I dont understand how people can not know where the points are.... I dunno. Maybe they just dont read it and use context clues to figure it out but instead just look at the pictures?
As far as special tools tips.
Sharp razor/scalpel - To scratch off the top layer of traces. To hold down wire.
Old IDE cable - This is what I use to make all connections, just an old IDE cable from a harddrive.
Desolder braid - ...necessity
alcohol wipes - to clean the board. find these in the bandage aisle at walmart/dollarstores/etc. they're smal like 1" x 1" squares.
solder flux - help clean my iron tip and help solder flow over points
For both Hitachi/Samsung +5/GND:
1) Heat up the original solder, and put a lil bit of new solder prior to soldering the wires onto the points.
For Hitachi what I do is: (assuming there is no epoxy or after removing any epoxy and cleaning contacts)
1) Use my desolder braid to clean up the contacts of all solder.
2) Tin the points i'm going to need, JUST those points.
3) Tin the wire.
4) Solder said wire to said points. Usually there is enough solder on the tinned point and tinned wire that I can just hold the wire to the point with one hand (usuallyw / the scapel so i dont burn myself) and just press the iron onto the wire for a few seconds and be done.
4b) IF I get to a wire that is too close to another wire and i keep desoldering one, or shorting them out. What I do is use my scalpel to scrape the green resin from the trace til I see the bare copper. wipe it off with alcohol wipe (might take a few scrapes->wipe->scrape->wipe). put some flux on the copper and tin it with soem solder. then use that instead. it helps to prevent shorting the small points out or heating up the points too much and pulling them off.
For Samsung (a lot easier):
1) remove any epoxy that needs to be.
2) I dont bother with soldering to the SST chip(i haven't come across one with the black epoxy but several with the white glue). I just scrape the trace as in 4b of Hitachi for the Pin A
3) For the other pin I, you pretty much HAVE to scrape it(4b of Hitachi) and reveal the copper. I tried soldering straight to it my first time and couldn't get it to stick ta all. SO i scraped it and i do that all the time now.
always test for shorts/opens before plugging anything in. I tend to test from the point on the NME chip to the point on whatever IC its connected to. ESPECIALLY on hitachis since the points are so close together a short can happen without you knowing about it.
I dont bother with the optional points. unless my customer asks me to (i inform him and if he wants me to then ok, if he doesn't care...i dont bother.) Have had only one custoemr want the power led feature, and its simple. just pop off the power button board solder a wire to the respective point in the picture then to the point on the nme chip...simple.
This post has been edited by ydgmms: Feb 27 2007, 10:30 PM