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[xxpittbullxx]

you need the diode on pin 11!

[xxpittbullxx]

its a start

[craz3d]

It is possible you have a short somewhere.  Double check that everything is grounded properly, that no wires cross, et cetera.

[Ban Mido]

QUOTE(craz3d @ Jan 10 2010, 05:39 PM)

It is possible you have a short somewhere.  Double check that everything is grounded properly, that no wires cross, et cetera.

Okay i got the short fixed and im dumping right now. so far no errors. ill update when its done. thanks for all your guys help.

[Ban Mido]

ok i have done three dumps now. i compared them and none match. i am doing a fourth one right now. When its done i will compare again.

B.t.w i am not using total commander or anything to check besides

CODE

fc nand1 nand2 /b

If this one doesnt work should i shorten my cable? its about 3 feet. Or could it be somethin else?

[bulle48]

Shorter cable should help...
You can try using Hex Workshop (Freeware Hex Editor) to compare.  
You can also try just reading the first few MB of your nand a couple times (nandpro lpt: -r3 orig3mb.bin), and if that matches, then check your CB... if all is good, flash Xell to the beginning of your nand, and update to XBR in linux with xbrflash.

Updating in Linux is way faster than nandpro/lpt, and more stable (less chance of read/write errors)

Check this tutorial for more detail... http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=701315
just replace lflash.c with the newly released xbrflash.c

[Ban Mido]

okay i have done 5 dumps. The 2nd and the 4th ones match. i opened them in degraded and my cb is 1903  . So i should be good to go right. I think i will just use your xell trick because my cable might be a little unreliable.

[Ban Mido]

Okay heres an update. I have done the jtag wiring and have flashed xbr a few times. It hasnt worked yet. The first few times it would just boot but stick at a black screen. Now as soon as i turn it on the fans ramp up all the way and eventually it flashes the 3 red rings.

I have done it with both my kv and the config. I have shortened the wires in the lpt. Im not sure but i think i only got the 3 red rings after shortening the wire.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

P.S: This is what part of the alphabet would look like if Q and R were eliminated.

[Ban Mido]

Okay i re  did everything and flashed xbr again. now everytime it start it i get the e79. Can anyone help me out?  

[craz3d]

Dump your nand after flashing it and compare it to the image that you used to write to the NAND (including any modifications such as injected KV/config/etc.).

In other words, compare what you've written to the NAND against what's supposed to be there.  If you don't want to dump the whole NAND to verify that you're writing correctly, dump just a small segment by adding "1 30" to the end of your nandpro commands, like so:

nandpro lpt: -r16 small_NAND_dump.bin 1 30

the above command will use LPT as its device, and read 30 blocks starting at block 1 into a file called small_NAND_dump.bin.

If you go this route, you also need to dump the same segment of blocks from your xbr image.  Once you've accounted for any differences from the stock xbr.bin (ie if you flashed KV separately, you need to inject the KV into the xbr image first), extract the same segment of blocks out of xbr.bin into a new file:

nandpro xbr.bin: -r16 small_xbr.bin 1 30

then use fc.exe as you've been doing to compare these two dumps.

If you get any differences, you're getting silent write errors, which is generally a symptom of a cable which is too long.  Try to get it under 18 inches, preferably under 12.  Then try reading a small chunk of your NAND to verify the cable still works, then flash.

[Ban Mido]

QUOTE(craz3d @ Jan 16 2010, 03:30 PM)

Dump your nand after flashing it and compare it to the image that you used to write to the NAND (including any modifications such as injected KV/config/etc.).

In other words, compare what you've written to the NAND against what's supposed to be there.  If you don't want to dump the whole NAND to verify that you're writing correctly, dump just a small segment by adding "1 30" to the end of your nandpro commands, like so:

nandpro lpt: -r16 small_NAND_dump.bin 1 30

the above command will use LPT as its device, and read 30 blocks starting at block 1 into a file called small_NAND_dump.bin.

If you go this route, you also need to dump the same segment of blocks from your xbr image.  Once you've accounted for any differences from the stock xbr.bin (ie if you flashed KV separately, you need to inject the KV into the xbr image first), extract the same segment of blocks out of xbr.bin into a new file:

nandpro xbr.bin: -r16 small_xbr.bin 1 30

then use fc.exe as you've been doing to compare these two dumps.

If you get any differences, you're getting silent write errors, which is generally a symptom of a cable which is too long.  Try to get it under 18 inches, preferably under 12.  Then try reading a small chunk of your NAND to verify the cable still works, then flash.

ok i will go do this now. is this what e79 usually means?

[Ban Mido]

okay i just did that and there are no differences. Is it possible that i took a bad dump. Like i said earlier in the thread only 2 of 5 dumps matched. When i did the dump the cable was about 4 feet long. I did shorten it when i flashed xbr.

[Ban Mido]

QUOTE(craz3d @ Jan 16 2010, 05:19 PM)

Here's what you can do to be sure you have a good dump.

Set aside your two that match, now we have three mis-matching dumps.  Run those dumps through NANDCompare and try to generate a good dump using the 3 mis-matching dumps.  Then use fc.exe to compare this dump to one of the 2 originally-matching dumps.  If they match, there's a good chance that you made a good dump.

Verify that your JTAG wiring is correct and that you have good solder joints.

Okay i did the reconstruction and they all match. Any other ideas? I will go and resolder my jtag wiring to see if that works. Ill update when im done.

[Ban Mido]

Alright i finished re-soldering my jtag and i am still getting a e79. Should i re-flash or try something else. Oh also on pin 2 on the part where your solder the diodes there is a solder joint not connected to anything. I just wasn't able to remove it. Could this be my problem?

[Ban Mido]

bump