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[NDarkness]

So I got in a 360 where the previous modder somehow messed up on the NAND reading process.  So now the NAND can no longer be read with nandpro spitting out a "Could not detect a flash controller!" error.  360 still boots up fine so the NAND itself is not corrupted...possibly.

Maybe soldering to the J1D2 and J2B1 points, the traces to the NAND is somehow not fully getting there.  I have inspected the mobo and I don't see anything unusual.  So, right now to get the best connection to the NAND chip I want to solder directly to the NAND legs to rule out any trace problem.

I just need a diagram of the chip's pinouts in order to correctly solder to the legs in relation to the J1D2 and J2B1 points.  If somebody can supply me with this diagram then that'd be awesome.
Thank you.

[syntaxerror329]

It doesn't work that way. The data travels thru the southbridge.
Removing the nand and using some sort of external programmer is one option.

[NDarkness]

Oh, I see.  Is there an external programmer that you would recommend?  

To remove the flash chip I know it'd be advisable to use a reflow machine of some sort.  But, since I don't have one available at the moment, I think I'll do the ol' "de-solder one pin at a time" method.  Being careful not to break any pins, of course.

[syntaxerror329]

QUOTE(NDarkness @ Nov 14 2010, 07:55 PM)

Oh, I see.  Is there an external programmer that you would recommend?  

To remove the flash chip I know it'd be advisable to use a reflow machine of some sort.  But, since I don't have one available at the moment, I think I'll do the ol' "de-solder one pin at a time" method.  Being careful not to break any pins, of course.

When i removed one here i used the "flood" method
Basically i add tons of solder to one side of the chip and short out all the legs. I run my soldering iron back and forth and get all the legs covered in liquid solder and then quickly lift one side. Then remove the excess with braid. Do the same to the other side and your chip is off. clean everything up with more braid.

Rather then spend money on a prgrammer you could just use another xbox 360 motherboard, get something with RROD. The nand programming works even if console is messed up with rrod. Motherboard must be same version or you will have to do the pin short trick to get it to read/write due to the smc code being board specific.

When i first started doing jtags had a board with bad blocks and was having issues so i just installed a new nand. lol. It worked perfect but of course i know how to deal with bad blocks now.

[NDarkness]

I actually do have another motherboard that has RROD but its dashboard version is of the 8XXX series.  Would replacing the NAND on a 360 that is not exploitable work on one that is?  Not sure if it will mess with the e-fuses somehow.  Maybe bridging to protect the e-fuses would be wise first?

[syntaxerror329]

QUOTE(NDarkness @ Nov 14 2010, 10:39 PM)

I actually do have another motherboard that has RROD but its dashboard version is of the 8XXX series.  Would replacing the NAND on a 360 that is not exploitable work on one that is?  Not sure if it will mess with the e-fuses somehow.  Maybe bridging to protect the e-fuses would be wise first?

Makes no difference what dash version it is. You are not turning the machine on beyond the standby power.
If you turned it on by mistake it would error but it would not blow a efuse.

For my example what i did was i read the nand from my bad block xenon. Made XBR and flashed it to a busted board with no bad blocks then transplanted that nand in place of my bad black nand. Solved all my problems but of course I could have learned how to remap bad blocks. I bet it didn't even take me a half hour.

I have been wanting to experiment with downgrading a big block nand to a 16mb in a jasper but it is probably pointless. I don't think anyone is having any issues anymore with BB systems.

[NDarkness]

Got the NAND chip soldered out but sadly there is one casualty as you can see in the picture-

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/5527/img2584k.jpg

It is pin # 27 I believe.  Do all legs need to be soldered to the board in order for the NAND to fully function?  If so, then I wonder if I can solder that particular leg to an alternative point somewhere.  If there isn't, then I have a spare Falcon board that I will try again on.

Burnt soldering flux really makes it look messy heh.

[gamesquest1]

is there a trace from that point to the small circle just to the right of it if so maybe try a small wire underneath the nand to connect it or check under the board see if there is a trace there  you can follow, but idk if you have no luck just try pressing the chip down onto the points and turning on see if it works still before you do all the programming and stuff

atleast if it does you know it isnt a vital pin

This post has been edited by gamesquest1: Nov 15 2010, 08:31 AM

[NDarkness]

No, I do not see any trace that goes into or out of it.  I'll continue to desolder the problem NAND chip and solder it to this board ignoring that trace.

[gamesquest1]

if you still got it loose and it was booting up still just try pressing it onto its pads and hold it in place just see if it boots, so u know if your good without resoldering or programming and not knowing if its an error programming or with the missing leg

[syntaxerror329]

That pad is unused. Don't worry about it.
Nice job, did you do the "flood" method i described?

[kipper2k]

QUOTE(NDarkness @ Nov 15 2010, 12:53 AM)

So I got in a 360 where the previous modder somehow messed up on the NAND reading process.  So now the NAND can no longer be read with nandpro spitting out a "Could not detect a flash controller!" error.  360 still boots up fine so the NAND itself is not corrupted...possibly.

Maybe soldering to the J1D2 and J2B1 points, the traces to the NAND is somehow not fully getting there.  I have inspected the mobo and I don't see anything unusual.  So, right now to get the best connection to the NAND chip I want to solder directly to the NAND legs to rule out any trace problem.

