Topic: Xbox 360 Dvd Pot Calibration Tut V1.0 By Moda (Read 1798 times)

Xcitedguy · « **Reply #60 on:** July 01, 2006, 12:09:00 PM »

QUOTE(panosvo @ Jul 1 2006, 12:41 PM)

Anyone tried pot tweak on Hitachi?

Yeah I have, but it didn't do me any good because my pot was already set at 3.4k, all drives start out at different pots, only way to tell is to check. If your pot is around 4.0, then definitly tone it down between 3.0-3.4 for best results.

Mine's at 3.2

But do not go below 2.8 and then try and play a backup, it may burn out your laser if you leave it that low...

This post has been edited by Xcitedguy: Jul 1 2006, 07:10 PM

zanxx · « **Reply #61 on:** July 01, 2006, 09:22:00 PM »

QUOTE(panosvo @ Jul 1 2006, 05:41 PM)

Anyone tried pot tweak on Hitachi?

Just finished doing it on my 46d Hitachi. Finally got discs to boot (had to buy a Pioneer, Sony/Lite-On burners don't work), but had to use reset tricks most of the time.

Adjusted my DVD POT from 3.391 to 3.005 (used a Fluke MM). Now all my Verbatims boot from cold or from the menu, and about 50% of my Riteks will boot without a reset.

It does help, just be careful and use a quality digital MM.

JohnnyVegas · « **Reply #62 on:** July 01, 2006, 09:54:00 PM »

QUOTE(zanxx @ Jul 1 2006, 10:29 PM)

(had to buy a Pioneer, Sony/Lite-On burners don't work),

My liteon works great. No trouble with my hit 46d. Soft reset. Interesting how this keeps playing out.

altair4 · « **Reply #63 on:** July 04, 2006, 09:41:00 AM »

Trying this out on my Hitachi 47DH. Original setting is 3.92. Nothing boots directly then, but everything with AV-switch trick. First I tried lowering it to 3.4, but that didnt help anything. Then I tried 2.95 and got one backup to boot directly, but others wouldnt and even the one that booted could fail.

What I wonder is if it always that lower equals better. Will 2.8 automatically be better then 3.0 cause the laser is stronger or could other factors depend aswell? Since the guide mentions to not set it lower then 2.8, is 2.8 quite safe to use then or could it be dangerously low aswell?

Uncool · « **Reply #64 on:** July 06, 2006, 04:19:00 AM »

I'm using a Lite-on and Verbatim 2,4
Works great (but with softboot, not from menu).
I think I'll give the pot-tweaking a try. I have a Hitachi btw.

6h05T_R1d3R · « **Reply #65 on:** July 07, 2006, 07:09:00 AM »

what about a non-modded samsung drive that is giving the "open tray" error is this the way to go?

jcarl987 · « **Reply #66 on:** July 07, 2006, 11:22:00 AM »

I had open tray error with my samsung with pretty much every game I burned, and after trying various media and two different burners, I reduced the pot from 3.6 to 2.9 and now eveything boots first time.

Also, if anyone, like me, takes their DVD drive apart only to realise that they don't have a screwdriver big enough, putting pressure on the screw with my finger nail did the trick. The adjustment needed is really miniscule.

This post has been edited by jcarl987: Jul 7 2006, 06:23 PM

falconsfan · « **Reply #67 on:** July 08, 2006, 02:32:00 AM »

So I just did my hitachi drive... the original pot measured 3.42 Ohms ... plays memorex brand fine using soft reboot. BUT I recently bought a VGA cable that doesn't allow me to do the soft reboot sooooo I needed to try and get my system to boot the discs on its own.... After dropping it down alittle at a time I eventually got it down to. 2.81 and STILL no joy... SO I opened the drive up again and put it back to 3.4 and figured out another way to soft boot the system WITHOUT the original HD switch.... The HDD... IF you pop out the hdd and put it back in, it will soft boot the system and atleast MY games booted right up.. Hope this helps someone ...

