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[DjLiquidSinner]

Ok, so I got it installed but everytime I go to play an original the dvd drive just idles after trying to read the game for 20 seconds then says "open tray".  I've resoldered all the points time and time again to the point where the pads lifted and I had to resort to soldering it to the threads coming off the chip hidden under the epoxy (see picture).  I never used any of the optional hookups, nor did I use the mainboard optional usb jump.  Can you see any errors in this picture?  I will include a larger one and a better one of the board when I get home from work.  In the mean time, can you see any errors in this?

I have it all hooked up properly on the chip side, I have the power, ground, and the "M" soldered as well.

(IMG:http://i25.tinypic.com/2q0oac4.jpg)

[DjLiquidSinner]

hmmmmmmm... Ok, I got it all installed correctly and put in an original and it worked.  While burning an backup of the original I decided to play another game.  Well, I made some food came back and the game froze.  I rebooted the system and I got an "unplayable disc" error.  After another reboot I got a system error 64.  Thinking that since I did a temp solder to make sure it was hooked up correctly I ran through all the wires and found that a wire had come a little lose.  I found the problem and fixed it.  Ive been using a test light to make sure there are no bridges between any wires or any part of the board that there shouldnt be and now im completely lost.  Everything is now hooked up 100% and It won't play originals or backups.

Recap:
-  Installed NME2
-  Drive wouldn't spin discs
-  Resoldered wires
-  Played originals for 10 minutes then froze
-  Now gives Unplayable Disc

HELP!

[ClearXXX]

that picture does not look pretty.  try using smaller gauge wires.  from the pic of your soldering job, it looks like solder may have bridged with other points on the board.  clean with isoprophyl alcohol and cotton ball or swab.  desoldered with desoldering braid.  clean again with alcohol.  spread liquid flux over the area and resoldered the points again.

[DjLiquidSinner]

QUOTE(ClearXXX @ May 1 2008, 08:23 AM)

that picture does not look pretty.  try using smaller gauge wires.  from the pic of your soldering job, it looks like solder may have bridged with other points on the board.  clean with isoprophyl alcohol and cotton ball or swab.  desoldered with desoldering braid.  clean again with alcohol.  spread liquid flux over the area and resoldered the points again.

Yeah, I have to admit, that was a terrible install.  The iron I used was a butane one that never got hot enough so the wires would stick and then fall right off again.  As of now, everything is working beautifully and the wires look like they were apart of the board itself   .  The only issue im having now is burning backups.  Ive got more researching to do but from what I've read Im doing things correctly.  Ive got an old Hitachi 20L (the first xbox360's that were released) and a friend backed up my guitar hero game as an iso (since he's done this stuff before), injected the SSbin but inside the program he's using, the files are showing that the "Required SS" is red and incorrect.  Im assuming for these types of questions I may be in the wrong section or I may have to start asking new people.  Can someone shed some light on this?  I keep getting Please insert this disc into a 360 system.  Could this be a DVD media issue as well?  Im using TDK 25-Pack Double Layer 8.5GB DVD+R.

[Heliopolis]

QUOTE(DjLiquidSinner @ May 2 2008, 05:31 AM)

... a friend backed up my guitar hero game as an iso (since he's done this stuff before), injected the SSbin but inside the program he's using, the files are showing that the "Required SS" is red and incorrect.  ...

Sounds like he used XBox SS Merger. This is a great program - don't be concerned if the colour is red. As long as the MD5s match you are fine.

[DjLiquidSinner]

QUOTE(Heliopolis @ May 2 2008, 01:08 AM)

Sounds like he used XBox SS Merger. This is a great program - don't be concerned if the colour is red. As long as the MD5s match you are fine.

Could the reason why im getting the error "please insert this disc into an xbox 360" then because its a bad media?  Good burn bad media?

[Elite_Mods]

QUOTE(DjLiquidSinner @ May 2 2008, 11:25 AM)

Could the reason why im getting the error "please insert this disc into an xbox 360" then because its a bad media?  Good burn bad media?

Ive done many chip installs in sydney and have never had a prob with the NME 1.2 onwards chips, especially with the hitachi they work perfect. Are you patching with the NME associator patch on the iso before burning it. Also I find only verbatim dvd +rDL disk work well. Also have you adjusted the pot on the laser as this sometimes helps. Dont attempt though unless you have a multimeter.

