Print

[ILLusions0fGrander]

however... when i put it in my pc, it read as a 605b, however when i put any media in it, it will sound lke its scanning the disk, then sometime will sound like its about to break, (spinning wildly, hitting the top and shit)
when i boot it, the light comes on and flashes...  the eject button works... but it wont read...

now, when i put it in my xbox, and connect it to the yelllow wires, its read in my dash as a 605b, and the xbox eject button works, when i shut down the xbox with the tray open, it closes it...

however, when i use the button on the xbox to open it.. it says "open" and when i close it, it says empty without saying closing or checking...
and sometimes, when i open it, it says checking before it even says opening, then real fast says unknown and boots ms dashboard.

im pretty sure my solder points are good, and have no clue what could cause these symptoms... and ive already spend more money (having already fried a 616) on this than would have cost to buy a brand new sammy 605.

so any help would be greatly appretiated...

running unleashx, using a y power adapter.

in recap, symptoms are...

1. disk spins crazily like its breaking in drive somtimes
2. hitting eject on xbox opens it, says open, but when i close it, it just goes directly to empty.
3. sometimes hitting hte xbox eject button, will make it go directly to checking, then rapidly to unknown and boot ms dash.
4. will not read any disks in pc or box, but is read in both as 605b.

and thats all the info i can provide...
thanks again in advance.

[ILLusions0fGrander]

yea, that was the first thing i did.

[ILLusions0fGrander]

i dont have a multimeter, and have spent quite a bit already...
dont know if i will get one or not

[ILLusions0fGrander]

i apologize for the continuous bumping, but im hoping somoene whos done this before will see it....

anyways, i think it will work, now my main issue is the rattling, like its loose inside the drive, and it spins rapidly like its going to break the disk, if i hold it real tight it slows down, and all the screws are tight...

maybe the (excuse the lack of terminology) part the moves up and holds the disk isnt moving up, and its allowing extra room to spin?
i dont know, but i have two drives, so im sure i have enough parts for at least one working drive.

i did get it to read audio for a breif second.

this will be my last post, and ill try and pm someone whos done it before, thanks

[OcnewB]

Sorry m8 can't help you out here. All i know is about error's. As you can see in my tuts.

[MasterOfDisaster]

i had the problems 1. and 2. too

it has to do with the timing of the tray in an tray out, you can read this tutorial

http://pirate.sparkh...amsung/fix.html

it worked half for me. the spinning problem was solved, but open status did not worked everytime. sometimes the drive opened, status changed to open, but i couldn't close it again with the eject button! it only closed again when i pushed it with my hand. to solve this problem i modified my tray so that it gives earlier the status "open" back.

sorry that i have no pics for this, but i dont have digicam at the moment! maybe ill get one this evening from my girlfriend,then making pics of my selfmod and post them here.

PS: Hope you understand my english cause i'm not very good in speaking english.
PS2: Try already the first tutorial, maybe it resolves all you problem already

[t0il3t]

I have the same problem! ... and a voltmeter:

@troubleshooting experiment for this situation:

If I place one lead of my DC voltmeter on TRin and the other on TRout I see the following conditions:
Tray Open= (either + 3,3VDC or - 3,3VDC)
In transition=( 0V DC)
Tray Closed=(Either - 3,3VDC or + 3,3VDC)
If I continue to close the tray manually:
Tray Closed= 0V (then the drive works!!)


If I place one lead of my DC voltmeter on Ground and the other on TRout I see these conditions:
Tray Open= 0V
in transition= +/- 3,3V
Tray Closed= +/- 3,3V
If I continue to close the tray manually:
Tray Closed= 0V (then the drive works!!)

If I place one lead of my DC voltmeter on Ground and the other on TRin I see these conditions:
Tray Open= +/- 3,3V
in transition= +/- 3,3V
Tray Closed= 0V

[OverG]

I have taken apart my new 616t to look into this.

I am convinced that the problem is that TRin signal is going active (0V) before the tray is FULLY closed.
I also believe this small timing error is due a slight mechanical alignment problem. This alignment problem is between the tray position and the switches that detect the tray position.  This aligment problem probably occurs when we dissassemble the unit for our mods.  Ever notice the red marks on the "lifter" assembly? ..I bet those were used at the factory to set this up. I don't know how they adjusted it though...(yet) Anyone here work in a CD_Rom plant?lol

I must admit that the best fix would be to actually correct the aligment issue...but since we don't know how (without cutting material away anyhow) perhaps we should consider the possibility of fixing this electrically.

