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[jayman81]

QUOTE(vintage_guitar @ Dec 7 2009, 03:27 PM)

No, you have to solder. Sorry. However, it is easier to take the motherboard out of the chassis, and stand it upright. "Poke" the wire through the front pad by heating the pad on the back of the motherboard with the iron while you poke the through the front. Then clip excess that's sticking out with toenail clippers, so you dont create a short when putting it back into the chassis

I guess I'll wait I'm not going to brick a functional box. Thanks for your insight guys.

[360player]

(IMG:http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad310/sabbath_dude2/Final.jpg)
So when I'm looking at the color points for the pins are you talking about those being the front side of the plug and we solder on the back of those pins? Or are those the solder points on the backside of the plug and just solder using the picture and the solder points on the LPT25?
I just got done making mine and got it all taped up but I think I did it bass akwards. I used the colors and pin numbers from the backside of the plug or on the side you solder. Cause now if I turn it around its opposite of where they are supposed to be, I think.

Damn I'm usually really good about following instructions to the T but I think I boned this one up.

This post has been edited by 360player: Dec 8 2009, 03:44 AM

[FalconLTD]

From what ive gathered - This method applies to the SPI(LPT) section of the hack. So it can be used for all 360's. What is different between the various models (and this hack) is the jtag wiring part of the hack (3 wires connecting 6 points).

[360player]

This is how I did mine is this correct? Sorry for the iphone picture.
(IMG:http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx86/wildturkeyone/IMG_0271.jpg)
The orange one is the #11 pin on the top.

This post has been edited by 360player: Dec 8 2009, 03:59 AM

[360player]

Ok I have everything hooked up correctly and soldered to the board, now I have to go figure out how to get the key off of the Falcon thing.

[ShinseiRyu]

First setup got tons of errors.  Thinking it could be the fact that I had a hard time soldering at 8W on my battery powered iron (had lots of trouble getting some of the points to melt on the board, finished the job with my outlet powered 15W radioshack iron), but I also had not installed the diode.

Trying now with the diode installed and so far only got one error 250.  If I get more errors I will probably open the 360 back up and resolder all the points with my 15W iron.

[ShinseiRyu]

QUOTE(ShinseiRyu @ Dec 8 2009, 08:05 AM)

First setup got tons of errors.  Thinking it could be the fact that I had a hard time soldering at 8W on my battery powered iron (had lots of trouble getting some of the points to melt on the board, finished the job with my outlet powered 15W radioshack iron), but I also had not installed the diode.

Trying now with the diode installed and so far only got one error 250.  If I get more errors I will probably open the 360 back up and resolder all the points with my 15W iron.

Still got errors in normal mode then I tried Bi-directional mode and still got errors.  Finally tried ECP mode and managed to make 3 dumps in a row with only one bad block (in the same place, 0xB everytime).  All three dumps matched in Total Commander, injected KV and config into xbreboot and now my 360 is running happily.

Was also getting full errors after 0x200 until I switched to ECP mode.

[b32b]

what tool do you suggest I use to cut the hole in the xbox for the ethernet coupler?

[Broka]

Would these resistors be fine?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=341564

[CrimsonIdol]

b32b: Use a metal cutter/heavy wire cutter. Basically anything that won't leave tons of metal filings on the 360 motherboard (like a hack saw or similar would)

Make the hole just a tad too small (a couple of millimeters will do) and make some "tracks" in the coupler. That way it stays put when you plug and unplug the wire. That, or just glue the damn thing to the inside of the case

[ShinseiRyu]

QUOTE(b32b @ Dec 9 2009, 02:38 AM)

what tool do you suggest I use to cut the hole in the xbox for the ethernet coupler?

Since I had the motherboard out of the casing I went ahead and used my dremel to cut a hole.  Just make sure that you blow all of the metal shavings out and double check to make sure none are left in there.  

Heavy wire cutter or metal cutter would definitely be cleaner though.

[Martinchris23]

QUOTE(sabbath_dude @ Dec 7 2009, 06:55 PM)

Mine was braided. But as Martinchris said, solid core is a better option. However I'm not too sure you'll find many cat5 cables that use solid core (although I could be wrong). Working with braided wire isn't a big challenge for this project though. The solder points are all relatively large and easy to access. When preparing the wire for soldering just expose the ends, twist, apply a small amount of flux, then use your soldering iron to apply a little bit of fresh solder. This will solder all the braids together and will make the job of attaching to the mothorboard much much easier.

