xboxscene.org forums

Pages: 1 [2]

Author Topic: Nand Read Not Working  (Read 89 times)

foreirongold

  • Archived User
  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 25
Nand Read Not Working
« Reply #15 on: January 18, 2010, 07:12:00 PM »

Have you tried taking a dump of the nand as is and comparing it to your KV-injected XBR?

Chances are if you got bad dumps with your setup then you might have silent bad writes as craz3d said, which would explain the E79.

Were there any bad blocks from the original dump? (use of degraded should tell you)

Personally I don't flash until I get 3 identical dumps in a row, it takes ages on my system but after that I'm 99.9% convinced that the setup is good for writing and if it goes pear shaped I've got 3 good independent dumps to fall back on.

Quality of soldering, length of cable as well as choice of PC are what dictate a successful dump/flash.

I went through 4 PCs before I found one that gave me perfect dumps (thus perfect writes) everytime, cable length ~90cm (3ft).
Logged

Ban Mido

  • Archived User
  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 22
Nand Read Not Working
« Reply #16 on: January 18, 2010, 09:04:00 PM »

QUOTE(foreirongold @ Jan 18 2010, 07:12 PM) View Post

Have you tried taking a dump of the nand as is and comparing it to your KV-injected XBR?
Yeah and they matched.
Chances are if you got bad dumps with your setup then you might have silent bad writes as craz3d said, which would explain the E79.

Were there any bad blocks from the original dump? (use of degraded should tell you)
No they were all clear.
Personally I don't flash until I get 3 identical dumps in a row, it takes ages on my system but after that I'm 99.9% convinced that the setup is good for writing and if it goes pear shaped I've got 3 good independent dumps to fall back on.

Quality of soldering, length of cable as well as choice of PC are what dictate a successful dump/flash.

I went through 4 PCs before I found one that gave me perfect dumps (thus perfect writes) everytime, cable length ~90cm (3ft).

Any other ideas  uhh.gif
Logged

craz3d

  • Archived User
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 144
Nand Read Not Working
« Reply #17 on: January 18, 2010, 09:18:00 PM »

Well, if your flashing is fine, it has to be JTAG wiring.  Are you using lead-free solder?  If so try using some lead based solder instead, you'll want to get some labeled 60/40 (or close to it). 60/40 refers to 60 parts tin to 40 parts lead.

The mainboard uses lead-free solder which is harder to work with by hand.  If you get some lead based solder and some flux into the joint, it might be easier for you to make a better connection.  You can get solder with a flux core or get it separately.

Also verify that you have the proper diodes and that they are oriented properly.  There are pictorial guides if you're unsure.
Logged

Ban Mido

  • Archived User
  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 22
Nand Read Not Working
« Reply #18 on: January 19, 2010, 07:32:00 PM »

QUOTE(craz3d @ Jan 18 2010, 09:18 PM) View Post

Well, if your flashing is fine, it has to be JTAG wiring.  Are you using lead-free solder?  If so try using some lead based solder instead, you'll want to get some labeled 60/40 (or close to it). 60/40 refers to 60 parts tin to 40 parts lead.

The mainboard uses lead-free solder which is harder to work with by hand.  If you get some lead based solder and some flux into the joint, it might be easier for you to make a better connection.  You can get solder with a flux core or get it separately.

Also verify that you have the proper diodes and that they are oriented properly.  There are pictorial guides if you're unsure.

Ok i just checked and it is leaded. How do i apply the flux anyway because its all sortof solidified like a paste.

QUOTE(Ban Mido @ Jan 17 2010, 05:05 PM) View Post

Alright i finished re-soldering my jtag and i am still getting a e79. Should i re-flash or try something else. Oh also on pin 2 on the part where your solder the diodes there is a solder joint not connected to anything. I just wasn't able to remove it. Could this be my problem?

Is there any way that this stray joint is my problem. Its not part of the board, its just a glob of solder i accidentally dropped there, but it isn't connected to anything.
Logged

Ban Mido

  • Archived User
  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 22
Nand Read Not Working
« Reply #19 on: January 21, 2010, 05:04:00 PM »

bump
Logged

craz3d

  • Archived User
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 144
Nand Read Not Working
« Reply #20 on: January 21, 2010, 05:12:00 PM »

Leaving a clump of solder on your mainboard surely isn't _helping_ the situation.

If you don't have proper solder-removal tools (a sucker or desoldering braid) the its about time for you to go to the shop and get one.  If you have a large, flat blob of solder, the best thing to remove that with is likely a little flux and a desoldering braid.

