Topic: Samsung Drive Keeps Ejecting With 42a (Read 129 times)

lord^infamous · « **on:** October 26, 2006, 01:10:00 AM »

I have the same problem and it isn't firmware releated for my problem. I've read and been told that Samsungs have this problem a lot. The tray assembly is to blame. From what I can tell, the tray doesn't close hard enough because of poor design. For my drive, I have to slam it shut in order for it to acknowledge it's closed. I haven't had the time to tinker with mine yet but i've been told to try a smaller rubber band on the drives closing pully and to also try some plastic lubricant on the closing tracks.

Textbook · « **Reply #1 on:** October 26, 2006, 09:20:00 AM »

Set your system vertical and try opening the tray. My bet is it won't open. It will try and get stuck. lord^infamous is right (I talked to him the other day)

This is a common problem among Xbox 1 Samsung drives as well. It is in fact a mechanical problem with the motor or motor belt. The motor that controls the tray opening/closing is the same motor that lowers the laser assembly. When this speed gets slower for some reason or because the rubber band stretches out, we run into two problems.

1. Tray getting stuck while ejecting. This motor lowers the laser assembly. When it cannot lower it fast enough, the tray is trying to eject while the assembly is still "up." The laser assembly is still stuck to the drive lid's magnet that holds the discs in place. That's why if your tray is getting stuck, if you get it a good whack on the lid of the drive, it opens. You "unstuck" the magnet, making the laser assembly move down, which then let your tray continue opening. If you don't believe me, take off your lid and you'll never get the tray getting stuck.

2. The other problem is what you stated, the drive refusing to stay closed. You try to close the drive and the motor doesn't close it hard enough. When this happens, the tray pops back out. I was having the same problem and can be seen on a video tutorial I made where I close the tray and it pops back out and I mutter "my stupid drive."

My drive was having both problems. My friend's drive is only having the first, where his drive gets stuck while opening. You seem to be only having problem 2. Thing is, they are related and when it gets worse, both problems will show up. Here is how I fixed both of my problems.

IPB Image

By using the rubber band instead of the belt motor, my drive has yet to get stuck once and has yet to close one time. Before this, I had a 0% eject rate while the console was vertical and at times I had to eject the tray in 9 times before it would stay closed. Now, I can open the tray every time, even in vertical. And I haven't had it refuse to close once. Just give it a try, might work for you. It did for me.

stowelly · « **Reply #2 on:** October 27, 2006, 01:57:00 AM »

ok i changed the band, and it still does the same thing, im begining to think i might have shorted something, as i did this with the conectivity kit instead of using the 360 to power it, ive modded like 20 boxes and this is the first time i used the kit to do it

anyone in the uk think they can repair this? or at least point me in the right direction, thanks

stowelly · « **Reply #3 on:** October 27, 2006, 04:39:00 AM »

see it doesnt seem like its just not closing properly, it seems like its in some kind of "mode b". even if i got the drive to close by unplugging the 360 when the drives closed then turn it back on it stays shut, but as soon as i press power off it shuts down completely, then ejects the drive

stowelly · « **Reply #4 on:** October 27, 2006, 06:29:00 AM »

ok ive managed to get the drive to accept a disk 1 out of 20 times, but im not too sure if my 0800 disk is working, i used the media i use for all my gamed d/l verbatim, used the pioneer 111d to write it, the drive seems to pick it up and read for a few seconds, not sure if its supposed to sound like a game spinning up or not? as it didnt, but still no write enable on my flash, is there any other way of getting 0800 mode?

stowelly · « **Reply #5 on:** October 28, 2006, 12:21:00 AM »

anyone?

majik655 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 28, 2006, 01:14:00 AM »

QUOTE(stowelly @ Oct 27 2006, 11:28 PM)

anyone?

well since you tried the rubber band thing.. (maybe a different band size again???) but if you are sure that did not work.. maybe try this thing... even though I think you are right.. it is stuck in a mode of some sort.

here is the link (click on the picture for bigger pictures... kinda bad quality though)
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=550832

Also.. you state you got it going like 1 out of 20... you should have an original disk laying around.

