Topic: Before I Do A Xenon Jtag..some Q's I Have (Read 123 times)

xmugen360 · « **on:** January 04, 2010, 01:03:00 PM »

Hey pls don't flame me cause I have tried to find answers to these questions before I posted...here goes... I am working on doing jtag hack on an old Xenon I have lying around. My kernal seems to be 2.0 6000 or something so It is before any patches so should be exploitable, But it is on the old Blades Dash not NXE....so before I dump nand and inject xell/xbrboot:

1. Do I have to update to a newer dash?
2. After this jtag dumping/injecting has been performed are future updates to nand now possible without these wires soddered in or must they allways remain there for future updates to dashboard and apps...? Can future update be applied via usb or net in xell?

lpt cable q's
How many wires should I need? 7? Would I need to add any wires to those found when splicing an ethernet cat 5 patch cable? I understand the pin diagram but have no previous sodder knowledge. I see in pics that some resisitors are soddered to the 25 pin connector and some are soddered onto the motherboard end. Can someone clearly state to me which is which specs wise and qty? I have seen some different answers. Lastly can someone show me a pic of where their diode is place/soddered? Some post seem to indicate it is not needed... Thanks for any help!

AZImmortal · « **Reply #1 on:** January 04, 2010, 01:57:00 PM »

1. Don't update to a newer dash.
2. You need to leave the JTAG wires in for the hack to work. You can take out the LPT/SPI wires used for reading/writing the nand and just use gentoo linux for future flashes. However, if you misflash at some point and can't boot into Xell, then you'll have to flash through SPI again.
3. You should need no more than 7 wires when connecting the SPI points to your DB25 connector. An ethernet cable comes with 8 wires inside of it. You can follow this diagram for the wiring and quantities of resistors and diodes. You'll need two to three 1N4148 diodes (the third diode is optional on the LPT connector but you might need it) and five 100ohm resistors. The diodes should be soldered directly onto the motherboard and the resistors can go anywhere.

xmugen360 · « **Reply #2 on:** January 04, 2010, 06:35:00 PM »

I really appreciate your help but still a little unclear. As far as dash I hope to eventually install xbrboot so when I flash that do I get update to new NXE dash? I never see the old blades used when i see vids.

Ok so the resistors get soddered to the male 25 pin plug side of the wires? This is what I got out of your post qty 5 100ohm being spec. What throws me off is I read of two different resistors being used and on youtube there is a guy showing how he does is and he seems to show 2 different types with one being attached on the board side www.youtube.com/watch?v=rykZBDXyz6k ? I guess there is more than one way to do it?

Thanks for clearing up the diode part. I am pretty sure I can do it if anyone can post some diff pics of setup it would be great...

DrexeL_UK · « **Reply #3 on:** January 05, 2010, 02:00:00 AM »

QUOTE(xmugen360 @ Jan 5 2010, 01:35 AM)

I really appreciate your help but still a little unclear. As far as dash I hope to eventually install xbrboot so when I flash that do I get update to new NXE dash? I never see the old blades used when i see vids.

When you have installed xbreboot you will have the NXE dash.

xmugen360 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 05, 2010, 08:18:00 AM »

thanks for the clarification...can anyone recommend a good soddering gun spec wise for this?

Choochoo · « **Reply #5 on:** January 05, 2010, 09:00:00 AM »

QUOTE(xmugen360 @ Jan 5 2010, 04:18 PM)

thanks for the clarification...can anyone recommend a good soddering gun spec wise for this?

yeah, I never know of a good soldering gun and good solder, I'd be interested to see what people say as well.

kingpickle · « **Reply #6 on:** January 05, 2010, 11:36:00 AM »

This is a good one to start with. I started with this iron years ago. Model WLC-100 . This iron with the size ST7 tips they make for it are perfect for small soldering jobs. I bought this one for installing ps2 mod chips which had some soldering points small as the period at the end of this sentence. <-----Yes, that period

.

Though I didnt get mine at sears, some do carry it.

xmugen360 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 05, 2010, 08:12:00 PM »

Ok! Everyone has been great! I now feel brave enough to attempt this tomorrow...ok now of course there is one last thing...I now realize that the nand dump cable wiring/soldering is different from the JTAG hack wiring/bridging/soldering (this is all new to me and I had to reread MAD Gouki's diagram till I got it)....Basically I only have some simple questions at this point to reassure me I am on right track...

I can use wires from inside a cat 5 patch cable to wire the jtag points in MAD Gouki's XENON diagram and these would not be connected to my lpt nand dump cable but are points for the JTAG that use a diode on one end and connect to another point on the mobo at the other? Point 4 to point 7 would not require a diode just a wire bridging the two points? I am basing it on the diagram here: http://i.imgur.com/U93J1.jpg any help is very much appreciated...

This post has been edited by xmugen360: Jan 6 2010, 04:13 AM

Downcastnut · « **Reply #8 on:** January 05, 2010, 08:22:00 PM »

QUOTE(xmugen360 @ Jan 5 2010, 07:12 PM)

Ok! Everyone has been great! I now feel brave enough to attempt this tomorrow...ok now of course there is one last thing...I now realize that the nand dump cable wiring/soldering is different from the JTAG hack wiring/bridging/soldering (this is all new to me and I had to reread MAD Gouki's diagram till I got it)....Basically I only have some simple questions at this point to reassure me I am on right track...

