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[syntaxerror329]

You technically don't need to read the nand to jtag it. You just need to install a replacment nand with xellous on it. Then get your CPU key and it is possible to build a completly new nand from donor files.

[NDarkness]

QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Nov 16 2010, 11:08 PM)

You technically don't need to read the nand to jtag it. You just need to install a replacment nand with xellous on it. Then get your CPU key and it is possible to build a completly new nand from donor files.

Awesome!  I have another console with the same mobo as this one.  It's actually my personal backup console...but for this dude I'll do it.  I'll look into getting a heatgun first before picking the legs out.  Don't want to lose a leg and have to resort to do the grinding and soldering again...

[MadBoxer]

QUOTE(NDarkness @ Nov 16 2010, 10:59 PM)

Awesome!  I have another console with the same mobo as this one.  It's actually my personal backup console...but for this dude I'll do it.  I'll look into getting a heatgun first before picking the legs out.  Don't want to lose a leg and have to resort to do the grinding and soldering again...

I'm not sure how much you are looking to pay, but Home depot has a house brand (Ryobi) for $50 that is comparable to a $100 name brand gun. It also includes a narrow nozzle that helps for removing smaller components.

Link:
http://www.homedepot...catalogId=10053

If you are not familiar with heat guns, practice removing some components off junk electronics to get comfortable with the gun before using it on the xbox. Block surrounding capacitors or plastic parts from getting directly hit with hot air and use a suction pickup pen to remove the chip.

[NDarkness]

Just an update-  been busy with Thanksgiving.  Now that I have time, I have purchased the Ryobi Heat Gun that MadBoxer recommended.  I pulled out an old Wii drive motherboard to practice the heat gun on.  I prepared the small motherboard fixing electrical tape on all 4 ends and then covering everything but the chip that I wanted to desolder with foil.  I then taped the foil down with electrical tape to stop it from moving.

Since this is my first time using a heat gun, I just put it at the lowest temperature for now to get a good feel for it.  So, at 200F I warmed up the chip.  This was not enough to melt the solder, of course.  I then raised it up to 500F.  Solder not melting yet.  Raised it up to 800F and after ~10 seconds the solder started to melt and I was able to remove the chip with tweezers.  Sadly, a pad was removed on the motherboard but the chip's legs were all intact- this is all I cared about.  If any of the pads were to be removed on the motherboard where I am going to pull the NAND chip out, then that would fine as I don't think I'd be using that console any time soon.

What I'm worried about though is if I am overheating the chip or not.  Pointing at the chip with a heat gun going at 800F for 10 seconds does not seem safe to me.  I do not see any visible damage, but I wonder if the internal core has been damaged somehow.  Setting the Wii mobo aside, I think I'm ready to pull out the NAND chip on the 360 mobo.

First, I'm going to dump the NAND and then install Xellous.  Then remove the chip and transfer it to the customer's 360.  Hopefully the chip does not overheat!  Wish me luck or if you guys have any other tips then I would like to read them.  I'm going to drop by the store tomorrow to pick up more supplies before starting on removing the chip.

Edit: Actually, now that I think about it, I'm not sure of how to make this NAND support the new console.  I'm sure that the data inside the chip right now is tied to the console I had, so like syntaxerror329 said I'd need to rebuild the NAND with donor files.

This post has been edited by NDarkness: Dec 2 2010, 11:16 PM

[MadBoxer]

Donor Nand:
The nand information is useless on the other board unless the dash version/CB match. If they do then you can use it as a donor nand and replace the KV with the box you are trying to fix. There are plenty of post on this forum on donor nands, do a search.

Chip removal tips:
Are you using flux paste? That works wonders. Put some on the solder pads and it will start bubbling to let you know the temp is close. It also warms up the pads under the legs where hot air can't hitting directly (Can buy at Radioshack). The electrical tape will also get really sticky when heated. You are better off using metallic tape that is used for air vents (Sold at hardware stores) or no tape at all. For that gun, keep it about 3-4inches above the chip and oscillate constantly. 200degree for about 3mins (Pre-heat), 500degree for 2mins and then 800 for about 10-20sec. A suction pickup tool is best, but if you are using pliers, don't just pry it up, first push on it slightly, if it moves, you are good, if it doesn't, then continue to heat before picking it up. If your work area is really cold, you may want to start by warming up the underside of the board at the 200degree setting. Leaving the underside cold requires a longer pre-heat and can cause warping. I place my boards on a 2 inch high stand, place it on a griddle, and heat at the max setting for 4mins.


Causing damage:
800degrees can cause damage if left on too long. Using 2mins at 800degree after 200/500 settings will start damaging components and the board can start separating. If you are worried about 800degrees, 500 setting will eventually melt the solder if the gun is close enough and you are using flux paste. If the solder is not melted, then don't worry about damaging the chip. I would be more concerned with the caps that are close to the nand. Protect them from direct air, but don't completely cover them or the foil will act like an oven!

[NDarkness]

Ah I should have read your post before going on onto this project.

On my spare 360, I dumped the NAND and then installed Xellous to it.

I removed the NAND chip from my spare 360 using the heat gun.  Like the last time, I covered the surrounding area except the NAND with 4x folded foil.  Then I used the heat gun at 500F for 20 seconds to warm it up.  Then at 800F at ~30-45 seconds for the solder to melt to remove the chip.  I then pulled out the customer's JTAG 360 to solder the chip into.  Covered area with foil, lined up the legs of the chip onto the solder pads, then heat gunned the chip at 800F for ~30-45 seconds.  

I wanted to make sure the legs were properly soldered to the pads though so I went back and, using a fresh sharp-pointed soldering tip, soldered each individual leg to the pad.  After inspecting each leg, I wanted to test the 360 before soldering on the JTAG wires to make sure that the chip would not explode.  Started up the console, and then was greeted with E79 which is normal when I did not solder the JTAG wires yet.

So then I went ahead and soldered the wires.  Booted up the machine and E79 again.  As you said, the dash and CB has to match which I doubt it does since the console where I pulled the NAND chip from had 8955 dash I believe.  This JTAG has the dash at 7371.  CB I have no idea since I never dumped the NAND on that one.

Now, in order to re-flash the NAND, I would have to de-solder the chip again and then solder it back to my spare 360 to read/write.  Or I can purchase an external programmer that syntaxerror329 was talking about.  Either way, this is starting to become a pain on my mind and back lol.

I'll see if replacing the NAND fixed the inability to read the NAND on this motherboard from before.

Edit: It didn't.