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[comhen]

Why would one pick method 2 over method 1, for advanced uses
They both do the same thing, anything different apart from method two being harder?

[ekruob]

QUOTE(comhen @ Aug 29 2007, 04:41 PM)

Why would one pick method 2 over method 1, for advanced uses
They both do the same thing, anything different apart from method two being harder?

Advanced method is faster as it is on a more accessible part of the PCB.

...suitable for people doing about a dozen drives a day ;-)

[matycon]

ok so from the pictures it looks as if there are 2 parallel lines. Am i connect in assuming the trace to cut and solder in everything in between those? Also, does this switch need to be soldered in using the 30 gauge Kynarwire? The pic doesnt look like the wire is all that thin at all.

Thanks in advance, i have never done the Vcc trick with the ms28 since i always used a via card so i have soldered anything on the circuit board as of yet.

-maty

[KingovGames]

That's what I was gonna ask. Is the trace what's in between the two dark green lines, or is the trace the 2 dark green lines? If it's the dark green lines which ones do I cut, there are 4 in total on both sides.

[caster420]

QUOTE(ekruob @ Aug 29 2007, 03:33 AM)

Advanced method is faster as it is on a more accessible part of the PCB.

...suitable for people doing about a dozen drives a day ;-)

Nope, i wouldnt say that at all.  On a retail board, method 2 is entirely covered in white epoxy/resin.  So, removing all of that just to be able to flash when you could simply flip the pcb over and have access to the traces which have no resin isnt easier for even more advanced people.  More advanced people should be able to cut the traces and solder the wire in little to no time and would be the easiest IMO.

That being said, there is one major advantage to method 2 - you can install a single switch and be able to flash, then go back to normal operation for testing the firmware, then overwrite with a flash with new update, etc..  With method1, you would need multiple switchs or a dip switch.

QUOTE(matycon @ Aug 29 2007, 10:01 AM)

ok so from the pictures it looks as if there are 2 parallel lines. Am i connect in assuming the trace to cut and solder in everything in between those? Also, does this switch need to be soldered in using the 30 gauge Kynarwire? The pic doesnt look like the wire is all that thin at all.

Thanks in advance, i have never done the Vcc trick with the ms28 since i always used a via card so i have soldered anything on the circuit board as of yet.

Yes, the traces are the light green and the board is the dark green.  So, cut the trace entirely.  I create two pads on either side and test with a multimeter for continuity (you want it to be open) before soldering any wires.  30ga will work fine, its what i use.

Caster.

This post has been edited by caster420: Aug 29 2007, 10:06 PM

[KingovGames]

It's hard to believe the light green is the trace as almost the whole board is light green. I always thought the dark green lines were the traces.

[caster420]

QUOTE(KingovGames @ Aug 29 2007, 06:54 PM)

It's hard to believe the light green is the trace as almost the whole board is light green. I always thought the dark green lines were the traces.

Look at this image ( NOT THE CORRECT METHOD, PLEASE NOTE!!!! ).  They are light green...

Caster.

[darknezz23]

I'm not getting much success. DosFlash just says unknown chipset in the device list. my traces are cut and my switch works fine, I checked with an ohms meter. Anyone get this to work please post your results. By the way I'm using a via vt6421 sata chipset.

[nintendofreak420]

On average, how long does it take for a new Modified DVD firmware to be released.

[Acid90]

QUOTE(caster420 @ Aug 2007)

That being said, there is one major advantage to method 2 - you can install a single switch and be able to flash, then go back to normal operation for testing the firmware, then overwrite with a flash with new update, etc.. With method1, you would need multiple switchs or a dip switch.

I Dont understand why you say you need a dip switch or a multi switch for option 1  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

As surely both would work with just a on/off switch  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

What am i missing here  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)  please can you explain why u cant use a on/off switch with option 1  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

[thedove75]

am facing problem finding the freakin sata i have intel ich7 any help

[abrasmateus]

Ok, i know this may sound a little noob. Actually this is going to sound a lot noob.  But when u guys say about cutting the trace, do you guys really mean CUTTING it?i mean, picking a knife and cuting the metal light grey area shown before?
thanks a lot, and sorry for the dumb question

[caster420]

QUOTE(Acid90 @ Aug 30 2007, 02:48 PM)

I Dont understand why you say you need a dip switch or a multi switch for option 1 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)
As surely both would work with just a on/off switch (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)
What am i missing here (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) please can you explain why u cant use a on/off switch with option 1 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

Ok, you have two traces, trace #1 and trace #2.  Each trace has a left (L) and right ® side after it is cut.  For method one, trace #1 ® connects to trace #2 (L) and is otherwise left open.  So, to be able to switch back to normal mode, trace #1 L & R and trace #2 L & R need to be reconnected.  

So, you can use an off and on switch with option one.  However, to use your drive after reading and writing, you must repair the traces.  With method two, you do not need to do this.  It is a single trace which is cut, with one side of the switch going to the cut trace and the other to 3.3v.

abrasmateus - yes, you cut the trace.  I use a dental pic to scrape the pcb until the trace appears to be gone.  Then i use the pic to scrape the coating off the trace on either side to create solder pads.  Then i test for continuity between the pads to make sure that they are completely cut.  (see my photo above)

Caster.

This post has been edited by caster420: Aug 31 2007, 03:46 AM

[Acid90]

QUOTE(caster420 @ Aug 31 2007, 03:43 AM)

Ok, you have two traces, trace #1 and trace #2.  Each trace has a left (L) and right ® side after it is cut.  For method one, trace #1 ® connects to trace #2 (L) and is otherwise left open.  So, to be able to switch back to normal mode, trace #1 L & R and trace #2 L & R need to be reconnected.  

So, you can use an off and on switch with option one.  However, to use your drive after reading and writing, you must repair the traces.  With method two, you do not need to do this.  It is a single trace which is cut, with one side of the switch going to the cut trace and the other to 3.3v.

Caster.

Yes of course im such a dumbo    i didnt think now i undertstand why

So im off to buy a dip switch

thanks caster for having the time to explain this too me -  

[foaley77]

Can you use the Xecuter Connectivity Kit version 1 for this or do you have to use the xbox console to power on the drive?