I just need a diagram of the chip's pinouts in order to correctly solder to the legs in relation to the J1D2 and J2B1 points.  If somebody can supply me with this diagram then that'd be awesome.
Thank you.

You do not need to solder to the nand in order to get the nand recognised 99% of the time.  you can kickstart it by plugging in the power connector to the 360 at the same time you press enter to run your nandpro command.  Put the 360 on a power bar with an on/off switch to make it easier.  it works good.  it will prob take a few attempts so dont give in too early

[MadBoxer]

QUOTE(NDarkness @ Nov 14 2010, 04:55 PM)

Oh, I see.  Is there an external programmer that you would recommend?  

To remove the flash chip I know it'd be advisable to use a reflow machine of some sort.  But, since I don't have one available at the moment, I think I'll do the ol' "de-solder one pin at a time" method.  Being careful not to break any pins, of course.

I've replaced and changed Nands multiple times with a simple heat gun. Works like a charm. I cover the area with foil or metallic tape then use an exacto-knife or scalpel to cut open the area around the chip. Slowly heat up until the the chip is loose, then I take it off with a suction pickup tool (Got off ebay for like $2). I actually recorded a video, one of these days maybe I'll get around to uploading on youtube.

[NDarkness]

Well...that was quite an experience lol. (long post warning)

So I took syntaxerror329's advice and flooded one side of the chip.
(IMG:http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/1982/img2574g.th.jpg)

This proved to be difficult, though, as I did not have a suitable tip to heat up all of the solder at once.  I would have needed a broad tip wide enough to do so.  So, I decided to do the other end first using the "lift one leg at a time" method.
(IMG:http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/9730/img2577f.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/2585/img2578z.th.jpg)

Then, while pulling that end of the chip, I quickly ran the soldering iron back and forth on the flooded end to remove the chip.
(IMG:http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/2827/img2582ce.th.jpg)

Did the same with the JTAG NAND chip except I lifted all of the pins instead of using the flooding technique.
(IMG:http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/1451/img2587e.th.jpg)

Now, if you take a closer look at that NAND chip, you will notice that pin #37 is missing.  This is for power (VCC) if I am correct so I would need to fix this. If any of you guys modded Wiis before, then you would know about the D2B cut leg situation.  I had experience with this, so I knew to grind the top of the chip away in order to reveal the traces.
(IMG:http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/7563/img2590i.th.jpg)

Since I was going to solder wires on that grinded section, I might as well use wires on the whole thing.
(IMG:http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/9283/img2591p.th.jpg)
Well that's not going to work since the legs are so fragile.  With a wire soldered on and a slight movement of the wire, the leg will come right off.

After doing some research on the chip, I have found out that a large majority of the NAND's legs are not used (NC=Not Connected)-
(IMG:http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/7308/hy27sg082g2mpinout.jpg)
So, I said "eff it" and decided to grind out the top of the chip to access the traces to solder to with wires.
(IMG:http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/3695/img2592g.th.jpg)

Done and done.
(IMG:http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/1410/img2594r.th.jpg)
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/3725/img2595i.jpg (cannot post thumbnails anymore)
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/1865/img2596g.jpg

This proved to not be great as while I was soldering to the motherboard, some of the wires would pop off from the chip.  So, new tactic.

I will first solder the wires to the board and then superglue them down so that they would not move a millimeter.
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/7532/img2601vc.jpg
http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/8451/img2602.jpg
Done on both sides.
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/6705/img2604f.jpg

Then I proceeded to solder to the NAND's traces.
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/9864/img2605p.jpg

I then mounted the NAND chip on a piece of cardboard for stability and to glue the wires down tight.
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/1177/img2608z.jpg

Everything looked alright.  I inspected the legs with a multimeter to make sure that there's no bridging.  Then I soldered my USB NAND reader to the board.  Plugged in the PSU, plugged in the reader to USB to my PC.  Then started up nandpro.  It started to read!  But wait, it's just giving me a bunch of errors.  And then under the corner of my eye I saw what looked to be a small stream of smoke.  It was.  I quickly exited out of nandpro and unplugged the PSU.  There was smoke coming out of the NAND chip which is making the electrical tape bubble.
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/1350/img2612c.jpg

So now the NAND is dead.  This could have been caused by a couple of reasons-

1.  There actually was a bridging somewhere that I might have missed.
2.  The superglue might have cause a chemical reaction...somehow.
3.  I did actually have to connect all of the wires to the board.

The person who sent me this 360 might be displeased that this 360, in this condition, is not JTAGable but he told me to do whatever it takes to fix it.  If there was one thing that I would have differently it would be that I would have bought a heatgun and used it to properly remove and install the NAND chip.

Oh well, like I said in the beginning, this was a nice experience overall.  Sure the chip died but I have learned several things over this procedure.  Big thanks to syntaxerror329 and the rest of the people here for giving me advice!

[MadBoxer]

Bummer to hear the nand is dead.    Amazing effort trying to it it back together though! A heat gun and a little flux paste on the legs would have done you wonders for this. A lot of people talk them down, but damage usually happens from heat guns because people use cheap ones or don't know what they are doing. I harvest a lot of parts off old or broken electronics with heat guns and have a good heat curve down. If you don't want to risk warping the board, griddles also work good as a pre-heater for the underside.