I can use wires from inside a cat 5 patch cable to wire the jtag points in MAD Gouki's XENON diagram and these would not be connected to my lpt nand dump cable but are points for the JTAG that use a diode on one end and connect to another point on the mobo at the other? Point 4 to point 7 would not require a diode just a wire bridging the two points? I am basing it on the diagram here: http://i.imgur.com/U93J1.jpg any help is very much appreciated...

i would use my own wire for the jtag points. use the cat5 cable for the lpt setup. Also point 16 on the lpt cable is a ground so you dont need to solder that to that point. just solder it to the copper ring where the dvd drive screws in. For me that point on the board would not hold solder. There is also a diode on point 11 for the lpt setup. all diodes should be soldered directly to the board. and the bridge point do not have a diode. when soldering the diode make sure the black band on the diode is facing the motherboard

xmugen360 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 05, 2010, 08:34:00 PM »

Ok I got ya I now read further and 30 awg wire is suggested specifically for the jtag wiring not the cat 5 wires. Is there any things I might have I can salvage this type of wire from? If not I guess I just have to make another trip to radio shack...Thank you very much for your help...

XBoxgeek · « **Reply #10 on:** January 06, 2010, 01:24:00 AM »

I used an old cat5 cable for my LPT install and then used a bit of the off cut and extracted 3 wires from it to do the Jtag. Not sure why you would think you can't use cat5

xmugen360 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 06, 2010, 09:09:00 AM »

Thanks you are the best this post above had confused me: "i would use my own wire for the jtag points. use the cat5 cable for the lpt setup" and when I would look it up everyone said the jtag wiring should be 30awg and I wasnt sure if this was a specific spec i had to stick to for the jtag part of the wiring/bridging/soldering. Thanks your clarification saved me a few quid. I have plenty of spare cat 5 cable...XBOX SCENE RULES

now if I could only fire up a decent dreamcast emu and xmguen on 360 one day that would be awesome sauce...

This post has been edited by xmugen360: Jan 6 2010, 05:12 PM

bulle48 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 06, 2010, 10:41:00 AM »

This is a good Tut with lots of pictures for making a detachable LPT port on the 360 using a cat5 cable and a coupler:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=691873
This worked great for me, just keep the wires short.

*edit*
You will also need to solder the JTAG section which isn't shown in the above Tutorial pics. Use this diagram: (IMG:http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r167/XxEclispedMoonxX/JTAG_Hack/Fdjmi.png)
*/edit*

I used some of the spare pieces of wire from the Cat5 ethernet cable to do the JTAG part.

30AWG is the thickness of the wire. Cat5 is actually 24AWG which is thicker than 30AWG but will still work fine. All together you will need 5 resistors (100 ohm), and 3 diodes (1n914 or 1n4148). Make sure you solder the diodes in the right direction (look at the black bar on the diodes in the pics) otherwise it will not work. If you don't have a xenon MB, do not solder the diode directly to DB1F1... instead solder it on the other side (keeping the same direction) and run a wire to DB1F1 to solder. This will hopefully prevent that small tiny point from ripping off when moving wires around to fit the DVD drive in.

As for soldering iron... I use Hakko 941 which is a bit pricey but is just as good as the high end Weller irons which sell for twice as much. You can probably get away with a cheap $30 iron from your electronic stores but you need to be careful. The cheap irons usually don't have a temp control so they can get too hot and start destroying the traces on the PCB or be too cold and not melt the solder properly... also the tips tend to break very easily.

Make sure to use leaded solder (60% tin 40%lead, or similar) as this has a much lower melting point then the lead free and flows better making it easier to solder. Lead-free solder is used by electronics manuf. since many countries have limits on how much lead can be used.

This post has been edited by bulle48: Jan 6 2010, 07:12 PM

xmugen360 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 06, 2010, 08:24:00 PM »

thanks bulle48 that post helped alot so did everyone else's quick update....

I have not installed jtag wiring yet but the nand lpt dumper was constructed (albeit extremely crudely screw radio shack and their sub par 25 male db plug design...) and at first the flash controller was not detected (alot of my connections on the plug end were horrible since I suck at soldering....but after I failed a couple of times I checked bios lpt settings and jostled the plug a little bit which I read in a thread somewhere she is currently dumping. I am not out of the woods yet but wanted to thank those that helped me and let others know of my experience in case it helps

XBOX SCENE 4 LIFE

(did anyone get aload of scott hull on tna the other night too funny...)

1st dump complete no errors everything looks ok taking 2nd now....

and they match with no bad blocks yay!

This post has been edited by xmugen360: Jan 7 2010, 05:08 AM

XBoxgeek · « **Reply #14 on:** January 07, 2010, 12:27:00 AM »

Make sure you do a full bit-for-bit comparison between the 2 nand dumps and do not flash anything until you are 100% sure your dump is okay. Do not just rely on degraded to say the nand is okay.

Either use a hex editor and compare the 2 nands for differences or use a command prompt and type (obviously changing nand1 and nand2 to be what you called your 2 nands):-
fc nand1.bin nand2.bin

Author Topic: Before I Do A Xenon Jtag..some Q's I Have (Read 123 times)