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[Hype]

i found this on another forum:
(IMG:http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/8584/sduibfg783ez3.jpg)

is this correct, too?
and solderless convertible?

[yaywoop]

QUOTE(allbon @ Dec 6 2008, 01:55 AM)

Well, no offence but its far from clear in your first post
 
Especially when you state that this is a "common emitter amplifier", which is wrong.
In your circuit, the transistor works as a switch 5V/0V - it doesnt amplify nor inverse voltage (V never goes below 0V).
A real CEA circuit uses low voltage alternative current as input (TTL is all but alternative and low voltage) and requires at least some capacitors to remove the continuous voltage part (thus giving -2.5<V<+2.5 instead of 0<V<5 for example).

ok point taken.
it is still basically a 'CEA' but driven to saturation.
and when i said invert, i meant logic wise. sorry for any confusion.

QUOTE(Hype @ Dec 6 2008, 11:55 AM)

i found this on another forum:


is this correct, too?
and solderless convertible?

yes  that is correct, and will work 'solder free' by use of a pin. you still need to solder the 3v point. but that is a lot easier
and the NPN transistor can be removed. as can the two 4k7 resistors and the 10k connected to it
that circuit is slightly superior to the one i posted as it provides +3.3v and -3.3v to tthe serial port.

QUOTE(baltazor @ Dec 6 2008, 10:40 AM)

Iam sure you dont speak for all of uss !!  
You see, thats wot i find troublesome about this whole thing!!   It seems, there are still some safety measures which can be overlooked and thus therefor damage the drive !!  Can you say whitout a doubt in your mind that your "simple" guide is 100% brick proof sort of speak !!
rgds,

baltaatje,

not 100%. but if you follow the guide you won't stuff up your drive.
the most important thing is that there is a 10k res between the Tx pin on the drive and your circuit. that way it is pretty much impossible to do any damage (if you use a pin to contact the tx point) most of the scrtewups are from dud soldering on the drive its self...

[kobazz]

But do I need to join R707 on the drive as given in the pic?

[yaywoop]

QUOTE(kobazz @ Dec 6 2008, 11:33 PM)

But do I need to join R707 on the drive as given in the pic?

not if you use a pin to probe the Tx signal.

[allbon]

If you want to noticeably reduce bricking risk, I'd suggest you dont try to get the 5V from the DVD or its power cable.
I suggest using a 4.5V battery or the molex 5V of your computer.

Therefore you'll need to connect only ONE wire to the DVD - and a safe one - the Tx (I dont count ground wire as you can easily tape it anywhere on the DVD metal cover).

You dont have to solder R707 if you tape a metal needle at the end of the Tx wire and put it in the correct hole - which is right under the R707 soldering points (betwee "e" and "c" letters of "Connect" word on the picture).
You only have to hold the needle in the hole for a few seconds, while key is being retreived.

[killerz]

so if i remove the 10k and the two 4k7's and the NPN will it look like this.....



man how do i add a pic

..my msn [email protected]
if yaywoop or allbon could msg me that would be awesome i did a pic that i want some1 to check before i build it
.Thx guys..

BTW awesome work



This post has been edited by killerz: Dec 6 2008, 03:03 PM

[yaywoop]

yeah to add a pic you need to use an external photo site like photobucket imageshack and the like. then use the insert image icon and paste the address for the image when asked.

using power from the pc molex is definitely a good idea. forgot to mention that
and make sure you have a good ground connection on the drive if it is being powered from the 360. a crocodile clip to any metal part of the xbox or dvd case if you have one.

it will be a lot easier if the parts are bought from radio shack or whatever electronics shop is in your area, all the parts should cost under a dollar a crocodile clip will probably be the most expensive part
also a bought transistor is guaranteed to have a datasheet and pinout available online

[killerz]

http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?image=test123gb4.jpg](IMG:http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/4288/test123gb4.th.jpg)[/URL][/img]




will this work..........i removed the 10k two 4k7 and the npn...did i reroute it correctly

[allbon]

QUOTE(Hype @ Dec 6 2008, 01:55 AM)

i found this on another forum:
http://img57.imagesh...uibfg783ez3.jpg

is this correct, too?
and solderless convertible?

This is the circuit I did, athough i also soldered the Rx wire and I strongly advise you to do the same if you go for this circuit too. Real pic : http://beta.ivancove...s232_simple.jpg
One little extra wire gives you the ability to test your soldering safely and alone, without requiring the Liteon.

Some pics



There are 3 visible wires: the shortest one is Rx (for testing), the one with needle is Tx and the remaining is Ground.
Notice that I use a homemade 4.5V battery as power supply - I find it safer that using the DVD 5V.

[brisk]

don't do this, this won't work.  If you only have one transistor, try the OP method but don't use 5V, use 3.3V instead.

QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 6 2008, 03:15 PM)

http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?image=test123gb4.jpg](IMG:http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/4288/test123gb4.th.jpg)[/URL][/img]
will this work..........i removed the 10k two 4k7 and the npn...did i reroute it correctly

[killerz]

what about what im going to do will that work?..did i reroute it correctly.... after i removed the parts?

-------------- the OP method ..whats that.?

This post has been edited by killerz: Dec 6 2008, 03:29 PM

[yaywoop]

QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 7 2008, 01:28 AM)

what about what im going to do will that work?..did i reroute it correctly.... after i removed the parts?

-------------- the OP method ..whats that.?

instead of replacing the components with wires, just leave nothing.. so get rid of those wires you added
btw i added you on msn if you need some help

[killerz]

QUOTE(allbon @ Dec 6 2008, 03:19 PM)

This is the circuit I did, athough i also soldered the Rx wire and I strongly advise you to do the same if you go for this circuit too. Real pic : http://beta.ivancover.com/wiki/images/0/04...s232_simple.jpg
One little extra wire gives you the ability to test your soldering safely and alone, without requiring the Liteon.

Some pics (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:http://pix.nofrag.com/9/f/7/34a87008d1ea35d8c5ffde03a7761.jpg)
(IMG:http://pix.nofrag.com/e/7/2/94a33a1a771c46bfffb3f3e2d9788.jpg)

There are 3 visible wires: the shortest one is Rx (for testing), the one with needle is Tx and the remaining is Ground.
Notice that I use a homemade 4.5V battery as power supply - I find it safer that using the DVD 5V.

Do you have any pic's of the underside of it

[allbon]

QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 6 2008, 03:28 PM)

what about what im going to do will that work?..did i reroute it correctly.... after i removed the parts?

-------------- the OP method ..whats that.?

brisk said it WONT work!
What MIGHT work is keeping the two 4.7kohm res and stripping everything that is behind them (transistor, 10kohm res and the wire).
But would you risk your liteon to save less than 50cts without the ability to test your circuit ?

[allbon]

QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 6 2008, 03:37 PM)

Do you have any pic's of the underside of it

It may be very hard to decyper my poor soldering skills

(i have a high res picture if needed)

Original is here :
http://picprojects.o...pleSIO/ssio.jpg
http://picprojects.o...pleSIO/ssio.htm