Topic: Safer And Easier Alternative To Removing The R6t3 Resistor (Read 145 times)

sabbath_dude · « **on:** February 14, 2010, 07:08:00 PM »

As a safer and easier alternative to removing the R6T3 resistor you can instead bridge two solder points on the underside of the 360 motherboard. This will prevent any accidental updates blowing eFuses. It can also be reversed very easily should you ever want to revert to an original Microsoft dashboard. I've used this method on several boxes so far and find it much quicker than removing the resistor. Credit goes to Blackaddr over on xboxhacker for this alternative method (original thread HERE).

I took some photos of my last couple of JTAG installs and edited them in photoshop to give a clearer picture of where to solder. Xenon and Falcon boards differ from late model Falcons and Jaspers. You will find on late model Falcons and Jaspers that U6T1 is not installed. The pics should make it clear where to solder though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) .

Xenon/Falcon
(IMG:http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz194/sabbath_dude3/xenon1DONE12.jpg)

Late Falcon/Jasper
(IMG:http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz194/sabbath_dude3/Jasper1DONE12.jpg)

This post has been edited by sabbath_dude: Feb 15 2010, 03:51 AM

fahrenheit · « **Reply #1 on:** February 15, 2010, 01:49:00 AM »

I did this with my Jasper.

I think anyone who has done jtag soldering on a Falcon or Jasper will have no problems, but people who haven't had much experience and have only done a Xenon Jtag will be a bit spooked by how small these points are and just trying to bridge the points with solder will probably end in a few bridging all three points.

I used a small loop of awg30 and placed one end between points 2 and 3. The other end of the loop I placed to the outside of point 3. This insured the solder ran away from point 1.
Makes it easier to remove too as I have something I can gently lift.

Having said that, there is probably more that can go wrong trying to remove R6T3 if you aren't on your game, so this method trumps that anyways.

BTW, its also much easier to do this when the x-clamps are off as you can approach it from the opposite side where there is a lot less components in the way.

This post has been edited by fahrenheit: Feb 15 2010, 09:51 AM

thwack · « **Reply #2 on:** February 15, 2010, 02:09:00 AM »

It's a good method to use, but is more difficult for the less experienced solderer than simply solder flooding the R6T3. Also, it seems that Blackaddr who fathomed this says there's very little difference 'saftey' wise for the circuit.

Good idea tut'ing it though

ch0p5 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 15, 2010, 07:52:00 AM »

What happens if i have a xenon board with nand dumped and cpu key but was later updated to the latest patch available? is there no going back from this?

edit: seems not

This post has been edited by ch0p5: Feb 15 2010, 04:06 PM

sabbath_dude · « **Reply #4 on:** February 15, 2010, 12:08:00 PM »

QUOTE(thwack @ Feb 15 2010, 09:09 AM)

It's a good method to use, but is more difficult for the less experienced solderer than simply solder flooding the R6T3. Also, it seems that Blackaddr who fathomed this says there's very little difference 'saftey' wise for the circuit.

Good idea tut'ing it though

That's probably true, the points are extremely small. It's just that I've seen a few people asking about the alternative to removing R6T3. I had spare time and thought some close up pics would help anyone that was unsure.

I find it's easiest just to get a blob of solder on the tip of the iron and kinda swipe across the 2 points. Works pretty good for me. Either way, removing that tiny resistor or bridging the points probably shouldn't be attempted unless you're resonably confident with a soldering iron

.

thwack · « **Reply #5 on:** February 15, 2010, 12:21:00 PM »

QUOTE(sabbath_dude @ Feb 15 2010, 07:08 PM)

I find it's easiest just to get a blob of solder on the tip of the iron and kinda swipe across the 2 points. Works pretty good for me. Either way, removing that tiny resistor or bridging the points probably shouldn't be attempted unless you're resonably confident with a soldering iron

.

Very true - and with the bridging method at least you don't have to fart around with a 10k resistor should you wish to reinstall the 360's ability to burn efuses

T3XA5360R3B3L · « **Reply #6 on:** February 15, 2010, 12:31:00 PM »

so if this solder bridging of 2 points disables the ability for the 360 to blow efuses. does that mean that if you have a 2 NAND setup like Cygnos V2, can you update the original NAND with retail 8955 and not worry about killing your Cygnos V2 NAND that has 8955 r3 on it??

thwack · « **Reply #7 on:** February 15, 2010, 12:35:00 PM »

QUOTE(T3XA5360R3B3L @ Feb 15 2010, 07:31 PM)

so if this solder bridging of 2 points disables the ability for the 360 to blow efuses. does that mean that if you have a 2 NAND setup like Cygnos V2, can you update the original NAND with retail 8955 and not worry about killing your Cygnos V2 NAND that has 8955 r3 on it??

No - the latest dash requires an efuse set to be burnt to run, which means that by updating you'll burn the fuses that *technically* allow the JTAG hack to work (Google bootloader etc). XBR uses a 'virtual' burnt efuse set, allowing the latest dash to run without compromising the 360's ability to run the SMC/JTAG hack.

Also by protecting the efuses, if you try and update to the latest official dash, the 360 will error mid update (E80 I think), and then you'd have to restore your original/XBR NAND dump.

W1zz · « **Reply #8 on:** February 15, 2010, 01:53:00 PM »

I've done this to my Xenon and Falcon as per Blackaddr's findings.

Excellent pictures though here, although I wish they were that big for real. lol

To test that your bridge is complete, circuit test the identical (un-bridged) pins on the populated UT62 or UT61. Apparently they're linked, so if you get a circuit you know your solder bridge on the unpopulated side is good.

zane78219 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 17, 2010, 07:49:00 PM »

Very nice

chatterx · « **Reply #10 on:** February 18, 2010, 11:51:00 AM »

is this the two points people are installing a on/off switch to

This post has been edited by chatterx: Feb 18 2010, 07:51 PM

cRaCKwHoRe · « **Reply #11 on:** February 18, 2010, 01:44:00 PM »

QUOTE(chatterx @ Feb 18 2010, 07:51 PM)

is this the two points people are installing a on/off switch to

Depends what you're looking to do. This particular mod prevents the eFuses from being blown from an accidental update. There is another mod people do to write protect their NAND to prevent banning (which is what more people install switches for).

chatterx · « **Reply #12 on:** February 18, 2010, 02:43:00 PM »

what I am wanting to do is have the cat 5 outlet installed on my xbox so I can just plug in the cable and hook up to pc and good to go.

but I am also wanting to make it to where the xbox can not be updated unless I turn the switch on. Unless I am getting this wrong.... and can I update it via flashing and have those two points crossed?

This post has been edited by chatterx: Feb 18 2010, 10:44 PM

rulnip · « **Reply #13 on:** February 27, 2010, 06:49:00 PM »

What would happen if you did bridge all 3 of them and turned the xbox on? It looks like I bridged just the 2 but I do not have a magnifying glass. Should I wait and check with one?

The spots are sooooo much smaller than the picture.

This post has been edited by rulnip: Feb 28 2010, 03:21 AM

rulnip · « **Reply #14 on:** February 27, 2010, 09:00:00 PM »

I found a small magnifying glass and it looked O.k.

I feel safer letting my kids play on the Xbox now when I am not around.

Author Topic: Safer And Easier Alternative To Removing The R6t3 Resistor (Read 145 times)