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[Alan M]

QUOTE(Toddler @ Sep 23 2007, 08:46 PM)

4. Yes, you have to reconnect the traces to use it again in the 360.  BenQ stealth firmware is coming any day, so you might want to wait and flash it before reconnecting the traces.

Why do you have to reconnect the traces?  Isn't that the job that the switch does?  My Benq is working just fine in my Elite right now, with the switch mounted on the side of the drive case and left 'on'.

[whynotdoit]

QUOTE(Shepdog @ Sep 3 2007, 07:52 PM)

Tried dosflash32 and this is what it says.
http://tinypic.com/v...php?pic=4r7tu78

When I try the dosflash32 program in windows I get the same thing when I boot my DOS6.22 bootdisk with dosflash on it I do get the drive listed but when I chose it, it says unknown flash? does anyone know what the issue may be? or how I can fix this? any solutions, suggestions, or if need be questions on my setup would be greatly appreciated.

[whynotdoit]

SORRY THE INFO IN THAT LAST POST IS NOT CORRECT:

When I boot to DOS, do the procedure and run dosflash for the drive it says:

0xA800 SATA Pri Master ATAPI No Identity Possible
Flash ManuID:00 DevID:00 Size:0 bytes Name:MTK Vendor Intro Failed

and when I try the window's ver it shows and ATAPI drive but also says identity not possible

I have double checked the traces and solder points and switch with multimeter all as they should be? if anyone has any idea how I can get this working I would greatly appreciate it.

THANKS

[p3eps]

QUOTE(Alan M @ Sep 24 2007, 11:12 PM)

Why do you have to reconnect the traces?  Isn't that the job that the switch does?  My Benq is working just fine in my Elite right now, with the switch mounted on the side of the drive case and left 'on'.

No... thats not what the switch does!  It joins the 2 cut traces to each other - not to where they were originally cut from.  Strange that it still works!

[bond0074]

Hi

i did mine with a 4 way dip switch that fits in a ic socket and use just 3 of the switches 1+2 on and 3 off for normal mode and for read and writing flash 1+2 off and 3 on. and fit the switch on the outside of the dvdrom drive works a treat


cheers

[Z4ndX]

Hi ...

My Xbox Pre got the Ring of Death, so i bought an Elite..

So i need to extract the the BenQ FW, get the key and paste it in my hacked hitachi FW. BUT, Firmware toolbox  can only spoof to 62430C and i'v got the 64930C.
How do i spoof to 64930C??

Can i use Firmware toolbox to find, copy and paste my key from one FW to another?

Z4ndX

[TheBostik]

I'm in the process of dumping my benQ, and really kinda screwed up the bottom right trace. I kept testing it with the multimeter, and was getting 5 kOhms, and so I kept scraping a little more and a little more away. I think the top one is good, it goes near infinity, actually probably more around 30-40 kOhms. What am I aiming for here?

The picture is of the board as it is currently, and there is still only 5 kOhm resistance at the cut on the bottom trace. I think perhaps there is a bridge to the sides around the gap. Is there some way to seal this? Is it completely screwed?

I was thinking clear nail polish or something, but maybe there is a product specifically for doing stuff like this. Or if there is something else that can be done here... I'm definitely all ears.

Thanks.



(click thumbnail)

[Toddler]

You've removed a lot more of the board than I did, and I did it without a multimeter.  Solder your wires and try to dump.

[p3eps]

You're only supposed to be cutting between the dark green bits!

Set the multimeter to continuity - (speaker type icon) and it will beep if you touch the 2 leads together.
Place one lead on one side of your cut and the other on the other side - and if it beeps you haven't cut it right.

It certainly LOOKS like you've cut right through though (and a whole lot more!).  As Toddler says... try soldering a couple of wires on and see if you can dump it.

QUOTE(Z4ndX @ Sep 25 2007, 02:54 PM)

Hi ...

My Xbox Pre got the Ring of Death, so i bought an Elite..

So i need to extract the the BenQ FW, get the key and paste it in my hacked hitachi FW. BUT, Firmware toolbox  can only spoof to 62430C and i'v got the 64930C.
How do i spoof to 64930C??

Can i use Firmware toolbox to find, copy and paste my key from one FW to another?

Z4ndX

If you used the search function like I suggested in an earlier thread you'd have probably found this one:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=620466

[TheBostik]

Thanks for the replies guys, I did the soldering and using DosFlash after booting to the dos command, and it's working. Sorta.

for some reason, I think something still isn't working quite right, because when the switch is OFF, when I turn on the xbox, the drive starts powering on and seeking. if I flip to ON and hit enter, I can see the drive model number but nothing else, it finds no readable flash.

If I start with the switch ON, and then turn xbox power on, flip switch to OFF and hit enter, I can see the drive, and the flash, but when I try to dump it, it is stuck on Bank 0 for >30 seconds (I figured it should not take nearly that long).

What the hell am I doing wrong here, everything is soldered great, although if it would help I could take a picture of that.

[Z4ndX]

QUOTE(p3eps @ Sep 25 2007, 07:54 PM)

If you used the search function like I suggested in an earlier thread you'd have probably found this one:
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=620466

Yeah i did search alot but with no luck ..

[Toddler]

QUOTE(TheBostik @ Sep 25 2007, 02:43 PM)

Thanks for the replies guys, I did the soldering and using DosFlash after booting to the dos command, and it's working. Sorta.

for some reason, I think something still isn't working quite right, because when the switch is OFF, when I turn on the xbox, the drive starts powering on and seeking. if I flip to ON and hit enter, I can see the drive model number but nothing else, it finds no readable flash.

If I start with the switch ON, and then turn xbox power on, flip switch to OFF and hit enter, I can see the drive, and the flash, but when I try to dump it, it is stuck on Bank 0 for >30 seconds (I figured it should not take nearly that long).

What the hell am I doing wrong here, everything is soldered great, although if it would help I could take a picture of that.

I did the read in Windows, it was much faster than DOS and I never got a good read in DOS mode.

[TheBostik]

QUOTE(Toddler @ Sep 25 2007, 04:20 PM)

I did the read in Windows, it was much faster than DOS and I never got a good read in DOS mode.

dosflash32 makes my computer run really slowly, and sometimes crash. I have no idea. The dos version works... but something else is WACKY.

When I do the switch flipping the way instructed in the tutorial, I get the 0x00 display, flash size 0kb, all that good stuff, and the VAD6038 model number.

When I do it backwards, I can see all the drive info, but apparently only for a split second for the computer to grab that data, because when I try to dump the flash, nothing happens.

Is this just a symptom of SATA incompatability (using an MSI K8N neo... old nforce 3 chipset, so it could be an issue)?



Let me add a little more detail. When the switch is off, and I turn the 360 on, the drive spins up, or does something. When the switch is on from the beginning, nothing happens. When should I be flipping the switch from off to on (and hitting enter), right after the drive is finished moving or during the movement?
-OR-
... is it not even supposed to move at all when the switch is off and something is wonky?


Hopefully someone will be able to think of a way for me to figure out what the problem is, I've been trying anything I could think of here, short of resoldering (the points look great, by the way) or stealing   a new SATA controller.

[whynotdoit]

Just wanted to say I used dosflash 1.2 and it worked fine in DOS I didn't try the windows version

[TheBostik]

QUOTE(whynotdoit @ Sep 25 2007, 05:11 PM)

Just wanted to say I used dosflash 1.2 and it worked fine in DOS I didn't try the windows version

how did you fix the problem you were having up the page?