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[flash360]

Just installed my first pass key. I double checked all my connections for bridges, put it back in the xbox hooked up to my pc sata and earth, and switched it on with an original in the drive.
The light on the passkey did not come on, I pressed eject and it ejected a few times (one press only).
Then i tried booting the pc and xbox again and it would not eject anymore (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)  I hooked it up to my tv plugged the sata cable back in switched it on and tried the eject button. The dash said closing then after a couple of seconds it went back to opening (never open tray) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)  Then the e64 message with quadrant 3 flashing, 3 o'clock to 6 o,clock. I checked the exact error code it's 1000.

Any ideas (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif) Have i bricked my drive or corrupted the info on the chip and therefor bricked my xbox.

Helllllllp (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

[flash360]

Just tried it again i'v took the pass key off but the cable is still attached. when it switches on it already says opening if i press eject it changes to closing but the tray dosent move (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
not getting the error msg or code anymore. I just looked the code up and it says : 1000 Kernel can't be launched/signature in NAND Flash chip is broken! It could be possible after bad update. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

[afex505]

i would uninstall the cable header and put everything back to normal, then see if it boots (it should). if i had to guess i'd say the cable header was shorting a few pins, and not letting the FW get read correctly. (i know you said you checked it) - it'd be pretty tough for the FW to get written to without you actually trying to write to it...

as an engineer, i'd compare it to a masterlock magically opening it because you kick it 3 times and happen to hit the numbers.  : )

[smokeDOGGbaby]

I would clean all the solder off of the traces and see if then it boots up ,then reinstall the passkey it worked for me in the past.

[flash360]

Thanks for the replies I'l try removing the headder tomorrow. I think the problem might be the 3.3v wire though, I think i might have damaged the traces (tp516 and c509) would this stop the drive ejecting?
When the light on the pass key didn't come on I thought the wire was the bad connection so I resoldered it. I think it was after that it stopped ejecting.
 Or the wire connectors on the pass key could have shorted on the gpu heatsink because I didnt have the bottom of the drive on and the pass key was not sufficiently insulated. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

[cory1492]

I doubt it's your install. I (and others here) have had similar issues with the 79FL, tried every test I could think of to make it work. What it actually came down to was...
1 - making sure the power plug was firmly socketed (else I got weird errors like that update error)
2 - keep re-powering that console until you see the light come on right at powerup (for 2 seconds) and the lens does its quick seek to check for a disk. Sometime it did it the first power up for me, sometimes it to 10-15 goes.

Once I got the lite, I shut it off and put in a game disk and power cycled until the lite came and the disk spun fast. After that it was just waiting on the PC to boot up and getting into maximus toolbox to get a drive dump.

[flash360]

Thanks cory, sounds like I was about there and I should of kept tryin a bit longer. My problem now is the eject won't work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)  I'v tried another drive on it to make sure it's not affected the 360 it ejects fine but obviously wont run games as it's not got the drive key on it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
I think it's tp516 the 3.3v connection I think I broke the trace when resoldering it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
Could anyone tell me would this stop the drive from ejecting?

[afex505]

you could always boot it and check for voltage on that pad...

[NookularDeath]

did you remove all the epoxy off the flashchip or just those on the access pads??

if you removed all the epoxy, you might have induced a cold solder joint on one
side of the flash chip.

worse case scenario would be you somehow fried the controller chip (Panasonic).

if you live in the USA and want me to look at it, PM me and I'll check it out for
$35.

I usually take the flash chip completely off and pull the key out with my external
programmer and then erase the chip and flash with virgin 78 series firmware
with the extracted key and then resolder the chip and then upgrade to iXtreme
1.4 and spoof the drive as a 79. That way you don't need to use a passkey anymore.

[cory1492]

QUOTE(flash360 @ Jan 24 2008, 07:33 AM)

Thanks cory, sounds like I was about there and I should of kept tryin a bit longer. My problem now is the eject won't work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)  

I guess I should have also mentioned, with the passkey installed, unless I got no lite + laser moving and disk spinning, or unless I got the light - the eject button would never work no matter how many times I pressed it.

I think the passkey has a slightly off timing in some boot conditions that basically results in the firmware acting like it is corrupt (I saw as a result e64, e65, e71, and an update error in dash once when I unknowingly had the power adapter only partially inserted.)

Any rate, pictures speak a 1000 words, I don't think the in trace tp's are mounted over vias so if there is damage you should be able to tell with a dmm if a trace is broken. I'm assuming you have the header off now though, and are sure there are no crossed traces where you tried to place it?

[flash360]

woooooooo I got the drive workin again it was the broken pad tp516 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Now i'm faced with the dilema, do i cary on and resolder the header which took half of a few pads with it when it came off, or just thank my lucky stars that I managed to fix it and admit defeat?
cory what gauge wire do you use for the power? Also can i make the firmware as a 78 without desoldering the chip, or can this only be done with an external programmer?
Thanks for all the help peeps (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[NookularDeath]

QUOTE(flash360 @ Jan 25 2008, 09:05 AM)

woooooooo I got the drive workin again it was the broken pad tp516 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Now i'm faced with the dilema, do i cary on and resolder the header which took half of a few pads with it when it came off, or just thank my lucky stars that I managed to fix it and admit defeat?
cory what gauge wire do you use for the power? Also can i make the firmware as a 78 without desoldering the chip, or can this only be done with an external programmer?
Thanks for all the help peeps (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

to downgrade the firmware to a 78 series, you have to remove the chip and use an external programmer.

hearing that you lifted pads and broke some traces just trying to put the header on, I'd say let someone
else do it like myself. $35 and I'l turn your drive into a 78 spoofed as a 79, then no more passkey needed.

to fix lifted or broken traces, I use the smallest guage wire you can get. a pair of fine tweezers and a magnifying glass. you can use a single strand of cooper wire from a multistrand piece of wire to bridge
the broken traces. but you need a steady hand and a fine point SMT (surface mount tech) soldering tip.

I've got alll the tools.. if you want it fixed right, PM me.

[flash360]

Thanks nookular but im in the uk. I'm not far from slimgrip and ash actualy. but im not admiting defeat just yet (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
Once more in to the breach (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[ash1471]

QUOTE(flash360 @ Jan 25 2008, 06:01 PM)

Thanks nookular but im in the uk. I'm not far from slimgrip and ash actualy. but im not admiting defeat just yet (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
Once more in to the breach (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Got your text ring me mate Ive got no credit.




ASH

[cory1492]

Good stuff flash360 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I used 30AWG on the power/ground and 32AWG magnet wire on the header (not to be confused with SWG gauges, of course.) I ditched the FPC in favor of wires, much easier to trace the connections and be sure they are solid.