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[*Ricey*]

very good - welcome to the start of the nightmare


to be fair you should'nt have a great deal of problems as long as you can solder ok and follow various diagrams

YDGM?? seems to no more than most so when you get stuck knock him up, R155 has posted some pics up also but yet to confirm if his actually works as yet.

sure he'le be along soon to add his comments

[*Ricey*]

QUOTE(barry181091 @ Mar 13 2007, 07:34 PM)

Just opened the back of the dvd drive........First thing i thoght ''JESUS HOW AM I SUPPOSED TO SOLDER WIRES ON TO EACH ONE OF THOSE MICROSCOPIC PIECES OF METAL ? ?       '' And Im still thinking it.

Barry.

get somebody who can micro solder and is very good at it, or risk fryin the dvd board too much contact with the soldering iron and its toast time for the 360 !!

just be careful real careful

[serialkilla]

yes you have to solder each point...if you bridge them just use a desoldering braid and take it off........just get an old controller..broken mouse ...take out the little  borad  and practice soldering for a couple days....dont just jump right into it

Also im guessing you have the hitachi drive , your sayig 1mm apart  thats gonna be hard ,Well not really hard just a pain in the ass  because your have to use very little solder...and your wires are gonna keep popping off.....I'll give you 3 different alternatives ..1 ..forget about the chip  and  do the firmware flash..  2..... get the NME 1.1 chip...its alot easier...and  3  .. buy another  core 360 and hope its a sammy drive..get it switch out the insides and then return it.....also from my experience  with the core 360's  look at the sticker barcode on the side  it starts with W.O ..look for the ones that start with WO.. BK4.....BK6 ..ect ...do not get the ones that start with W.O 88.....ive seen five differnt ones  and theWO   BK's were the sammy drives...and the WO 88  were the hitachi....DONT hold me to that..but its from what i have seen..

[serialkilla]

Oh and  if you dont wanna do any of those....and you wanna keep the everything you have.....then this could make it easier....only solder the I B D F H points .....and the A C E G points ....solder them to the traces...scratch up the green enamel and solder it to the copper traces.....doing that gives you a little space to work with....

[ydgmms]

QUOTE(serialkilla @ Mar 13 2007, 10:05 PM)

Oh and  if you dont wanna do any of those....and you wanna keep the everything you have.....then this could make it easier....only solder the I B D F H points .....and the A C E G points ....solder them to the traces...scratch up the green enamel and solder it to the copper traces.....doing that gives you a little space to work with....

Damn you for stealing my idea .

Hah anyway. The NME1.2s on Hitachi is a BITCH. because like you said the points are so close, but doing what he said and I said in my guide gives you a bit more room to work with, and decreases the chance of a short. Just be careful scratching the enamal off the trace, you just want to reveal the copper, not cut through it.


I don't know what wire came with your chip, but I use an old IDE cable. the wire is damn near perfect size for the points. Just read through my guide and take it one step at a time. When you run into some problem just take it easy, test every point (have a multimeter? if not get one), make sure you are using a good backup to test.

Since its a hitachi, is it a 78k? If its older, you'll need to adjust the laser, it says how in my guide. You *will* need a multimeter for this.

[barry181091]

Yeah , I read your guide its good. Yeah I got wire wire with it...... really thin wire and then thicker wire for the +5v and GND connetion. I also got some solder and desoldering braide .


Barry.