[DjLiquidSinner]

QUOTE(Elite_Mods @ May 2 2008, 01:30 PM)

Ive done many chip installs in sydney and have never had a prob with the NME 1.2 onwards chips, especially with the hitachi they work perfect. Are you patching with the NME associator patch on the iso before burning it. Also I find only verbatim dvd +rDL disk work well. Also have you adjusted the pot on the laser as this sometimes helps. Dont attempt though unless you have a multimeter.

I haven't tried adjusting the POT on the laser.  What exactly does this do?  Does it make it easier to read the DVD's?

I guess this thread is quickly turning into a "How To" from beginning to end for noobs with NME chips =), lol.

Again guys, I really appreciate the help.

[Elite_Mods]

QUOTE(DjLiquidSinner @ May 3 2008, 04:25 AM)

I haven't tried adjusting the POT on the laser.  What exactly does this do?  Does it make it easier to read the DVD's?

I guess this thread is quickly turning into a "How To" from beginning to end for noobs with NME chips =), lol.

Again guys, I really appreciate the help.

adjusting the pot increases the lasers sensitivity, on the hitachi drives they are uusally set quite high, about 4.5k Ohm and they need to be brought down, I usually aim for about 3.1K ohm. Instructions should be on the NME sight, or just google it. Its set like this to make it more difficult to read burnt disks if their quality is questionable.

[letsmod]

#1 Do not use the GND point in the diagram, move GND to the point on the PCB marked TP-805

#2 Do not run the wires on top of the SST, they get pinched when you screw the metal shield back on.

#3 adjust laser to 3.2k Ohms if the abive does not work

#4 remove J1 solder bridge on mod as this sometimes helps

#5 are you using my guide to properly do a NME backup??

[DjLiquidSinner]

QUOTE(letsmod @ May 5 2008, 06:19 PM)

#1 Do not use the GND point in the diagram, move GND to the point on the PCB marked TP-805

#2 Do not run the wires on top of the SST, they get pinched when you screw the metal shield back on.

#3 adjust laser to 3.2k Ohms if the abive does not work

#4 remove J1 solder bridge on mod as this sometimes helps

#5 are you using my guide to properly do a NME backup??

Yeah, I've done all this.  Could it be the burner im using?  Im using the samsung to back them up but burning them on my LG GSA-4163B.  I heard the NME is picky

[DjLiquidSinner]

I cant seem to find the edit button so I'll just add a post.  I adjusted the POT from 3.6 from which it was originally set down to 3.4, then to 3.2, and again to 3.0 which is where it is set now.  None worked so Im not going lower then where I'm at now.  Like I said, all the originals work fine with the chip in but I can't get my backups to work.  They will verify 100% in all programs but I have a feeling it's just the way they are being burnt.  Im using Verbatim media, and yes I checked for the "Made in Singapore" label.  Ive done all my homework  

[letsmod]

Did you follow my tutorial to make the backups??

If you did and it is not working the either your burner is not compatible or bad mod.

I have had 100% good burns on the Lite-On LH-20A1P burner $23 at computegate.com

[DjLiquidSinner]

QUOTE(letsmod @ May 7 2008, 05:34 PM)

Did you follow my tutorial to make the backups??

If you did and it is not working the either your burner is not compatible or bad mod.

I have had 100% good burns on the Lite-On LH-20A1P burner $23 at computegate.com

Im starting to run out of ideas.  Is there any way to check if the chip itself is dead or not working?  Im about to go to the store I bought my chip from and try my backup there because i've got nowhere else to go now.  Ive done alot of searching and my burner is NME compatible so that shouldn't be a problem.  Here are the steps again when I turn on the 360.

1. open the dvd drive and insert dvd backup, close drive and then turn off the 360.
2. hold down the "on" button for 5 seconds until the dvd drive boots up.
3. the power on light turns off sensing there is a backup in the dvd-rom, but then the light turns back on after a few seconds.
4. the dvd-rom makes clicking noises, repeats the clicking noises 3 times then I get "unrecognized disc"

Cliff notes:
- Ive followed letsmod's NME_Maker.doc, and a few other tutorials to no avail.
- Ive resoldered the chip twice now, also making sure the ground is on the t805
- I do not have the network option wires hooked up
- Originals work fine everytime
- DVD POT is set to 2.8 (was 3.6)
- Used a multimeter to check for other grounds or any bridging anywhere there shouldn't be.

Im thinking that although this is the first time I've done this, it's possibly a dead chip or something of the sort.  Ive eliminated every possibility in my books unless there's anyone out there that can think of something else.

[DjLiquidSinner]

/end thread

got a new dvd burner.  used the nme_maker.doc and it worked.