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[thecheekymonkey]

After getting my own method down and seeing loads of people asking heres my method.

enjoy!

______________________________________________

removing the chip

Theres no easy way of doing this, its not as easy as people may make out, its a dodgy process and not for the faint hearted. i`m not gonna go into details, you`ll have to find your own method, all the stuff is out there for removing it, just be patient and try at least not to kill the chip.

once removed make sure that you use a fibreglass pen (or equivelant) to clean the pins (be careful) get all the shite off, and then clean the chip using whatever you want (i use meths to de-flux and clean)

make sure all pins are straight

you may have to remove and clean any epoxy from the sides of the chip as well, to get it into the programmer correctly.

its worth cleaning the underside of the chip and the pcb (where the chip has been seated) free of any glue residue, this will help the chip to sit more flush with the board when re-fitting. be careful cleaning the board.

always wipe the board and chip down with PCB cleaner to remove shite and any flux residue

dumping the firmware

using a willem, pop your chip into the programmer. Under the willem programmer select the device as

"39sf / 49sf020"

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/Deviceselect.jpg)

I didnt have to select any special settings on my programmer etc etc

on my willem the VF isnt supported, however after doing a few of these no with no problems, selecting this setting works, i get a good dump, and am able to retrieve the key.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/ID.jpg)

now select the "get chip ID" , the prgammer will then tell you what chip you have, make sure it comes up correctly, if it doesnt, remove chip and re-seat, repeat process till it shows you your chip ID.
once it shows your chip ID READ THE CHIP, THEN SAVE IT AS (EXAMPLE) "078ORIG.BIN"

do this a couple of times, and open the firmware up in firmware toolbox 2.0 and make sure it identifys the firmware revision correctly, if it doesnt you have a bad dump, re-read and open till you get it to show correctly

example :-


Sorting out the firmware

once you have a good dump (excuse the pun) open it in firmware toolbox 2.0

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/open_orig.jpg)

where it displays the key, copy it.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/copy_key.jpg)

Then open the "78_16.bin" file from 078 hacked firmware package (1.6) and copy the key into the key box.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/paste_key.jpg)

Hit "replace key" once done click ok.

Now press the "generate encrypted file" button, this should then encrypt the hacked firmware which contains your key, and leave a new file in your folder called "78_16-.bin"  this is the file which you will program to your chip.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/encrypted.jpg)

programming the chip

At this point you have a choice, either erase and re-write to the old chip, or program a new chip. It is advised to program it to a new chip, but if you aint got one, your old one will have to to. Please understand that if youve got any of this process wrong and you feck up, its your own responsibility.

I use the old chips, mainly because i have a few spare, but i never use the chip i have removed, i always keep this with the original firmware on it and use a spare VF chip (same as original)

On the willem programmer software make sure that the device selected is :-

"39sf / 49sf020"

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/Deviceselect.jpg)

Always check the chip ID making sure it detects your chip properly. (if it doesnt repeat till it does

Now erase the chip ( i do it a couple of times)

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/erasechip.jpg)

then do the "blank test".........let it run, make sure it verifys that the chip is empty.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/blanktest.jpg)

Open your "78_16-.bin" in the willem software (File>Open)

Hit the "programme chip" button.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/program.jpg)

this will then prog the chip (in red), and verify it after (in green).

make sure it completes successfully.

thats it, done.

Resoldering the chip

I use a Hotair-rework station to desolder etc etc, but i prefer to use a soldering iron to resolder, its personal preference.

make sure you reflux the pads on the PCB (always worth fluxing the pads on the chip after cleaning)

I get the chip lined up, and solder one leg on one side first. then the oposite leg on the other side. this will allow you to get the chip seated correctly before soldering all the pins back.

Make sure you get all pins done correctly.

Powering on!!
Press eject , if the green light flashs constantly and you get an error onscreen (e64/e65) this means a bad firmware / flash  etc etc/

Press the eject button and if green light flashs once only, then you havent got all pin soldered correctly, or theres track damage, either way something isnt connected right.
misc

after trying allsorts with my prgrammer, to read these chips etc etc (voltage changes / different device IDs etc etc) in the end the only way i could get this job done was to leave it on default settings, and use the
"39sf / 49sf020" device setting. This may not be the best way as the VF chips run on a different voltage than the SF chips, however this wsa the only way i could do this process, and its been successful!

Doing any of this, dont blame me if it dont work, or you fook your drive up, if you aint got money to burn, or your not confident in any of the process DONT ATTEMPT IT!

Ill neaten this up and add a few photos.

[thecheekymonkey]

HERE IS THE EDITED VERSION, I CANT DELETE OR EDIT THE ABOVE POST, MODS IF YOU WOULD BE SO KIND  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)


THIS IS THE CLEANED UP , EDITED VERSION.

After getting my own method down and seeing loads of people asking heres my method.

enjoy!