You're right - most UTP cables are multi-strand. If you buy UTP cable from a reel for networking however, it will more than likely be solid core (since you'd be using a punch tool for pushing the cables into sockets). If you went for a 'make your own cable', there would still be work needed to either crimp a LAN plug to use with a coupler or go for something like this : http://www.maplin.co...e...O&U=strat15

It's swings and roundabouts really!

QUOTE(Broka @ Dec 9 2009, 01:40 PM)

Would these resistors be fine?

http://www.maplin.co...ModuleNo=341564

Maplin codes:

M330R for 330Ohm resistors (x3)
M100R for LPT resistors (x5)
QL80B for Switching Diode (may be needed)

Maplins is nice n convenient, however if you want quantity I recommend Farnell components. I just ordered 200 1N4148 switching diodes for 1.1p each. They also offer free delivery on all goods (arrived by UPS next day).

http://uk.farnell.com/

I used RapidOnline for my stripboard and 2x13 way IDC sockets (for Olimex USB LPT-2148 header).

Here's a pic of my top grill modified for the Olimex USB Header:


And again with it attached (ignore the trailing wire, it's so I can dump/write to other 360s!)

[jayman81]

QUOTE(Martinchris23 @ Dec 9 2009, 01:46 PM)

You're right - most UTP cables are multi-strand. If you buy UTP cable from a reel for networking however, it will more than likely be solid core (since you'd be using a punch tool for pushing the cables into sockets). If you went for a 'make your own cable', there would still be work needed to either crimp a LAN plug to use with a coupler or go for something like this : http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Module...O&U=strat15

It's swings and roundabouts really!
Maplin codes:

M330R for 330Ohm resistors (x3)
M100R for LPT resistors (x5)
QL80B for Switching Diode (may be needed)

Maplins is nice n convenient, however if you want quantity I recommend Farnell components. I just ordered 200 1N4148 switching diodes for 1.1p each. They also offer free delivery on all goods (arrived by UPS next day).

http://uk.farnell.com/

I used RapidOnline for my stripboard and 2x13 way IDC sockets (for Olimex USB LPT-2148 header).

Here's a pic of my top grill modified for the Olimex USB Header:
(IMG:http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/2674/img4359e.jpg)

And again with it attached (ignore the trailing wire, it's so I can dump/write to other 360s!)
(IMG:http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/2812/img4360n.jpg)

That's sweet design Martin! I wish it would be easier for solderless dump/write.. Do you have videos on this on how this is setup?

This post has been edited by jayman81: Dec 9 2009, 08:40 PM

[Martinchris23]

QUOTE(jayman81 @ Dec 9 2009, 07:38 PM)

That's sweet design Martin! I wish it would be easier for solderless dump/write.. Do you have videos on this on how this is setup?

Umm, no !    It was just something I knocked together to make use of the IDC sockets on the USB Header board. It seemed pointless in keep removing it etc and still maintained functionality of the HDD.

What I did:

I bought
2 x 26 WAY STRAIGHT BOXED HEADER RC
1 x 64 X 95MM STRIPBOARD (RC)

(I actually bought 4 of the headers as I had enough stripboard to make another one.

I then connected the headers to the USB and passed the pins through the stripboard (so I knew what pins I was going to use.

I got a knife and cut the tracks in 3 places

one cut down the centre of the pinheaders (so they weren't joined)
two cuts to split the pins on each header - so each pin was individual and not joined to its neighbour.

I then soldered the pins to the stripboard.

Finally soldered the wires to the correct pins on the underside of it.

I passed the wires through one of the small holes in the casing and soldered them onto the board. I left myself a fair amount of wire (about 30cm) to allow for adjustment and future disassembly.

I cut two strips out of the grill to fit the header sockets and used epoxy adhesive to glue it to the stripboard (it's really handy both surfaces have holes since it gave the adhesive something to grip to.

It really was an unplanned fit tho - the assembly is off centre although I don't think it makes all that much difference.


Just taken some more pics:

Closer look topside:


Underside:


End view (low profile to avoid contact with chassis:


if it would help others I might make another one and this time take pics along the way

[stoatie_weasel]

@sabbath_dude Thanks man! Followed your Tutorial. Kept cable really short. soldering perfect after I dumped the 12W and went back to my trusty 35W. Dumped twice correct flash config and no errors? Is this possible? I read lots of posts with read errors. Thanks again.