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[Tag234]

Hello,
I am relatively new to the homebrew scene for the 360 but a couple days ago, I decided i wanted to try and JTAG my console. It had a firmware version of 2.0.6690. I was following these two guides:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=698328
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=691873

I followed this picture exactly for the soldering EXCEPT for the diode (IE the 5 100ohm resistors on the pins mentioned, the 330 ohm resistors connecting the points):
(IMG:http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/6951/loldjq.jpg)

my question is: now that everything is soldered correctly (i checked the cable and board soldering twice), i still get

Testing LPT device address:0378
Testing LPT device address:0278
Testing LPT device address:03BC
Could not detect a flash controller!
Can not continue.

Ive tried all the different BIOS options availiable for the parallel port, and they all give the same problem. What typically causes this? Ive seen alot of different pictures and guides giving different methods of soldering, but i wasnt sure which one is the right one to do. Should i try adding that diode from the picture or does that only help reading the NAND?

This post has been edited by Tag234: Jan 18 2010, 11:28 PM

[Hier0phant]

i'd put the diode in and try again.

i had a similar problem to yourself even with the diode, but switching options in the BIOS for the parallel port kind of sorted it, just gave me bad dumps. (EPP, ECP, EPP+ECP settings gave no controller, SPP found it)
i then tried a different older machine and it dumped perfectly first time, and also the next four dumps after that i tried just to be safe.

so i'd definately put in the diode (its there on the diagrams for a reason) and possibly a different PC.

[Tag234]

Is there a difference between "1N914" and "1N4153" diodes? Also, my mobo's bios only has options for ECP, EPP, Auto, Send only and Bi-Direction

I tried ECP and EPP and Bi-directional, but ive seen SPP mentioned a couple times now. Is that probably Bi-directional for me?

[craz3d]

ECP and EPP retain backward compatibility for SPP modes.  The person that made the picture you used is a fool for telling people flat out that just because his hardware configuration does not require a diode, that nobody needs it.  The fact that he's done over 40 XBOXs is meaningless.  As someone else suggested, try using the diode.  Also the resistor JTAG hack for Xenon has been updated to use diodes (same part number).

The two diodes you mentioned should be interchangable.  Most people use 1N914

[Tag234]

refering to this method I assume?:

(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/ptWYM.png)

Ok, well ill go buy 3 Diodes and try with the one diode on the original picture that i left out, and if that doesnt work, ill change the 3 330s to this setup and see what happens... I just rechecked the cable and it should indeed be correct assuming that the RJ45 coupler im using crosses the wires so that the 2 RJ45 cables are continuous and not crossed

[craz3d]

Yeah, the 330 ohm for the JTAG hack were the original specification, and it should work, but I think somewhere down the line it was decided diodes were safer.  The picture you linked is the same one I used and can verify it works for my Xenon.

The RJ45 does account for the wire-reversal, so you should be fine in that regard.  Honestly though, you should just get it working without the whole ethernet port setup.  Once you get the hack running and can boot Xell, you can dump and flash your NAND chip within a linux environment.  This method is much faster and the automated program lflash also does a read-verify after flashing.

[Tag234]

ok so i did the wiring according to this picture:

(IMG:http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/6924/24171185.png)

I tried all options in the BIOS with and without the optional diode... None of them worked, they all gave me the exact same thing as before...

Any other ideas? only things i can think of now are try it on a different computer (even tho i dont have another with an lpt port) or hack up the cable/coupler thing i did and try a direct connection (even tho that really shouldnt be the issue)

Btw, my cables only about a foot and a half long so it shouldnt be that

[craz3d]

Are you using an ethernet coupler in between?  If so I suggest trying to get flashing working with a direct connection, then move on to installing the permanent RJ45 connector.

Also, this may seem silly, but double check that you have drivers installed in windows.  If they you don't see an LPT device listed in the device manager, try finding any Unknown Devices, and downloading driver software for your motherboard's chipset.

This post has been edited by craz3d: Jan 19 2010, 04:59 AM

[Tag234]

yea, device manager lists a LPT1 port and says it's working.. The BIOS is set to look at 0374 just like nandpro checks... Unless the computer's chipset is just uncompatible (the comp I'm using runs windows 2000... 500mhz processor, 256mb of ram, only one I had with lpt)...

I'm going to try on a friends computer and if that doesn't work, I'll hack up my coupler/wire thing and try a direct connection

edit: btw does it matter that I couldn't find 1N914 diodes so I bought NIE112 instead? They're still switching, but just a little smaller. Still silicon

This post has been edited by Tag234: Jan 19 2010, 05:27 AM

[craz3d]

1) are you using the ethernet coupler or are you connected directly to a DB25 pin?

2)I don't believe that would have any effect on NANDPro detecting your flash controller.  If you right click it in device manager, you should be able to find its address in its properties dialog.  If it doesn't fall within the below ranges, this might be why nandpro doesn't see it.  

378h - 37Fh  Usual Address For LPT 1
278h - 27Fh  Usual Address For LPT 2

3) You installed dlportio right?

This post has been edited by craz3d: Jan 19 2010, 05:34 AM

[Tag234]

1) Currently my setup is the exact tut I linked in OP. I used the end of a cat5 and soldered 7 of the 8 wires to the board, plugged it in to a coupler,  used another end from a different cable, plugged that into the other side of the coupler and took he wires from that cat5, added resistors and soldered to the db25

2) oops I said the wrong address in my post, but device manager lists the port that nandpro is scanning so that should be ok.

3) Yess

[craz3d]

OK.  I know you probably really want to keep the Ethernet coupler set up, but I think to get it working you should first take out all unnecessary links in the chain.  Connect a DB25 connector to 7 wires (you can use an ethernet cable with no connectors) and take those 7 wires and solder them directly to the resistors and diode and then solder those components directly to the board.  We want to keep the cable as short as possible.

It might be worth trying a different computer, but it doesn't sound like your LPT port is dead.

This post has been edited by craz3d: Jan 19 2010, 08:30 AM

[Tag234]

ok i got it to work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) reading my NAND now for the second time.... One question since you seem knowledgeable: what do i have to flash in order to never have to do this again? XBReboot is the guide that im following, but you talked about Xell and how its able to update from linux.... Is this XBReboot thing still what i want?

[craz3d]

XBReboot is a complete package that contains Xell and XBReboot (the hacked 8955 kernel).  To boot from linux, all you need to do is grab the distribution from xbins, then burn it to a cd/dvd and place it in the try before booting Xell.

To boot Xell you can do the following:
turn on 360 w/ dvd eject
turn on 360 w/ wired controller in back usb port
turn on 360 w/ windows media remote (using windows button)

Once you are in a linux environment you can compile lflash and use that program to update your version of XBR.  I have not yet done this personally so you'll need to look through these forums for the guide.

[Guy Montag]

Xell is mainly used to find out your CPU key.  XBR is what you need to boot unsigned Xex files like XEXLoader and XEXMenu, etc.  You definitely want XBR.