______________________________________________

Removing the chip

Theres no easy way of doing this, its not as easy as people may make out, its a dodgy process and not for the faint hearted. i`m not gonna go into details, you`ll have to find your own method, all the stuff is out there for removing it, just be patient and try at least not to kill the chip.

Once removed make sure that you use a fibreglass pen (or equivelant) to clean the pins (be careful) get all the shite off, and then clean the chip using whatever you want (i use meths to de-flux and clean)

Make sure all pins are straight and any excess solder has been removed, and there are no bridged pins.

You may have to remove and clean any epoxy from the sides of the chip as well, to get it into the programmer correctly.

Its worth cleaning the underside of the chip and the pcb (where the chip has been seated) free of any glue residue, this will help the chip to sit more flush with the board when re-fitting. I use my firbreglass pen, but be careful cleaning the board.

Always wipe the board and chip down with PCB cleaner to remove shite and any flux residue.

Dumping the firmware

using a willem, pop your chip into the programmer.

On the software goto "Device select" and choose "Flash 29/39/49Fxxx > 39/49Fxxx > 39SF/49FO20"

You should have :-

"39sf / 49f020"

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/Deviceselect.jpg)

I didnt have to select any special settings on my programmer etc etc

It seems the VF isnt supported on the willem (or at least on mine) , however after doing a few of these no with no problems, selecting this setting works, i get a good dump (heh heh) , and am able to retrieve the key with no problems.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/ID.jpg)

Now press the "Electronic ID" button a pop-up should appear giving you the Chips detail i.e. manufacturer -  chip type - serial etc etc ,  make sure it displays this correctly, if it doesnt, remove chip and re-seat, repeat process till it shows you your chip ID.
once it shows your chip ID READ THE CHIP, THEN SAVE IT AS (EXAMPLE) "078ORIG.BIN"

Do this a couple of times, and open the firmware up in firmware toolbox 2.0 and make sure it identifys the firmware revision correctly, if it doesnt you have a bad dump, re-read and open till you get it to show correctly

Sorting out the firmware

Once you have a good dump (excuse the pun) open it in firmware toolbox 2.0

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/open_orig.jpg)

Where it displays the key, copy it.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/copy_key.jpg)

Then open the "78_16.bin" file from 078 hacked firmware package (1.6) and copy the key into the key box.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/paste_key.jpg)

Hit "replace key" once done click ok.

Now press the "generate encrypted file" button, this should then encrypt the hacked firmware which contains your key, and leave a new file in your folder called "78_16-.bin"  this is the file which you will program to your chip.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/encrypted.jpg)

programming the chip

At this point you have a choice, either erase and re-write to the old chip, or program a new chip. It is advised to program it to a new chip, but if you aint got one, your old one will have to do. Please understand that if youve got any of this process wrong and you feck up, its your own responsibility.

I use the old chips, mainly because i have a few spare, but i never use the chip i have removed, i always keep this with the original firmware on it and use a spare VF chip (same as original)

On the willem programmer software make sure that the device selected is :-

"39sf / 49sf020"

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/Deviceselect.jpg)

Always check the chip ID making sure it detects your chip properly. (if it doesnt repeat till it does

Now erase the chip ( i do it a couple of times)

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/erasechip.jpg)

Then do the "blank test".........let it run, make sure it verifys that the chip is empty.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/blanktest.jpg)

Open your "78_16-e.bin" in the willem software (File>Open)

Hit the "Programme Chip" button.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/thecheekymonkey/xbox360/078FK%20tutorial/program.jpg)

This will then prog the chip (in red), and verify it after (in green). It may take a few moments for this

Make sure it completes successfully.

Thats it, done.

Resoldering the chip

I use a Hotair-rework station to desolder etc etc, but i prefer to use a soldering iron to resolder, its personal preference.

Make sure you reflux the pads on the PCB (always worth fluxing the pads on the chip after cleaning)

Get the chip lined up.
Solder top right hand leg.
Line chip up again.
Solder bottom left hand leg.
Then solder the rest of the legs on either side.

This will allow you to get the chip seated correctly before soldering all the pins back.

Make sure you get all pins done correctly. It will not work at all without all pins soldered.

Errors!

Press eject , if the green light flashs constantly and you get an error onscreen (e64/e65) this means a bad firmware / flash  etc etc/

Press the eject button and if green light flashs once only, then you havent got all pin soldered correctly, or theres track damage, either way something isnt connected right.

misc

After trying all sorts with my prgrammer to read these chips etc etc (voltage changes / different device IDs etc etc) in the end the only way i could get this job done was to leave it on default settings, and use the
"39sf / 49sf020" device setting. This may not be the best way as the VF chips run on a different voltage than the SF chips, however this was the only way i could do this process, and its been successful! (on a number of occasions now  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)  )

Doing any of this, dont blame me if it dont work, or you fook your drive up, if you aint got money to burn, or your not confident in any of the process DONT ATTEMPT IT!

