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[iamcanadian2222]

QUOTE(Terriff @ Jun 12 2007, 12:17 PM)

You simply need to scratch away the coating to those points. The ground point can be anywhere along the continuous ground plane (but stick to the spot that modarea showed for consistency). Use the same process for the +5V point. Simply scratch away the coating anywhere within the rectangle area shown in the pics.

You know you've gone far enough when you see the copper trace and the solder sticks. There is a clear(ish) layer close to the copper that may deceive you into thinking you've reached the metal. Scratch through until the solder adheres to the copper.

Are you suggesting that I don't actually solder the wire to a specific contact point on the PCB, but instead simply scrape away the top (green) layer of the PCB in that general area and solder directly to the area of the PCB board I've scraped away?

I guess I just don't understand why the wire isn't connected directly to a contact point.  For discussion purposes, the area where Mod-Area has the +5V going to on the DVD PCB is a rectangular area "enclosed" by 6 contact points.  Why not connect the wire directly to one of those contact points?

The same would hold true for the GND.  Why not connect it to one of the contact points along the ground plane?

PS. Thanks for the replies.

[Terriff]

QUOTE(iamcanadian2222 @ Jun 12 2007, 08:21 PM)

Are you suggesting that I don't actually solder the wire to a specific contact point on the PCB, but instead simply scrape away the top (green) layer of the PCB in that general area and solder directly to the area of the PCB board I've scraped away?

Yes

QUOTE(iamcanadian2222 @ Jun 12 2007, 08:21 PM)

I guess I just don't understand why the wire isn't connected directly to a contact point.  For discussion purposes, the area where Mod-Area has the +5V going to on the DVD PCB is a rectangular area "enclosed" by 6 contact points.  Why not connect the wire directly to one of those contact points?

Feel free...as long as you've checked the voltage with a multimeter. Dual-sided circuit boards have pass-through points to connect one side to the other. These points that you mention may not have the electrical characteristics that you think they have (if they are coming from the other side). The ground plane and +5V plane that modarea shows in the picture are valid voltages.

I haven't personally measured the other points.

This post has been edited by Terriff: Jun 14 2007, 01:38 AM

[iamcanadian2222]

I got the chip installed and checked all the points with a mulitmeter and verified continuity from each point.  I checked various points nearby to make sure I didn't bridge any of the points as well. I used the +5V and ground points as indicated in Mod-Area's post and tweaked the laser to about 2.95.

I've tried burning onto 3 different types of DVD+R DL media using my NEC 3540A (w/ latest firmware: 1.04). I have yet to get a backup to play correctly and I don't know my next plan of action.  As far as I understand, the DVD burner I'm using should be fine.  Can anyone else confirm their Burner / Media combination on a 79fk w/ NME 1.2?

Summary:
Model: 360 Elite
Drive: 79fk
Chip: NME 1.2
Burner: NEC 3540A

Media: GQ 2.4x - Fry's Brand ("Great Quality")
Media: Memorex 2.4x
Media: Verbatim 2.4x

Laser: 2.95k ohm

This post has been edited by iamcanadian2222: Jun 16 2007, 03:02 AM

[iamcanadian2222]

I forgot to mention that when inserting backups you can hear the laser moving and clicking then it just boots to the dashboard and says "Unplayable Disc" in the DVD bar at the bottom.

[iamcanadian2222]

After trying all sorts of combinations to get backups working on my 360 Elite, I ended up buying an LG DVD burner per Mod-Area's suggestion.  I picked up an LG 20x Internal Super Multi DVD burner from Best Buy for
$89 and used Verbatim DL DVDs (Microcenter 20 pk for $27) and my backups worked immediately.  

I thought it was a little rediculous that I was paying $90 for a dual-layer burner today when I bought a dual layer burner for under 40 bucks a few years back, but it got my backups working and that's all that matters to me right now. I really have no use for the extra features the drive includes, but after a week of trying to get the mod working I was REALLY happy that I got it up an going.

For anyone that is having problems with their backups on a HL 0079fk, I would recommend using an LG DVD burner and Verbatim DL DVD discs.

In specific, the model burner I used is a GSA-H55LI.

Also confirmed is the following Burner / Firmware combo:

LG GSA-H10N

JL10 as firmware

This post has been edited by iamcanadian2222: Jun 17 2007, 07:05 AM

[hacker13]

Has anyone had any success with the nme and 79FL? I get the insert this disc into a 360 message
backups worked flawlessly with nme and 59DJ.

[LIVE Prophet]

it seems so, the first page has a few users saying they installed it and it works perfectly on the 79 drive.

[hacker13]

79FK yes but I can't find a darn thing about the 79FL anywhere

[LIVE Prophet]

lol i didnt know there was a difference! i only been installing on older drives to begin with.

[modarea]

Didn't see any 79FL for the moment.
Sorry I can't help but as soon as I get one, I will post

[LIVE Prophet]

ok, ill be watching for it.

[vc119112]

The nme-360 1.2 works on the 79fl. I used the power point and ground point that are marked + - by the power connector.

[iamcanadian2222]

QUOTE(vc119112 @ Sep 29 2007, 09:25 PM)

The nme-360 1.2 works on the 79fl. I used the power point and ground point that are marked + - by the power connector.

Did you use the coil?  I hooked my old NME 1.2 (that was on my 79FK that went bad) up to my new 79FL using the alternative ground points, but the drive will not boot backups.  However, when I disconnect the +5V wire I get an E64 error. I'm tempted to order a new chip or get a passkey.

Also, are you saying that you hooked the +5V from the chip to the (+) on the DVD board and the ground from the chip up to the (-) on the DVD board?

[looneeii]

Maybe a noob question but what did you use to remove the black epoxy?

[vision]

QUOTE(looneeii @ Oct 15 2007, 02:43 PM)

Maybe a noob question but what did you use to remove the black epoxy?

Use a handheld hair dryer on the hottest setting this makes the epoxy brittle, and while it's still hot use a scalpel to lift that black or clear gunk off. reheat as often as needed. a hot air gun works best though


on another note I have successfully modded a hitachi drive with the nme 360 v1.2 chip. i had to tweak the laser to 2.59ohms now it works flawlessly. I use to use Verbatiem DVD DL but found out that 2.4x speed DVD's dont work to well so I switched to 8x speed and they worked perfectly. I now burn to cheap DVD DL disks called WinData (Micro center) At 8x for a perfect burn evert time. can't beat 20 DVD's for 15 bucks.
thats my story.