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Author Topic: 0079fk In A Nutshell  (Read 85 times)

RoboChicken

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« on: September 30, 2007, 09:22:00 PM »

1. Dismantle your X79 and remove the circuit board from the drive or else you'll melt the surrounding plastics.
2. Warm up your heat gun and heat up only the area you need to solder too.
3. Make one nice clean cut across
4. Start flicking off pieces of the glue with an exacto knife

Steps 3 and 4 is where you can really screw up. Too much heat and you could fry your board. Too little heat and you'll rip your traces off.

5. Lightly scrape your traces one by one. This removes enamel and remaining glue. Scrape till it's a bit shiny.
6. Cover your traces with a small amount of liquid flux
7. Apply solder:

(IMG:http://www.sdmods.com/images/79FK/IMG_0001.JPG)

8. Solder your wires to the board:

(IMG:http://www.sdmods.com/images/79FK/IMG_0002.JPG)

9. Mount your chip and solder the wires to the chip:

(IMG:http://www.sdmods.com/images/79FK/IMG_0004.JPG)

10. Flash like your doing a 78
11. Disconnect chip, snip tips, cover with electrical tape and save for later uprades:

(IMG:http://www.sdmods.com/images/79FK/IMG_0006.JPG)

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Skyzo

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2007, 02:07:00 AM »

Nice little tutorial, RoboChicken.
From my own experience, I find removing the eproxy covering the left side of the TSOP chip (next to the soldering area) would later help test for continuity from the TSOP chip legs to the passkey. I know it takes extra effort but it's a sure way to test if your soldering job was done properly. Also, if you're worry about melting/overheating the board or close by components, just coverup the board with tin foil exposing just the TSOP chip. It worked great for me.  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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RoboChicken

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2007, 09:12:00 AM »

QUOTE(Skyzo @ Oct 1 2007, 01:07 AM) *

Nice little tutorial, RoboChicken.
From my own experience, I find removing the eproxy covering the left side of the TSOP chip (next to the soldering area) would later help test for continuity from the TSOP chip legs to the passkey. I know it takes extra effort but it's a sure way to test if your soldering job was done properly. Also, if you're worry about melting/overheating the board or close by components, just coverup the board with tin foil exposing just the TSOP chip. It worked great for me.  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Foil is a great idea thanks for the tip!  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Ray2Kay

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2007, 10:26:00 PM »

what up robo man long time no see on the scene.................you taught me what i know today. thanx man
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RoboChicken

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2007, 11:56:00 AM »

Whats up Ray!

Yeah, I just can't stay away  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) this stuff is too much fun!

You should take a crack at a 79 - not as hard as a PS2, but you definitely have to be careful

This post has been edited by RoboChicken: Oct 4 2007, 06:57 PM
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Ray2Kay

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2007, 05:01:00 PM »

Tell me about it i think i need a smaller solder iron. you know of any cheap places to order
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Exobex

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2007, 03:43:00 PM »

I'd recommend using a gas powered soldering iron with a hot air tip, rather than a full-blown hot air gun.  This is what I use:-
(IMG:http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/300/n13ar.jpg)

Bought it on special offer a few weeks back - twenty quid! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
(I wouldn't use it for the soldering though - I use an Antex TC50SD for that!)

This post has been edited by Exobex: Oct 12 2007, 10:44 PM
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caster420

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2007, 03:51:00 PM »

I use a pyropen as well, better than a hotair gun IMO.  

 

 

Caster.

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RoboChicken

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #8 on: October 12, 2007, 04:04:00 PM »

I must get me one of those pens! So much safer than my 6" diameter heatgun  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif). Is it blowing hot air or flames? Looks like a 70W goes up to 450C. Is that sufficient enough and are these pens adjustable?

This post has been edited by RoboChicken: Oct 12 2007, 11:06 PM
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caster420

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #9 on: October 12, 2007, 04:15:00 PM »

Forgot to say - Nice tutorial RoboChicken. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

QUOTE(RoboChicken @ Oct 12 2007, 06:04 PM) *
I must get me one of those pens! So much safer than my 6" diameter heatgun (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) . Is it blowing hot air or flames? Looks like a 70W goes up to 450C. Is that sufficient enough and are these pens adjustable?

It blows hot air when using that tip.  Mine works well and it is adjustable. I have a weller pyropen. Here is what it states...

"Manually ignited butane gas operated, soldering iron with solder, hot blow and blow torch functions. The tool has a rapid heat up time and duration of operation from one filling of approx. 3 hours. It is temperature variable between 350°C to 500°C when used as a soldering iron and up to 650°C when used as a hot air blower and 1300°C when used as a blow torch."



Caster.

NOTE:  AS EXOBEX STATED, DO NOT USE THESE FOR SOLDERING ON ANY XBOX COMPONENTS.  BUY AN ACTUAL SOLDERING IRON!!!!


This post has been edited by caster420: Oct 12 2007, 11:25 PM
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VanydotK

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2007, 03:21:00 AM »

Those solder points look really really close and I'm about 90% sure I'm going to ruin my drive if I try this. Do you guys think that there will be a software flash solution sometime in the future or is that out of the quesiton and hardware is the only way it's going to be done?
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foaley77

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #11 on: October 14, 2007, 06:13:00 AM »

Would this one here do the job do you think http://www.chantronics.com.au/item347.htm
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BenieUK

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #12 on: October 14, 2007, 07:39:00 AM »

QUOTE
I'd recommend using a gas powered soldering iron with a hot air tip, rather than a full-blown hot air gun. This is what I use:-


Thanks for the tip, worked a treat  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)  Still awaiting for my 30awg before i can try the soldering part  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)
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caster420

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #13 on: October 14, 2007, 08:44:00 AM »

QUOTE(VanydotK @ Oct 14 2007, 05:21 AM) *
Do you guys think that there will be a software flash solution sometime in the future or is that out of the quesiton


Out of the question...

Caster.
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sanj

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0079fk In A Nutshell
« Reply #14 on: October 14, 2007, 10:13:00 AM »

QUOTE(Exobex @ Oct 12 2007, 10:43 PM) *

I'd recommend using a gas powered soldering iron with a hot air tip, rather than a full-blown hot air gun.  This is what I use:-
(IMG:http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/300/n13ar.jpg)

Bought it on special offer a few weeks back - twenty quid! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
(I wouldn't use it for the soldering though - I use an Antex TC50SD for that!)


I got the same gas powered soldering iron(from maplin's like yourself for £20) and the 79fl epoxy is a piece of piss to remove,much more control over the area you want to heat up,best thing i've bought in ages.
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