totally fried, then it is really a new 360.
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yaywoop

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« Reply #803 on: July 20, 2009, 08:28:00 AM »

wow I can't believe this thread is still going. 4 more posts and it will be at 1000.
honestly guys i gave up reading every post back at page 20 or so.

let me just say, if you assemble the circuit and follow the tutorial correctly, nothing should catch fire or smoke! I really can't figure out how you guys manage it.

@FalconLTD
with the problems of wires burning up.. you obviously have NOT assembled the circuit properly. if you look at the circuit diagram, there is a 1000 Ohm resistor between the 5v supply and the rest of the circuit. this resistor makes it physically impossible for the wires to burn like you describe, unless you accidentally connected it to 50,000V instead of 5V.. you must have somehow shorted out the resistor, and probably the transistor too.
google ohms law.

@dennisv9
these drives don't kill themselves. you either plugged it in upside down, or dropped something in it to short it out, or really screwed up the circuit and managed to apply 5v directly to the dvd drive. or maybe the gods are cracking down on piracy.

I might seem harsh in these comments but your problems are your own fault, not mine or anyone elses, you have made a stupid mistake somewhere. I do pity your loss of a console though.

for everyone else having problems, I have added a troubleshooting 'if it doesn't work' section to my tutorial over at http://xbox-experts....lashyourliteonf good luck
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yaywoop

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« Reply #804 on: July 20, 2009, 04:05:00 PM »

QUOTE(dennisv9 @ Jul 21 2009, 06:55 AM) View Post

my drive is still recognized by the xbox and windows itself, but it will not eject the tray anymore. so i can put 1 game in, and play it till hell freezes over (since i cannot get it out).

the drive didn't short due to the circuitry, it was my own fault (i connected the cable correctly, but it shorted due to something else). resistors and transistors are fine...

"I might seem harsh in these comments but your problems are your own fault, not mine or anyone elses, you have made a stupid mistake somewhere. I do pity your loss of a console though."

any comment that is constructive is not a problem, so that is not a problem. well, i'll just buy another xbox. they sell for less than 30 dollars (20 euro) if you buy a broken one, so that is not a big problem. that is the price that one has to pay for fiddling with electronics, if you break it... well, than it is broke and then you (I) am the only one to blame.

but, i will not give up... i will rebuild the circuitry again and test it on the fried liteon drive untill it works... i have a spare dvd drive to test it on.....

if it still plays games, you should be able to dump the key. check the output of your circuit with a multimeter.
probe connected to ground, output = 5V
probe connected to 1.5V or 3.3V, output = 0V

if you don't get these readings check the pinout of the transistor or get a new one.

as for the eject issue, can you see where the smoke came from? if you can't repair it, you can buy a new drive off ebay, make sure its a liteon.
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FalconLTD

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« Reply #805 on: July 21, 2009, 07:29:00 AM »

yaywoop, I was showing the irony. The dvdkey only said 'com port seems working' when the circuit burnt down. All other times it just said 'nothing received by com port'. But that happen as i said back in december when I was new to this. Dennis has alot of confidence in this. I packed up last december because it didnt work and I packed up again last week because it didnt work.

1 question though. Am I suppose to be getting symbols in hyperterm continuously or just now and then? I was only getting symbols now and then when I touched the probe to the pc case. A symbol would pop up and then 30 seconds later another 2 and so on...
My newest circuit that I built is sure not to burn down.
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yaywoop

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« Reply #806 on: July 21, 2009, 08:52:00 AM »

you should only get symbols when you touch the probe to a voltage source, it shouldn't really give symbols when touching the case. however it might just due to stray charges.
you should get symbols sorta continuously while you are rubbing the probe.

As a 1000't post anniversary (lol just coincidence) This assembly guide I just whipped up might help some people if the original tute wasn't detailed enough. http://xbox-experts....ssemblingaliteo
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Taken83oveR

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« Reply #807 on: July 22, 2009, 04:09:00 AM »

Got my key, thanks to this thread. I tried awhile back and had no luck. Gave it another shot with the directions from post #1001, and finally success! Much appreciated. Got everything I needed from Radio shack. (well I bought the stuff like 3-4 months ago, and just now got it working!)
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fastcar

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« Reply #808 on: July 27, 2009, 01:35:00 AM »

hi, im new to this forum and not so much experienced in circuit making at all,but i managed to put together the circuit by yaywoop that works with 4.5 v batteries

Question is,when im using the PC molex to power the adapter, where do i connect the ground cable of the adapter??im not sure of this since my PSU input of the PC is 220V and that of the xbox 360 is 110v

Thanx in advance
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Takashi

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« Reply #809 on: July 27, 2009, 01:39:00 AM »

lolwut    blink.gif
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