If anything is incorrect or  wrong, please feel free to slag me off


TheCheekyMonkey

www.ConsoleWorkshop.Co.Uk

This post has been edited by thecheekymonkey: Dec 5 2006, 10:09 AM

[dynt]

i have huge respect for the people who have gone this route however i think  the huge risks involved removing heating and soldering the TSOP on the PCB using a modchip has to be the way to go furthermore its possible to remove a mod chip and leave it looking some what original thus giving you a 50/50 chance of a warranty claim, if you heat the thing up with a heat gun there is no way to hide this.

[thecheekymonkey]

QUOTE(dynt @ Dec 5 2006, 12:57 PM)

i have huge respect for the people who have gone this route however i think  the huge risks involved removing heating and soldering the TSOP on the PCB using a modchip has to be the way to go furthermore its possible to remove a mod chip and leave it looking some what original thus giving you a 50/50 chance of a warranty claim, if you heat the thing up with a heat gun there is no way to hide this.

agreed............. but the mods that support these drives might be a while in coming.   heating the chip is risky, if you do it right though, with the right equipment everything should be fine  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[MicroShack]

A point to add ...

When you have lifted the chip of the board give the PCB 5-10 mins to cool down or when you clean up after the pads may come off.

The pcbs are crap so its very easy to lift tracks...


Well done CheekyMonkey (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[thecheekymonkey]

QUOTE(MicroShack @ Dec 5 2006, 01:12 PM)

A point to add ...

When you have lifted the chip of the board give the PCB 5-10 mins to cool down or when you clean up after the pads may come off.

The pcbs are crap so its very easy to lift tracks...
Well done CheekyMonkey (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

yep, it is very easy to lift tracks.


out of interest just had a shitty e-mail from someone, just to explain to the kiddies out there, i havent done this for kudos, its to save me the pissing around of answering 20+ e-mails a day from people to explain my methods. people like this make me wanna not bother!.

just thought i`d share my method thats all  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)  

[dynt]

QUOTE(thecheekymonkey @ Dec 5 2006, 01:06 PM)

agreed............. but the mods that support these drives might be a while in coming.   heating the chip is risky, if you do it right though, with the right equipment everything should be fine  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

The nme chip is out v1.2 and if i had the skills to do it your way i would plus you save 40 dollars, and whoever sent you the shit e-mail is a tosser there is work time and effort to put some thing together to explain to people the methods that have worked for you,

 i appreciate it massively keep up the good work

[SNAAAKE]

AWSOME !  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

couple of the pictures of the pcb itself and the points where you desoldered it would be great. maybe put a nickel on the picture too so we know what kind of soldering job is involved.

This post has been edited by SNAAAKE: Dec 5 2006, 12:48 PM

[ben1989]

Tut In PDF

Mirror Of the tut in pdf


pdf version (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

and a big thanks

This post has been edited by ben1989: Dec 5 2006, 08:00 PM

[ExiledTaru]

QUOTE(SNAAAKE @ Dec 5 2006, 01:02 PM)

maybe put a nickel on the picture too so we know what kind of soldering job is involved.

post a few over to the UK then ^^,

Grats on the information, uber useful, even to someone who wouldnt dare remove the chip myself, always find it useful to actually know the process behind it, hopfully there will be a software option for this before too long, if not ill be giving you a call when i have some spare cash n feeling lucky  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)  (god that sounds SO wrong)

[Perplexer]

Even though you aren't looking for kudos, you're getting em from me.  Nice work!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Textbook]

I was contemplating purchasing a programmer.  The costs have pushed me away from it.  I would have to buy a programmer, and an adapter.  That alone is $110.  That's a good chunk of money for me.  Enough so that I will wait for modchips / software solution.  Nevertheless, I really do appreciate the tutorial.  Taking the time to write this stuff isn't fun.  And I mean that.  I've written tutorials before, they take a long time to do, people are never satisfied with them, and there's little to no payoff for writing one.  So, please accept my  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)  and my  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pop.gif)  and thanks.

Also, to the person requesting a picture next to a nickel, he posted this picture on the XBH thread, next to a two pence.

PICTURE

[ExiledTaru]

bloody hell that chip is small ><

[physcho jack]

With regard to your chip selection cheekymonkey. You must be setting you VCC to 3.3V and is probably a useful addition to your tutorial , else you may find a few people will end up smoking there chip.

I personally do not use 39SF020 as the device selected, I use 29LF020 with VCC set to 3.3V of course. The reason for this is that if you look at the chip compatibility chart posted by EZO on the willem site, the device selection is stated as 29LF020 for a 39LF020 device.

Anyway it works for you, and thats what counts.

[MicroShack]

With regards to the chip voltage it works fine for me but if you want to make sure you dont want to kill the chip just pop a couple of diodes in series between 32 of the adapter and zif (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)