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[brando56894]

I believe those are the only two spots. You may have to use a tiny drill bit to make a small hole in the top connecttionm I actually drilled the bottom one through and soldered it like that.

[danny616]

QUOTE(danny616 @ Jan 2 2010, 11:59 AM)

damn can you possibly take a picture of that.

bump!

[red_ring_of_box]

go here for the alternate points:

http://forums.xbox-s...o...699075&st=0

there are 3 spots for it one of which require your to scrape down the motherboard to get to the copper you can solder to the point. the first are obvious db1f1 and FT1u both of those I screwed up though I managed to solder to the lifted trace on FT1u  and still make it work because db1f1 is a test point on the board and only goes through the board to the bottom and leads to the southbridge. You can see the point Chaosplt was talking about in post 13 in that topic(this is the point you will need to scrape down to get to the copper). My advice is to get some new solder on ft1u and once you get a good connection on that point with the diode be sure to super glue it, otherwise if you lift the trace just solder to that then super glue it after confirming that it works.

Also you should add a 1/4 watt 330 ohm resistor like the diagram below suggests.



And DON'T use stranded wire, something I wish I was told when I first started this.

Edit: after reading your post again I've got to say sorry I don't know of any alternate top spots for db1f1, I think after that they are all based on the bottom, but that shouldn't be a problem because I used 24 gauge wire to solder my points and without super glue they still didn't touch the chassis of the 360, though you should still super glue the points so they don't break off.

[brando56894]

I tried to take a picture of it but they werent coming out good. I just took it apart and looked again and I actually used DB1F1, I just stuck a tiny drill bit in there and gave it a few twists until it exposed the copper and soldered it. Just trying the basic was wasnt working since the wire would always fall off so my father and I had to figure out a way to make it work.

Im assuming it works since I couldn't get the LPT reader to work and have to wait for my usb reader to get here.

[red_ring_of_box]

QUOTE(danny616 @ Jan 2 2010, 09:10 PM)

thanks for the help. but i should use a resistor on that point? i never heard about that. these pics dont show it.

I was told that it this was a new diagram I guess the 330 ohm makes it more reliable or something... anyway it doesn't really affect anything as I am using an xbr system right now. Just thought I'd give you a heads up.

[red_ring_of_box]

I don't think so, the guy who posted about it said he had been experimenting with different resistor value and that he did not have success with 100 ohm resistors, so he found that 330 ohm was the best resistor value to have. Good luck man

[brando56894]

AFAIK the 330 ohm resistors are only needed for xenon boards, all other boards use 2 switching diodes. I didnt need them for my falcon.

[red_ring_of_box]

ah ok whatever works then I'm just letting you know that I have it wired in and everything works fine as well.

[iceman2048]

Apologies for the bump, can anyone confirm if the db1f1 connection is merely on the surface or goes all the way through the board? Thanks again.

[Spegs12]

So people when have problems with RRoD and E79 on falcons after the XBR flash. Adding a 330 ohm resistor helped. Even some around 470 ohm.

[Haruno]

I may have done something wrong here.
I took a drill bit and drilled into db1f1 for a bit. Didn't see copper for a while so i used a slightly larger drill bit (1.5 mm) until i saw copper. I soldered the wire in and now my box won't turn on.

[GTRagnarok]

QUOTE(Haruno @ Feb 13 2010, 10:56 PM)

I may have done something wrong here.
I took a drill bit and drilled into db1f1 for a bit. Didn't see copper for a while so i used a slightly larger drill bit (1.5 mm) until i saw copper. I soldered the wire in and now my box won't turn on.

I used a very small flathead screwdriver to hand drill the point (the hole fits inside the white circle). I didn't really go that deep at all until I saw some copper along the edge of the hole. Were you cleaning the spot as you go? Managed to get just a bit of solder to stick but that was enough.


EDIT: Oh, I guess that means I can confirm that you don't have to drill all the way through db1f1. There's definitely some copper along the edge of the hole within the white circle. I wish I had some pictures, but it's all hot glued up now.

[Br0k3R]

this should help:

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=699075

[Haruno]

QUOTE(GTRagnarok @ Feb 14 2010, 01:42 AM)

I used a very small flathead screwdriver to hand drill the point (the hole fits inside the white circle). I didn't really go that deep at all until I saw some copper along the edge of the hole. Were you cleaning the spot as you go? Managed to get just a bit of solder to stick but that was enough.
EDIT: Oh, I guess that means I can confirm that you don't have to drill all the way through db1f1. There's definitely some copper along the edge of the hole within the white circle. I wish I had some pictures, but it's all hot glued up now.

Yea I was using a precision screwdriver at first but it wasn't making much progress so I had to take out the smallest drill bit i had, 1.5mm.

I saw some copper around the edges when the white part peeled off but I assumed it wasn't enough.

It's strange how people say they can drill through all of it and they arent having issues?

Maybe this isn't the reason why my box isn't turning in....