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[Guy Montag]

I finally got it to solder by using a brand new 15-watt soldering iron with a small tip.  I held the tip to the point on the mobo, used very thin solder and touched it to the point right near the iron until some solder went into the hole.  Then I tinned a wire and held the wire on top of the point and heated them both up and removed my iron.  I then used a multimeter to make sure I had a good connection.  I also cleaned the area first with alcohol and a q-tip.

[Ranger72]

Use the alternate point under the board here.

[InvidiousDemise]

I actually had the best luck soldering to the trace the user above did.  Instead of doing it how the pic above shows, I went to the right and scraped off the green covering very delicately with a razor blade corner making sure to only expose the trace and not any of the board next to the trace.  I then cleaned the trace and followed it up with a coat of flux.  I scraped about 1/4 inch off and made sure the wire was about the same. I tinned my wire and tacked it to the trace ever so slightly and quickly.  I tested the jtag to make sure it was working properly then I hot glued the ever living crap out of all my connections to keep them from coming loose.

I had several attempts at soldering DB1F1 and it's alternate points to no avail.  I'd say did 2 or 3 gorgeous solder jobs on those little bastard points and still never got a good connection on their joint.  I ended up fucking up the points enough to make me afraid to touch them any more (I was very careful the entire time for fear of frying any of the points.) I think they all still function but yeah- just to try something different I went with the trace and was amazed at how easy it was compared to trying to do those stupid little solder points.  I've read that it's harder to solder to a trace but to me- it was the easiest.

And if you did accidentally fuck up  a trace, you could try using a conductive pen to redraw it anyway.

I don't recommend using a fiberglass pen to expose your trace unless it has a very fine tip. Mine seemed a bit more wide than it needed to be and tended to want to remove more green stuff than I wanted. (hence the reason I went with a razor blade edge to scrape the trace.

Just my experience with the tricky little bastard.

If you don't get video after thinking you did the solder joint right(or feeling confident that you did)- check your DB1F1. That little bastard is elusive.

[Ranger72]

QUOTE(darietti @ Jan 14 2010, 01:07 PM)

I dont understand where exactly remove green covering and where exactly do the cut.please be patient post another picture.

That is just a pic I found. You DO NOT want to solder where the wire is sitting. You want to solder the wire to the ft1u2 point. You don't need to cut anything.

[Ranger72]

QUOTE(darietti @ Jan 14 2010, 02:45 PM)

I dont have it anymore,wrong soldering and Tin 'chemical element' 's gone

Both the top and bottom one is gone?

[TBAYJ]

i messed up my first one , i just used the corner of a razor blade till i could some of the trace and soldered to it , then used epoxy on it - jtag'd for life

[darietti]

QUOTE(TBAYJ @ Jan 15 2010, 01:41 AM)

i messed up my first one , i just used the corner of a razor blade till i could some of the trace and soldered to it , then used epoxy on it - jtag'd for life

what trace exactly??

[TBAYJ]

look to the right of where the other guy soldered to see the line running towards the right ?

thats where i did it very carefully scrape it lightly with a the corner of a sharp razor blade ( single edge or olfa is what i would use)

unitil u see the wire ...if u have a sharp tip on you iron u also may be able to burn the protective layer off down to the trace ...but back sure you NO SOLDER  on your tip or if u hit the trace u will solder to it and possible lift it

[hemelinger]

You can just "repair" the Db1F1 Solder point.

Use a 05.mm metal drill. Just turn it with your fingers until you can see a little "copper pice" in the middle of the solder point. Clean it with compressed air. Take a 0.4mm soldering tip. Apply just a little bit of lead on the tip. Hold the soldering iron at a right angle on the copper piece and you will get some lead back on the point again. But it is important that you get the point heated up enough, otherwise the lead will not flow to it. A soldering iron that lets you control the temperatur helps much.

Next time  solder the point right away with a 0.4mm tip and not more than 350 degree, and you will do fine.

[darietti]

TBAYJ

tell me where please.point 1 , 2 or 3

[iceman2048]

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I have the same question as darietti. Where exactly would one solder the DB1F1 alternative wire?

Thanks in advance.

[p4r0l3]

Yeah db1f1 seems to be a tough one for alot of people. I was careless and burned the pad on db1f1 myself.

Ft1u2 isn't a great alternate. Here's the best alt spot imho

[p4r0l3]

Sorry for the super late reply (just rediscovered this thread), but yes you are correct. It's the point