Topic: Liteon Update! Key Readable By Soldering Serial Port. (Read 2539 times)

matkril · « **Reply #75 on:** August 31, 2008, 12:38:00 AM »

QUOTE(xboxmoddude @ Aug 29 2008, 04:38 PM)

Here is a link to an English tutorial.
NOT TRANSLATED

http://www.turboupload.com/download/G03sXE...SpoofLiteOn.pdf

THANK YOU VERY MUCH! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

dazv6 · « **Reply #76 on:** August 31, 2008, 07:39:00 AM »

QUOTE(ILikeMeat @ Aug 31 2008, 05:07 AM)

Yes. You can solder the TX and RX to the 2 small solder points, or you can reconnect the 2 solder points and use the 2 bigger solder points under the power connector.

Cheers buddy, thats what i was thinking, its less work for the same result..

Ree1981 · « **Reply #77 on:** August 31, 2008, 11:11:00 AM »

QUOTE(dazv6 @ Aug 31 2008, 04:15 PM)

Cheers buddy, thats what i was thinking, its less work for the same result..

Would you mind explaining this to me? I've ordered an Xecuter connectivity kit but I still don't get where I'm supposed to solder the two extra cables 'cause of that crummy tut. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

dazv6 · « **Reply #78 on:** August 31, 2008, 11:47:00 AM »

QUOTE(Ree1981 @ Aug 31 2008, 06:11 PM)

Would you mind explaining this to me? I've ordered an Xecuter connectivity kit but I still don't get where I'm supposed to solder the two extra cables 'cause of that crummy tut.

If you look at the pic of the liteon board you will see 4 points to solder your cable to, vcc, tx, rx, gnd, and 2 solder points below those to reconnect. Now, instead of reconnecting the 2 bottom solder points just solder the tx to the bottom right point and the rx to the bottom left solder point and the vcc and ground to the normal points. This cuts down on a bit of work and should give the same result, the 2 bottom points that you reconnect go directly to the tx and rx main solder points on the board. Then just use the connectivity kit to power the drive as normal. There is no need to solder the extra wires from the max3232 to the connectivity kit.

podger · « **Reply #79 on:** August 31, 2008, 12:56:00 PM »

QUOTE(dazv6 @ Aug 31 2008, 06:23 PM)

If you look at the pic of the liteon board you will see 4 points to solder your cable to, vcc, tx, rx, gnd, and 2 solder points below those to reconnect. Now, instead of reconnecting the 2 bottom solder points just solder the tx to the bottom right point and the rx to the bottom left solder point and the vcc and ground to the normal points. This cuts down on a bit of work and should give the same result, the 2 bottom points that you reconnect go directly to the tx and rx main solder points on the board. Then just use the connectivity kit to power the drive as normal. There is no need to solder the extra wires from the max3232 to the connectivity kit.

I would strongly advise against this approach... It's very likely if you are not careful that you will rip the pads off the pcb and mostly likely decap the via.... These pads are absolutely tiny, even soldering to them could be enough to remove them

Be warned...

Ree1981 · « **Reply #80 on:** August 31, 2008, 01:53:00 PM »

Thanks podger (and thanks for making me $200 so far on v79 mods

).

I'm just gonna use conductive paint on the two pads. What I'm wondering is if I can solder a solution using that MAX3232 thing and a Xecuter connectivity kit, since the 4 "big" solder pads just seem to connect to the connectivity kit in the first place.

Can't I just solder the MAX3232 thing to the connectivity kit?

XmodsUK · « **Reply #81 on:** August 31, 2008, 04:00:00 PM »

QUOTE(Ree1981 @ Aug 31 2008, 08:53 PM)

Can't I just solder the MAX3232 thing to the connectivity kit?

http://translate.goo...t...sl=fr&tl=en

According to this, yes you can.

Not tried it myself yet.

Ree1981 · « **Reply #82 on:** August 31, 2008, 04:57:00 PM »

Yeah, I Finally got what Google translator tried to tell me. Since the wires in the Xecuter connectivity kits are the same ones that you're supposed to solder on the actual Lite-on board you can just solder them to the Xecuter kit instead of to the board. Saves time in the future if you're a modder like me too.

The two 'gaps' on the board still have to be soldered though, but I'm gonna use conductive paint. It's a little expensive, but apparently it comes right off with q-tip after the job is done. In other words, only 4 solderings needed.

dazv6 · « **Reply #83 on:** September 01, 2008, 08:17:00 AM »

QUOTE(podger @ Aug 31 2008, 08:32 PM)

I would strongly advise against this approach... It's very likely if you are not careful that you will rip the pads off the pcb and mostly likely decap the via.... These pads are absolutely tiny, even soldering to them could be enough to remove them
Be warned...

Cheers podger, i think i will go with the conductive paint that ree1981 mentioned for the 2 points that need reconnecting, no chance of lifting the pads that way.

Ree1981 · « **Reply #84 on:** September 01, 2008, 09:31:00 AM »

.....D'oh. I don't even have a com/serial port on my computer. Another thing to get I guess. ^^;

VoDa · « **Reply #85 on:** September 01, 2008, 10:01:00 AM »

QUOTE(ILikeMeat @ Aug 25 2008, 01:01 AM)

Hmmm...no it doesn't.

IPB Image

Hi Guys...
I have one little question.
If i look into manual there is one problem. There is wrote:

Cable RS232 --------------> Connectivity Kit

Gnd ===================> 1 Gnd ===================> 1
V+ ====================> 10 V + ====================> 10

but on the picture the arrow not showing to the point 10 but show to the point 8!!!

And if i look to the picture with DVDrom PCB there is same problem... 3V show to the
point 8....

What is right???

I have only one describtion of this problem:

1) Nomally pins signings:

1 3 5 7 9 11
2 4 6 8 10 12

2) if i counting right on the picture are pins signed:

1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 10 11 12

Its my opinion right? The pins 8 and 10 is same or in the picture is mistake???

its only my question, because i dont wont burning my x360 drive and RS232

Thanks for answers

VoDa

P.S. I apologize for my terrible english

xlinkx · « **Reply #86 on:** September 01, 2008, 01:31:00 PM »

Can someone please tell me if connectivity kit version 1 will work?

Ree1981 · « **Reply #87 on:** September 01, 2008, 03:24:00 PM »

VoDa> The pic points to the right pin, but writes the wrong number. The right number is 8 as you said.

xlinkx> It will, but only as a power supplier. You can't use the buttons on it, so you have to manually eject the drive half-way before plugging the v1 kit in... in other words, useless.

xlinkx · « **Reply #88 on:** September 01, 2008, 07:34:00 PM »

QUOTE(Ree1981 @ Sep 2 2008, 12:00 AM)

VoDa> The pic points to the right pin, but writes the wrong number. The right number is 8 as you said.

xlinkx> It will, but only as a power supplier. You can't use the buttons on it, so you have to manually eject the drive half-way before plugging the v1 kit in... in other words, useless.

Why cant you use the eject button then power off then push in the drive half way

Ree1981 · « **Reply #89 on:** September 01, 2008, 09:46:00 PM »

Just repeating what I read. I have no experience with it.

Author Topic: Liteon Update! Key Readable By Soldering Serial Port. (Read 2539 times)