Look at the front PCB labeled "D-6 Deck Front PCB".  On this PCB you can see two swiches. (SW702) One switch is labeled OPEN and the other is labeled CLOSED. Both switches have one side tied to ground.  The opposite side of each switch goes to a 100ohm resistor. I was able to simulate your problem by manually shorting the "Closed" switch while the tray was closing.

Look just left of the  switches and you will see two unoccupied capacitor locations. (C713 and C712). C713 is associated with the CLOSE and C712 is associated with the OPEN. Maybe Samsung suspected that they might need to delay/debounce these signals. (perhaps that is why the solder pads are there).

[Edited out suggestion till i try it myself]

If someone wants Pics of my 616t ...let me know.

Then again..maybe i am full of crap and don't know sh**.
Sorry I rambled on about this way more than I intended.
Regards,
OverG

[t0il3t]

I had seen these unoccupied capacitor places, too.
Would be great if capacitors could help.

However I've already done this cutting mod. There's no scratching anymore! But I stopped cutting at this point ("no scratching point"). Now the CLOSE switch is pushed when tray is closed but not the OPEN switch, because the white part isn't moved enough. But I'm not sure if I shall continue cutting or if it should already work this way?!


Could you look for the closed status on your T, please?

GREAT!    reeeaally great...  
looks like there's something else that now doesn't work correctly. Maybe I analyzed it too much while I was searching for the reason of the main problem!

[OverG]

This is what i measured. All measurement s referanced to GND.  (black - lead of meter to Gnd)

[t0il3t]

QUOTE

Same Post At Hardware-Modding-Forum the rotor which should spin a CD/DVD doesnt lift enough to spin a CD/DVD when the tray has taken it into the drive!! I can do it manually and then everything works well... I've flashed the drive with 605 Firmware, later with FW of my own original 605(however same problem). I've soldered the 4 wires and the 4 wires for power to one connector which fits to the plug at the "yellow cable"(so i dont need a Y-Adapter-Cable to get the power from HDD). And I have turned the motor. Later I changed TrayIn and TrayOut points(because i read it somewhere). Now the drive even closes the tray when i shut down the box while tray is out!     But there is still the same problem with the rotor.  what I've already done/looked for: -motor does work fine(tried it with another motor, too) -while tray is moving, motor becomes ~4.2V -if tray moved in, motor has ~2.5V difference to ground for ~5sec. but motor doesnt move -I put on every moving part grease -I sanded the rail which pushes the rotor up/down -if i push the rail till its end manually and press the open button on the xbox then the motor cant push it back to open the tray -nothing gets stuck My opinion: Looks like the motor for the tray doesnt become power long enough so it stops right in the middle when the motor should lift the rotor up into the hole in a CD/DVD! Maybe a broken IC ? Thank you all for any help !! ... And reading the whole post !! PS: Drive is from December 2001, F/W:F101, H/W:A

This was my own threat, but I've stopped it, so we can concentrate together on this one!

[t0il3t]

I don't have these capacitors. Thought you wouldn't have them, too?!

[OverG]

I would try it before filing anymore stuff though.

The rmainder of this post is for desperate people only!
Following this  could potentially do really bad things to your drive..like make the gears fly apart. That would be a bad thing.

The electronic way of trying to fudge TRin to delay:
I would cut the trace between "closed" switch contact and the +Cap solder pad, I would then solder a 10Kpot across here. (Note: it would be nice to do this on GND side of switch..but not practical due to switch mounting/gnd plane)
I would then solder a 10uF Cap in the unstuffed location.  Start with pot at zero ohms and make sure it doesn't act worse than before!...lol  Then start increasing the pot value I believe the tray should stop later (while closing) as you increase value of pot.

In the pipe-dream that this actually works..i would replace the pot with a resistor once you have value "tweaked" the setup in.
This should take about as long to preform as it took me to type this...
I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS MYSELF so bewarned that the large rise/fall times on this signal may drive the DVD electronics nuts. I dunno? Do you wanna grab the soldering iron instead of a file this time?   ( Please take that as a frienly jest.)
If you do try this..let us know the results.
Regards,
OverG

[t0il3t]

QUOTE

2-I still believe the TRin Signal is actativating  too early on your drive. This would  explain why the lifter assembly is not going to all the way up. (The TRin switch tells it to stop before it was finished)

yes, I also think about this like you, because after cutting (shorting the time of TRin signal) the motor works long enough.

QUOTE

Also try a  various position of the mating gear. (i did notice a small arrow in the plastic gear that mates tray to lifter arm-that might indicate an alignment to the partial gear below)

I also realized this arrow with a hole in it. Under this gear there's a bigger hole. Don't know what it does.

I think I broke that chip next to the connector of the cable from the spinner to the bigger PCB, because I made a short circuit while I was measuring it.

BTW hope you understand my english!