DaMyth · « **Reply #68 on:** July 10, 2006, 03:41:00 PM »

Recently just did my samsung, Originally at 4 ohms, I put it at 3 ohms. I've been using HP DL's, and so far so good. I haven't got anymore "open trays". Thanks for the tut, it was very helpful. Hope everyone else has the luck I did.

zanxx · « **Reply #69 on:** July 16, 2006, 07:42:00 AM »

F**********! Well, I seemed to have bricked a drive... after POT'ing my Hitachi 46, it worked great, booted from cold-starts, etc.

So I tried doing the same to my friends Hitachi 47, took it from 3.38 to 3.01. Popped it in... and nothing. Ejects, the 360 can see drive and so can Windows. But it never spins up. I can see the laser pop-in for a half-second, but the disc just never rotates.

I can flash it, etc. I've checked every single trace, ribbon cable, etc. and can't find anything. Doesn't read Cd's either. So it probably isn't the laser?

Anyone experience this? Suggestions appreciated...

Sleep1234 · « **Reply #70 on:** July 17, 2006, 05:24:00 PM »

i just did it and i changed from 4.3 to 3.8 and everything is ok now... no more open tray..... thanks Moda for your help.....

i have a TS driver, Lg burner and ritek midia......

now im very happy

foxdzine · « **Reply #71 on:** July 19, 2006, 10:57:00 AM »

great tut moda but im afraid i killed my laser bit too much tweaking just got me a fresh laser for my sammy and need some help with the solder bridge i have to remove cant find anything on the subject in the usuall places obviousley its that simple only i dont know nice if anyone could help dont want to kill this one nice one guys keep up the good work..........................

C-5 · « **Reply #72 on:** July 20, 2006, 03:51:00 PM »

QUOTE

so STAY AWAY from LITEON burners! you will just burn coasters.

FWIW, I have successfully burned plenty of backups on Fujifilm media using Lite-On SHW-160P65, which can be purchased from Wal-Mart for $49.99 in the US... Speech lagged in Oblivion, until I adjusted the POT on my TS drive from 3.3 to 3.1. The only remaining issues that I have is studdering cinemas in LOTR BFME2 and N4S:MW. I might try lowering the POT to 3.0 this weekend, to attempt to smooth out those two games.

BTW, Thanks for the tutorial.

Runkster · « **Reply #73 on:** August 03, 2006, 09:21:00 PM »

QUOTE(zanxx @ Jul 16 2006, 02:57 PM)

F**********! Well, I seemed to have bricked a drive... after POT'ing my Hitachi 46, it worked great, booted from cold-starts, etc.

So I tried doing the same to my friends Hitachi 47, took it from 3.38 to 3.01. Popped it in... and nothing. Ejects, the 360 can see drive and so can Windows. But it never spins up. I can see the laser pop-in for a half-second, but the disc just never rotates.

I can flash it, etc. I've checked every single trace, ribbon cable, etc. and can't find anything. Doesn't read Cd's either. So it probably isn't the laser?

Anyone experience this? Suggestions appreciated...

I had a similar problem when one of the traces lifted off of the ribbon cable that connects the laser to the PCB. Replaced cable and the problem went away. Check your cable, it may just be loose

mrjkwik · « **Reply #74 on:** August 26, 2006, 09:46:00 PM »

solved my open tray problem like a charm. 1 question though that i'd appreciate an answer to:

mine started at 3.92-4. it bounced around a bit, but once i got a steady hand on it it was more like the 3.92. well, i over adjusted it to 3.01. i figured i'd see if it made a difference and it did. everything worked much better. but feeling like going from 3.92 to 3.01 was a big jump, and i didnt want to risk my drive, i went out and bought some more appropriate screwdrivers to adjust. so i adjusted it up to 3.6. everything still works. should i leave it there, or bump it up a little more. i figure the closer to the 3.92 the better, but if 3.6 is safe, i'd prefer not to take it apart again.

thanks for any advice.

Author Topic: Xbox 360 Dvd Pot Calibration Tut V1.0 By Moda (Read 1798 times)