Your problem is more likely than not a user error.  Without being there, the advice I've given you is the best I can personally do.  Re-read all of my posts to the dot.  If you skipped over anything, you should go back and try it.  This is in no way a personal attack, but I've gotten the feeling after helping you with each successive issue you've had that you are either:

a ) rushing and not taking your time
b ) bad at following directions
c ) generally inexperienced (not a bad thing, you gotta start somewhere)

It's probably a slight combination of all these things.  Here are some other things I can think of:

Flashing Do's:
*Plug your PC and 360 power adapter into the same power strip / surge suppressor
*Verify that you have the proper flash config for your system
*Follow the following procedure for flashing.
_1_Turn on PC, hook up LPT cable to 360.  connect power to 360
_2_Do a test read of 5 blocks to a garbage file.  Then do a test write of 5 blocks to the NAND.  Read back the same segment of blocks and compare.
_3_Repeat step 2 until you get 100% matches.  Now write unmodified XBR image to console.
_4_Once XBR finishes, read the whole NAND back and compare it to the image you used to flash it.  I don't know if you've done this step yet, but just because you get 10 matching blocks doesn't mean the _WHOLE_ write is perfect.
_5_Once you know that your entire XBR image is correct, flash _only_ the KV.  Read it back and verify it was correctly written.
_6_Once you're done reading and verifying, close the command prompt for nandpro, unplug the power from the 360, then unplug the DB-25 connector.  Some people say at this point you should wait for a minute or two.  I've never seen any good reasoning for this, but hey, we're trying to be very conservative here since you're having issues, so do it.
_7_After waiting for a few minutes without anything connected to the 360, plug it in and try booting into Xell by hitting the eject button, a controller in the back port, or the windows media remote.  If you can boot into Xell, then try booting into the hacked dash with the power button on the front.

If you perform steps 1 through 6 exactly as I say (and using the proper flash commands as per the tutorials for your system), you can be 99.9% sure that you have a good flash of XBR.  Once you've done this we can eliminate bad flash from the picture and focus _only_ on the hardware aspect.  Once you get the good flash I suggest not fiddling with it any more.  In other words, don't try reading or flashing the NAND chip once you have a good flash of XBR.  You might even go so far as to remove the LPT wiring to eliminate as many variables from the equation as possible.

Flashing Don'ts:
*Turn on your 360 while flashing
*Don't use your computer while flashing
*Don't unplug/plug devices into the power suppressor while flashing


General hints for soldering:
*Verify that you are using the latest JTAG points for your system.  I only have a Xenon and those points are pretty close together/easy, so I can't help you in that department if you're running anything else.

*Double, triple, and quadruple check that you have the components where they're supposed to be (bridging the correct nodes/points) and that the orientation of the diodes is correct.

*Keep your connections as minimal as possible.  This means if your 2 points you need to bridge with a diode are 10 inches apart, don't use 20 inches of wire.  This hack depends on these components providing APPROXIMATE voltages to communicate over the JTAG interface.  With this hack we are very loosely meeting the specification, so you want to keep any interference caused by wire length and poor soldering to a minimum.

*Read and/or watch as many tutorials on soldering techniques as you can.  Educate yourself on good vs bad solder joints : Luckily, way back in the dark ages when I went to high school, I was able to take a class in electronics.  If you are not this fortunate, youtube might be a great alternative.  Unfortunately, I've never needed to look up videos like this so I can't give any recommendations.  Read the comments to make sure the content you watch is providing sound advice.  If the advice is bad, hopefully there will be many people saying so in the comments
Check out this site, I've seen it posted around and has good advice: http://www.curiousinventor.com

*Check for any other solder splashes or bad joints with a magnifying glass or microscope.

*Only solder in good lighting conditions.  A "helping hand" a device with clamps to hold wires, is very useful while still relatively cheaply available.

*If you have a multimeter, use it to check your components.  Here's a lesson: http://mechatronics....multimeter.html

My best advice, however, is to take your time and keep a level head.  Try not to get frustrated, if you're the type that does, and you're having problems with a certain part, step away for a few minutes, grab a drink or a snack and come back a little later.  You'll make more mistakes if you're distracted.
Logged

Ban Mido

  • Archived User
  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 22
Nand Read Not Working
« Reply #21 on: January 22, 2010, 09:01:00 PM »

CODE
Comparing files dump.bin and XBR.BIN
00008A9A: 80 B7
00008A9B: 5B 99
000096F0: A0 BD
000096F1: 17 C8
000096F2: 00 98
000096F3: 00 65
0000AE8C: 98 E6
0000AE8D: 03 F4
0000AE8E: 00 B2
0000AE8F: 00 75
Logged

Ban Mido

  • Archived User
  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 22
Nand Read Not Working
« Reply #22 on: January 24, 2010, 09:58:00 PM »

okay i did the flash and compare a bunch of times and they were all bad. This is obviously very weird because i got good original nand dumps from when my cable was longer (i did check my splice to make sure the wires matched and they do.)

I will probably re-do my lpt soldering and try again. Unless someone has a better idea?
Logged

Ban Mido

  • Archived User
  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 22
Nand Read Not Working
« Reply #23 on: January 30, 2010, 10:20:00 AM »

QUOTE(Ban Mido @ Jan 24 2010, 09:58 PM) View Post

okay i did the flash and compare a bunch of times and they were all bad. This is obviously very weird because i got good original nand dumps from when my cable was longer (i did check my splice to make sure the wires matched and they do.)

I will probably re-do my lpt soldering and try again. Unless someone has a better idea?

bump
Logged
Pages: 1 [2]