TRY to get that disk in the drive some how...you want it to read it.. but thats gonna be the problem..but there was some threads way back that said something to the effect of sticking in a original game to get it out of mode b. type of thing...so this is what I did one time.. with something that kinda seems like your issue too.

Its like the drive is backwards somehow huh? so try to trick it back.. like manually opening the drive then shutting off power.. see what happens.. more than likely it just sits open..but put in an original game.. and then turn on.. maybe it closes?

maybe at some point stop it from going in automatically... see what happens then when you shut it manually again from there??

my point is.. try all ways to trick it back.. different things etc etc.. just to see what happens.

stowelly · « **Reply #7 on:** October 29, 2006, 01:17:00 AM »

ntloser · « **Reply #8 on:** October 29, 2006, 01:26:00 AM »

stowelly,

If the drive is not physically damaged from the Xecuter trash.. maybe using the bad flash recovery method will help;

The firmgaurd in the 4.x firmware is the same "protection" used in the ms 28 firmware. Hence, you can flash a drive with 4.x firmware withOUT it being in 0800 mode using the bad flash recovery method. This may be the thing to try since you can't be sure you are getting the drive into 0800 mode. Hopefully, once you get your original firmware back on, the drive will behave normal and you can try to reflash.
Only use the xecuter trash on hatachi drives.

Good luck

stowelly · « **Reply #9 on:** October 29, 2006, 01:48:00 AM »

excellent will give that a try, to make it worse i just ordered a replacement hitachi, only to read afterwards its the 32CE and i wont be able to flash it through software

ntloser · « **Reply #10 on:** October 29, 2006, 01:54:00 AM »

Yeah, that 32 c.. I think the chip needs to be removed from it.. it seemed very involved.... if all else fails.. just do the "swappy swap."

mr-smith · « **Reply #11 on:** October 29, 2006, 05:04:00 PM »

your sata chipset is VIA based isn't it? Otherwise the bad flash recovery method won't work.

stowelly · « **Reply #12 on:** October 29, 2006, 11:46:00 PM »

nah im using nforce

ntloser · « **Reply #13 on:** October 30, 2006, 01:07:00 AM »

QUOTE(stowelly @ Oct 30 2006, 02:53 AM)

nah im using nforce

You need to use a SATA card or onboard SATA controller, with a VIA chipset in order to do a bad flash recovery with an MS 28 / xtreme 4.x based T-S drive.

What concerns me is that the drive isn't detected at all. I think it should at least be detected on the nforce based sata controller. Either way the VIA card you need is 9 - 15 dollars and would definitely be worth your while. If you do successfully get your drive flashed and want to flash it again again without 0800 mode. You need that card. Or, say you do the swappy swap and get a system with an MS 28 based drive you can flash that without having to solder.

stowelly · « **Reply #14 on:** October 30, 2006, 01:14:00 AM »

QUOTE(ntloser @ Oct 30 2006, 08:14 AM)

You need to use a SATA card or onboard SATA controller, with a VIA chipset in order to do a bad flash recovery with an MS 28 / xtreme 4.x based T-S drive.

What concerns me is that the drive isn't detected at all. I think it should at least be detected on the nforce based sata controller. Either way the VIA card you need is 9 - 15 dollars and would definitely be worth your while. If you do successfully get your drive flashed and want to flash it again again without 0800 mode. You need that card. Or, say you do the swappy swap and get a system with an MS 28 based drive you can flash that without having to solder.

i get 2 different error code when i esc out of mtkflash 00 for when its not powered on and i think its 51 (cant remember exactly) when expecting 70, so its obviously there it just gets a different status code.

whats the reason the nforce wont work for the bad flash recovery?

Author Topic: Samsung Drive Keeps Ejecting With 42a (Read 129 times)